Take it as a full unit. I have used this place in the past to straighten and balance the driveshaft. With new U-Joints and new center bearing I was at $500.
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Transmission lock up....
- Thread starter Tovar
- Start date
- Staff
- #22
It needs balanced. Take both shafts in and make sure to have them marked how the slip splines go together. The 3 joints MUST be in unison or else it will destroy the driveline from the vibrations.
For brake parts I will use ONLY RAYBESTOS from now on. I went through hell in my Suburban with problems due to AC Delco(yes, OEM) durastop brake shoes on my Suburban. After 3 sets I bought a set of Raybestos and no more problems.
O.K. I did a little self education. Correct me if I'm wrong. This driveshaft is in two parts held in the middle by a carrier bearing that is bolted to the upper frame. Rear of the carrier bearing, the shaft is solid. Forward of the carrier bearing, the the shaft can be separated. I never separated this part of the drive shaft. It has a boot on it, and will not seperate on its own. From my understanding, this is the part that causes an unbalanced driveshaft if it is seperated and put back on improperly. Since I did not seperate, only exchanged the three u-joints, it should be fine to reinstall. No damage was done by the e-brake lock up because it occurred just rolling out of the garage. I didn't move, but a couple of feet. If the lock up occurred at speed, going down the road, one can imagine the damage... That's why I'm not going to reinstall the E-brake. I'll just chalk the wheels, if I ever need to. So, I'm I correct in saying the driveshaft is good to reinstall?
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Imagine if you removed the middle ujoint. Now the front drive shaft stays put and you spin the rear part 180° and re-assemble.
This will destroy the driveshaft, and often the differential, transmission (or transfer case if 4wd). This mis timing can occur at any of the 3 locations.
My STRONG AS I POSSIBLY CAN SUGGESTION is take it all to the shop WW recommend (because there are hacks out there and quality counts) - have them do a new carrier bearing while they have it and do a complete balance.
No one likes to pay for this- but usually ya only have to do it every 250,000 miles.
If you install what you have and 1 is out, especially the front link, you might not even feel it. Then 15,000 miles later and you are wondering why you need a transmission. So you buy a transmission and diy it, at least R&R part. New trans goes in, and it wiles out in another 15,000 miles. Or maybe your lucky and it ruins the rear diff instead- usually in the same amount of miles.
I’m sorry I didn’t see this and warn you before you yanked it out- but glad I can warn you before you spend thousands of dollars and still have to get this done later when it will need all new ujoints at that time also.
This will destroy the driveshaft, and often the differential, transmission (or transfer case if 4wd). This mis timing can occur at any of the 3 locations.
My STRONG AS I POSSIBLY CAN SUGGESTION is take it all to the shop WW recommend (because there are hacks out there and quality counts) - have them do a new carrier bearing while they have it and do a complete balance.
No one likes to pay for this- but usually ya only have to do it every 250,000 miles.
If you install what you have and 1 is out, especially the front link, you might not even feel it. Then 15,000 miles later and you are wondering why you need a transmission. So you buy a transmission and diy it, at least R&R part. New trans goes in, and it wiles out in another 15,000 miles. Or maybe your lucky and it ruins the rear diff instead- usually in the same amount of miles.
I’m sorry I didn’t see this and warn you before you yanked it out- but glad I can warn you before you spend thousands of dollars and still have to get this done later when it will need all new ujoints at that time also.
Even without the "incident" balancing and straightening the drive shaft can be needed over time. It looked weird, but, the first two u-joints were "out of time" on my 1993 and supposed to be.
Again, I don't think your plan on gutting the parking brake is a good one as this problem happened once in 22 years. You can't chalk the wheels at 35 MPH. Further that wouldn't be enough on my driveway let alone some of the extreme grades around Arizona. (You don't get to choose where you breakdown say on said grade.) Look up Torque Lock where the parking pawl won't come out due to a grade one should have used a parking brake, let it roll onto the brake, then shift to park. Operators have been run over by their own vehicles due to "park" in the trans INOP and/or parking brake failures. I will leave off my rant about people's stubborn refusal to use the dammed parking brake on extreme grades.
