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Tune, resistors and tcc

Here is a couple but these are on the older units. ours have pins on both sides. one is visible by opening the hood and looking down at it, the other one is on the opposite side which is the pin on mine that popped out like a button. I popped off the rubber cap and stuck a small screw driver in on the pin and forced it inward. it snapped in (flush with the valve) and started working.


 
I found them.. I'm going to attach the pictures if I can the top one looks like it is flush with the nipple that it goes down the middle of... The bottom one looks like it is way in
 
From the video I just watched it looks like the top one is where it belongs... The bottom one it looks like it is either pushed away in or there's no pin in there at all
 
Here is how mine is. Look the same as yours unless mine is wrong too lol. Others may have more knowledge on this. I know the bottom one is the one I pushed in as it was sticking out after I did my brake job

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With them being same on the two trucks, seems like that’s not it.
I would love to inspect the caliper guides on both sides.

The other thing, press a dent brandon’s rule through osha on mandatory vax for company of 150 or more got the legal freeze put on it. Maybe take some of this weekend and put together info on that to come into the company with incase that gets them to rethink their eagerness to force the shot.
 
Having tire shop do an alignment today as I write..and there going to flush and fill the brake system while it's here.. gave me a really good deal to do both cause old friend was manager and the new guys remember me from him ( glad to get a brake)..I'm off Sun ,Mon and Tues so gonna change the mismatched brake line then.. @Will L. if I get the new calipers from rock Auto I could ship these ones to you to check out.. might save others some trouble in the future if you find a problem with them.
 
Idk about a design problem. But look at the are where the caliper pins are /pads slides against the cast bracket. That area should be perfectly flat and rust free. If the pads don’t have perfect surface, the pad will hang up.

Remember there is mega hydraulic pressure the caliper forces against the pad to make them pinch the rotor. But you release the pedal and pressure should instantly go to zero. Then just the rotor spinning “wiggles” the pads away from it, there is no big spring that pulls the caliper open or that pulls the pads away like shoes in a drum. So if there is any kind of resistance to the pads sliding away- they will hang up and can create some friction on it.

So the normal procedure for this is simple inspection. Jack up front axle, spin tire by hand and have someone apply brakes. Wheels should stop. You hold the smallest amount of pressure against the tire and when they release the pedal the tire should easily turn with just a finger rotating the tire.

you then remove tires and... hang on calling you now since you just posted.
 
I happen to know this something.... Keep in mind I'm not saying this is the cause of the problem... But it goes along with y'all saying about the problems with the caliper pins..
After I left the garage today I looked under the truck, one of the driver's side caliper pins wass 3/4 of the way out.... The other one was loose... About the same on the passenger side except the one that was sticking out some it was only about halfway out.. only holding in by a thread or two
 
Time to baby it home, pull the front wheel and get that fixed asap! when you pull the wheels take some photos of the pins and post them up. it sounds like your about to have a caliper fall off that possibly can cause a wreck.
 
I will in morning.. I had to drive it to work.. I won't get home till after 10pm. And it's cold as hell...I'll be careful getting it home though
 
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