• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Tire Ply Ratings

D

dka99burb

Member
Messages
650
Reaction score
4
Location
Reidsville, NC
I have found some used BFG A/T KO in the 285/70/17 size I need. But they are D rated, not E. I really like the stiffness of E rated tires but I don't have cash for a new set. What do you guys think about using the D rated ones on my 1500HD? I don't tow often or very heavy. The heaviest ones I tow are my 7x16 enclosed trailer or a flatbed single car trailer.
Thoughts?
 
The D rated tires are going to serve you well. I wouldn't waste the money on E rated unless you're fully loaded to the maximum tire capacity +50% of the time. The tires have a weight rating for a reason. I've spoken, in depth, with the American Tire & Wheel Association on this issue for multiple sizes from truck tires to semi tires. Keep in mind the capacity also increases as you increase air pressure (higher than stated on the sidewall) as long as you decrease speed. My charts are at work right now, so I can't give you specifics. I might have the chart I keep in my truck. I'll see if I do to give you an idea of what I'm talking about.

Personally, I run D rated and my truck/trailer combination (with a slide in camper in the bed) grosses +13,200 lbs. Most of the weight is on the truck with that load. I put 65 psi in my 285s. Three hour trip, one way.
 
Further: For example - 285/75R16 @ 35 psi single good up to 2130 lbs. per tire (this is minimum psi and is where I run mine when unloaded.

same tire @ 40 psi - good up to 2340
45 psi - 2540
50 psi - 2755 (typical load limit C tire)
55 psi - 2925
60 psi - 3110
65 psi - 3305 (typical load limit D tire)
70 psi - 3465
75 psi - 3635
80 psi - 3750 (typical load limit E tire)

My chart at work, though, is the one that takes speed into consideration, which is a major factor. The slower you drive, the higher you can go on weight. As you can see, though, the D rated tire at 65 psi is good for 3305 lbs. per tire all through it's useful life.

I recommend you weigh your loaded rear axle if it's still in question, and determine what is right for you, based on what you learn.
 
I don't go slow. :smilewinkgrin:
The non-rated A/T tires that the PO put on there are too soft. I am running them at their max of 42psi and they still feel like sponges. I believe they are hurting my MPG #s due to this. They look low all the time. Heck, when I bought it, he had them set at 32psi and I was having to use the gas pedal to keep hwy speed going down the mountain! :WTF:
 
Your stock tires were load e 245/75r16 w/ about # 3100 rating. A load D 285 passes that rating so I wouldn't worry unless you plan to up the weight you carry by alot.

Source Unknown
 
Thanks for the feedback guys. I am going after them tomorrow if he agrees. Then I can get finally crank my front end up and install my H2 wheels!
 
Before you crank can you measure how much bolt you have sticking out toward the head? I am curious how much my 1500hd is cranked.

Source Unknown
 
265 75 16 BFG AT KO's 1998 K2500 here.

D rated.

Run at 50 PSI as per the door placard for the fronts. Rears should be 80, but if memory serves 60 is the max tire rating so that's what I run.

truck calls for E rated tires, but I run the BFG's.

No complaints. Rides smooth and stable. Tows our 35' travel trailer with no issues.
 
great white said:
265 75 16 BFG AT KO's 1998 K2500 here.

D rated.

Run at 50 PSI as per the door placard for the fronts. Rears should be 80, but if memory serves 60 is the max tire rating so that's what I run.

truck calls for E rated tires, but I run the BFG's.

No complaints. Rides smooth and stable. Tows our 35' travel trailer with no issues.
Click to expand...

Great! I picked up the other two used ones today. I will try to mount them and install by this weekend.
 
dka99burb said:
Sure. I will try to remember to do that. It will probably be this weekend.
Click to expand...

Thats fine, I am probably going to decrank some and get it riding a bit smoother for a family truck. The weight of the Dmax makes a huge difference on the ride quality. I am going to try airing down some first.
 
No matter which tire you go with I would suggest a paint stripe on the tire, then drive down the road a little bit. Check for even wear pattern across the tire. Too much wear on edges shows too low pressure. Too much wear in center is too high. Even wear across is just right. If you load it down heavy the tires will flex more and change the pressure requirements. The door placard is limit of pressure at loaded capacity with original rubber. Different tires will have different results. Over/under inflation will wear out tires sooner and give worse performance.