Again, I don't think your plan on gutting the parking brake is a good one as this problem happened once in 22 years. You can't chalk the wheels at 35 MPH. Further that wouldn't be enough on my driveway let alone some of the extreme grades around Arizona. (You don't get to choose where you breakdown say on said grade.) Look up Torque Lock where the parking pawl won't come out due to a grade one should have used a parking brake, let it roll onto the brake, then shift to park. Operators have been run over by their own vehicles due to "park" in the trans INOP and/or parking brake failures. I will leave off my rant about people's stubborn refusal to use the dammed parking brake on extreme grades.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I will agree w/ WW on the idea you should repair and reinstall it.
But people choose based on their own opinions, so I would say if you remove it- definitely keep the old parts in a box somewhere.
Buying the parts you need now might set you back a hundred bucks, but your price goes up more if you end up having to fix it all from a ticket.
WW obviously knows the ADOT regs from hauling, but I know any rig, commercial or not (even little hondas) can get stopped and looked at by hiway patrol here, and they don’t allow roadside repairs. Here it will be red tagged and towed.
Hummers (Hummer and hmmwv owners know what I am about to say) use a normal front caliper, and funky ones on the rears that incorporates parking brakes. They are 10 times the hassle and cost. I have been super tempted to replace my rear stock units with the front ones and eliminate tons of problems. But the impound yard fees and tow bill for it being done out weighs the reward.
But people choose based on their own opinions, so I would say if you remove it- definitely keep the old parts in a box somewhere.
Buying the parts you need now might set you back a hundred bucks, but your price goes up more if you end up having to fix it all from a ticket.
WW obviously knows the ADOT regs from hauling, but I know any rig, commercial or not (even little hondas) can get stopped and looked at by hiway patrol here, and they don’t allow roadside repairs. Here it will be red tagged and towed.
Hummers (Hummer and hmmwv owners know what I am about to say) use a normal front caliper, and funky ones on the rears that incorporates parking brakes. They are 10 times the hassle and cost. I have been super tempted to replace my rear stock units with the front ones and eliminate tons of problems. But the impound yard fees and tow bill for it being done out weighs the reward.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
I once was sent 80 miles north to remove the driveshaft from Ford 9000 4X4 truck. The center carrier bearing had went to crap and destroyed the rubber cushion around it. Brought the shaft back to the shop and replaced the center carrier bearing, pillow and all. U joints was fine. Another 80 mile trip to install it. That truck didnt make it two weeks and again destroyed the CCB. Another 80 mile trip and brought the shaft back to the shop. Looking it over real good and I could see no reason why this was happening. I told the shop super that it needed to go to the machine shop to get checked. The shop balanced the shaft, it was out. They also installed new u joints and center carrier.
Another 80 mile trip north to install the shaft.
Never had another problem with the drive shaft on that truck.
Another 80 mile trip north to install the shaft.
Never had another problem with the drive shaft on that truck.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Yup. Got spun 180. Happens all the time, people just don’t know.
I see this same story about once a year on the hummer forum- but in those the vibration is usually noticed because the differential solid solid mounted so vibrations all the way from engine through both differentials is felt through the frame.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
It will be money well spent. U Joints’ll love it much longer too, along wit splines, differential and transmission or T~Case.
Got drive shaft back. Installed it. Drove it. Seems like everything is good to go... Started out thinking it was a broken transmission, and turns out it was a broken e-brake. Leasons learned: broken trans won't lock up the rear end, and when dealing with multiple shafted drive lines, make alignment marks on both sides of all areas that come apart. So as, to put it back on the same way it came off (assuming it was in balance in the first place). Thanks to all for input, and pointing me in the right direction.