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Tune, resistors and tcc

This is the one I have. Now looking it over a little, I see there is no air bleed on this unit. Must just crack the filter loose a couple of turns then let it fill.
View attachment 67429View attachment 67430

would this be a good candidate for a pre filter ? At one time I checked with NAPA for the filters for this and they do have them available.

YES. Good option.
The filter itself should ideally be 30 to 50 microns (cant see what filter you have).
The ffm filter is 5 microns. This will be extend the ffm filter life a lot, and flow good doing it.
You can also screw in aftermarket heater into the other hole.

@Stoney that looks original to me. I doubt you have a tune in it. Imo you should wait in that. Dont mess with a tune till some extra cash is available. Adding boost or any power is only gonna burn more fuel and if you are not towing heavy to put food on the table, avoid that till you get ahead on cash.
 
@ Will L wasn't gonna do a tune..I thought it may have already had one done by the prior owner because it won't run with a resistor in the pmd...and guys had said on another thread that the only way they would run without a resistor was if they had a tune done ....I had thought maybe I some how messed up the tune and that was why the truck kept getting all the sluggish symptoms
 
@MrMarty51 what is the make/ part # for that fuel filter assembly? Is the plug coming off of it for a heater or?

@WarWagon what heater do you recommend for adding to an existing filter? Would love to know if there's something a bit more refined than a redneck version of just wrapping a filter in heat tape and foil 🙃

I also agree that the inline screen filters aren't the best, but I use them because I don't have a heated pre- filter option currently. Perhaps my line of thinking is flawed, but a paper media filter seems more prone to freezing than the screen filter. Plus the screen filters are cheap, can be swapped out in minutes, and can be blown out with a compressor and tossed in the back seat to be re- used in a pinch. I'd love to install a heated water separator element pre LP, but in lieu of that any filter is better than nothing.
 
@MrMarty51 what is the make/ part # for that fuel filter assembly? Is the plug coming off of it for a heater or?
The wires off of the bottom of the filter is for the heater element.
I too have thought about chopping a hole in the front left of the box floor and installing that unit through the hole, down lower so that it would not hang below the frame rails. Then have a mount, remove the bolts, lift the filter assembly to service it the drop it back down and bolt it back to the mounting tab. Also on the tank side plumb in an option for filling the filter then on the LP side of one of the outlet ports, install a vent cock that can be opened for bleeding.
I have had this filter setting on the table for several years, everyonce in a while I think I should get a plan in My head and get that thing mounted up.
Oh yeah, the heater is thermostatically controlled but I now dont remember at what temps it comes on then shuts off again.
 
I'd have to look for it. But I read in a thread about someone else's truck.. it was just recently... I remember it being said that it wasn't necessary because the tune was controlling the fuel and air and such. I'll look for it.. it's possible that I didn't understand what he was saying
 
what heater do you recommend for adding to an existing filter?

Moving to Phoenix, Arizona. Seriously ask @ak diesel driver.

I would use the heater kit for the CAT filter head myself, but, I never needed it HERE... :angelic: I just note that it can be taken for granted. Gelling, that normal heaters would solve, wax plugs the filter and stops the engine. Some RAM Cummins had problems when the factory left the heater turned off in the first filter... Darn software settings.
 
So the heater issue isn't as big a deal for us because they are pretty aggressive about winter fuel. Hadn't driven my truck alot recently and filled up yesterday, it was obvious that they had switched. Truck starts harder when warm again.
 
If the po installed a tune, sometimes the only way to tell is to open the little metal door that's held on by a torx screw on the bottom side of the PCM. you'll see a removable chip in there. if it's blue and has a sticker with the 4 letters that match the code on the sticker of the PCM, then it hasn't been messed with. if it's something else like a black chip then it has a tune installed.

Here is what the OE chip looks like that would be something that's untouched..
1633664335119.png
 
If the po installed a tune, sometimes the only way to tell is to open the little metal door that's held on by a torx screw on the bottom side of the PCM. you'll see a removable chip in there. if it's blue and has a sticker with the 4 letters that match the code on the sticker of the PCM, then it hasn't been messed with. if it's something else like a black chip then it has a tune installed.

Here is what the OE chip looks like that would be something that's untouched..
View attachment 67465

On a 94 and 95 it’ll look like the one in your picture. It can be taken out and tuned, or replaced with another one. 96 through 2000, and up to 2002 on some rigs don't have the removable chip. You have to tune or replace the whole PCM.
 
Yup. 96 and up won't have a removable chip. on the 94-95's the actual chip can be reprogrammed but you have to have a special programmer and a uv light. the uv light is how they erase the chip.
 
This is the one I have. Now looking it over a little, I see there is no air bleed on this unit. Must just crack the filter loose a couple of turns then let it fill.
View attachment 67429View attachment 67430

would this be a good candidate for a pre filter ? At one time I checked with NAPA for the filters for this and they do have them available.

Looks like a Racor diesel water separating filter they use in marine applications.
 
Looks like a Racor diesel water separating filter they use in marine applications.
I got it off of ebay. At the time there was quite a few of them selling for a very reasonable price.
I didnt know if filters would be available for it so I took the entire unit to NAPA and they matched on to it.
IIRC, the filter that is there does not have a brand or a number on it. 🤷‍♂️😹
 
Ok I think I f***Ed up. Got pissed off at work when leaving tomorrow...got in the truck, circled the little parking area oto get on the road, and floored it!!! Good thing/bad thing..... Truck ran awsome all the way home as in it didn't feel like it was bogging or dragging at all!! However, I stopped at the post office to check p.o. box and when I backed out of the parking spot spot and then shifted to drive, truck didn't go anywhere when I pushed the pedal it acted like it was in neutral..after a couple seconds it started to go... didn't buck or jerk or anything, just stared moving although it did feel like it was slipping. Till it got rolling good
 
Me to..I don't know what happened yet, I've had to do so pretty fast take offs before( not on purpose ) never did any damage...Im gonna do obvious today and check fluid...and check under the truck and see if it's leaking or anything. Buddy has a couple spare tranny's for a 97' (4l80e's). Don't know if they came out of diesels or gassers or if that even matters... Worse case scenario I can get one from him.
 
I noticed something. When I drive it's really hard to get it up to high RPMs.. it's weird cuz all the dragging feeling is gone... But it doesn't want to take off and once it gets going the RPMs stay low I was just doing 65 and my RPMs were only sitting at 2,000
 
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