As for d vs e rating, do the math on capacity marked on tire and don't exceed that. If loaded heavy and your wear pattern exceeds tire inflation rating to get even wear, then you are overloading them. As mentioned above, you can increase pressure beyond rating and drive slower, but in the event of a wreck hope the officer and lawyer is not thorough when the see an overloaded truck.
 
great white said:
265 75 16 BFG AT KO's 1998 K2500 here.

D rated.

Run at 50 PSI as per the door placard for the fronts. Rears should be 80, but if memory serves 60 is the max tire rating so that's what I run.

truck calls for E rated tires, but I run the BFG's.

No complaints. Rides smooth and stable. Tows our 35' travel trailer with no issues.
Click to expand...

I agree with Will on this matter for a couple reasons. First, the truck manufacturer doesn't manufacture tires. Second, the pressure being higher in the front than the rear doesn't make logical sense if the truck is unloaded. Typically, the heavier the load, the more pressure necessary for the proper "print" on the road surface. The varying pressures are for best wear and performance for that particular tire size, based on the weight it carries.

On the speed:

Metric tires - 71-51 - no change
50-41 - 7% load increase w/o pressure change
40-31 - 9% load increase w/o pressure change
30-21 - 12% load inc. & increase pressure 10 psi
20-11 - 17% load inc. & inc. press. 15 psi
10-6 - 25% load inc. & inc. press. 20 psi
5-2.6 - 45% load inc. & inc. press. 20 psi
2.6-creep - 55% load inc. & inc. press. 20 psi
creep - 75% load inc. & inc. press. 30 psi
stationary - 105% & inc. press 30 psi

I realize most people aren't interested in hearing about anything under 65 mph, however, this information could be useful in the event something really large needed moved for a short trip. DOT might not care, as mentioned above, but it would be arguable in a court of law, if it came down to it. I highly doubt any of us would be on a DOT monitored route with obvious weight overloads that would draw their attention enough to have them stop us. An accident might be another story. To that, I would say you should contact the Tire and Rim Association, tire manufacturer, attorney, whoever, etc. if a failed tire was to blame. Use your own best judgement.
 
I like the paint line method. I usually run mine a hair over inflated since I am constantly going to get feed, fuel, parts, hauling stuff. I can get over 50K miles easy on my 245/75R16 Hancook MT Load E tires with front aired to 48psi and rears in the low 40's. I use kids sidewalk chalk.

Since you have a 6.0L it might not take as much air in the front to balance since you have a lighter engine plus wider tires. When you have slack time hook up to your camper or whatever you might pull and see what it takes to get good contact and just bump up to that # when needed.
 
All great advice. Thanks guys.
I haven't forgot about measuring the adjusters either. Just been working too much to crawl under there yet. :frown2:
 
tanman_2006 said:
Before you crank can you measure how much bolt you have sticking out toward the head? I am curious how much my 1500hd is cranked.

Source Unknown
Click to expand...

Cranked them today. I measured from the 'nut' down to the base of the hex (top side). It was about 1" of thread, not including the thickness of the hex-head.
I then cranked them 9 turns and it measures roughly 1/2" now.

Hope it helps.
 
So I installed the new-used H2 wheels and 285-70s today. Cranked the T-bars 9 rounds. Thinking of dropping back a round our two but I will wait to see if it settles any first. I am going to have to replace a couple steering parts and tighten up the steering box next weekend. So, after that, I should have the final height set and I will get it aligned.
I have my bow tie centers, I just had not stuck them on when I took the pic.
17s 1st Time.jpg
 
Looks alot like our 1500HD (was leroys) stance, maybe yours is a hair higher up front. Not sure if you can tell much from these pics but my tires are ~32.5" and I havent looked to see if I have an add a leaf or block in the rear but it looks like it has a bit more space than yours.



 
Maybe but I wouldnt think so. The axle is a narrow 9.5" 14 bolt semi floater with knuckles and tierods bolted on.

How many leaves do you have? That might help determine the difference in hight.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top