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Truck Makeover

Nope, I don't drink much coffee anymore. A couple at breakfast.

Sorry my reply is late, I've been away for awhile and come home to bale, I'll be away again for a bit.
 
As of Monday the truck is going again, took 3 weeks for the solenoids to get here. Then yesterday the turbo lube line sprung a leak and made a mess. And today the FFM water drain hose split below the T, there wasn't enough hose left so I got some new 1/4" hose and decided I might as well finish my FTB mod. No pics as there are lots of the Walking J kit.

Truck is running well again. I will take a pic of the trans xmember and post it. I should have taken a before and after of the pan, it straightened out nice with the press. Can't even tell it was pushed up over an inch.
 
Here are a couple pics of the trans cross member, it's hard to see but the first one is bent back about 1/2"
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This one shows it bent up a good inch.
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It works like nothing happened, it hit the pan in about the beat place it could have. Any where else would likely have damaged the valve body. The reverse servo escaped damage as well, with it may have just touched it's cover.
 
Actually at the moment, no, but later that night and for the next few days I was mad at myself.

I was high centered so the dog and I started the 2 1/2 mile walk home, about 1 mile from home one of my brothers comes by and rolls his window down. He says, "out for a walk"? The A-hole :hihi:
 
NVW said:
Actually at the moment, no, but later that night and for the next few days I was mad at myself.

I was high centered so the dog and I started the 2 1/2 mile walk home, about 1 mile from home one of my brothers comes by and rolls his window down. He says, "out for a walk"? The A-hole :hihi:
Click to expand...

Well,he wasn't lying...was he:hihi:
He just made an acurate observation.
 
I just replaced my upper ball joints and front brake pads, lower ball joints will come later as they got me the wrong ones. Mine are riveted, they ordered press ins.
 

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Oh I remember that chore very well.. Fun Fun. The lowers are a treat. You just can't snip off the rivet head and punch em out because the holes are bigger in the arm and smaller in the joint so it creates a shoulder that wont drive down through.
 
Was that driving them downward? Because I was going to drill from the bottom up, and drive them up. That way I don't have to remove the axle shaft.
 
Yeah I had things completely apart, knuckles, brakes all of it.

What I did was flushed off the rivet heads with the smoke wrench, drilled a 1/8 hole through then torched down through each rivet blowing out the center to at least one edge so they would collapse as you drive them out with a roll pin punch.

I'd hate to try and work around the axle like that...

added: there is a shoulder top and bottom due to the differences in hole diameters of the joint and arm. The joint slides into the arm.
 
I did the tops without removing the axles, I'll give the lowers a try and report back. It may be a cluster Fluck. I'll let it be known.

Each upper and brakes were about 1 1/2 hr. per side.
 
Some guys hack off the ball joint taper with a sawzall. The little window in the knuckle will give you just enough room for the blade to cycle. Otherwise you must remove the axle. The joint points down so you have to push the knucle down a good 2" to clear. By then the back side of the joint runs into the axle drive cup.
 
The joint points down so you have to push the knucle down a good 2" to clear. By then the back side of the joint runs into the axle drive cup.
Click to expand...
..that is if you just pop out the joint with a pickle fork,.. no worky that way.
 
If the ball joint is cut of I should be able to get it done. I don't like any extra work if I can help it:).

I installed my Racor a couple days ago. It's mounted on the deck frame behind the cab. Changing the filter will be easy.
 

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Yes I am. I was going to install my fuel pressure gauge today but the supplied fitting for the gauge is the wrong size.:mad2:
 
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