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Things to look for... - chevy motors

Guy is interested in trading a 1988 k2500 SC with 5.7 and auto trans for my 91 F250 EC 460 auto.

I don't think I'm going to be able to trade for much better, however, I don't know if I'm gaining much more than a few mpg's. At least I'm somewhat familiar with the Ford.

Thoughts?
 
As I was reviewing this thread to see if I missed anything, I didn't pick up on the fact that the 4.3 fixes were really quite simple. Not sure what I was thinking when I read those responses, haha.

I'm adding at least $1000 to the Concorde, but also trying to sell the Concorde to see if my choices can go up. I'm currently bouncing between a scion and the full-size chevy's. Regardless of what chevy - it's going to have between 200k-260k miles on it..
 
Unless someone raises a flag that I don't see - I'm planning on checking this out today and hopefully purchasing it: https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/690392578385535/?surface=product_details

If it doesn't show, it's a 2004 Suburban 1500 LT with 250k miles for $2000, 5 minutes from my work. Underneath and body look nearly rust free. Seller says he keeps up on oil changes and it runs good. I'll be listening for any noises coming from the engine, as well as looking for signs of oil underneath and around the back side.

4wd - and he said it works. Struts are 5 years old. I'm asking about the a/c - to see if that works. And I'm a bit bummed on the captains chairs in the middle, but that's resolveable - just not sure how easily. (Right? Surely they didn't have 2 floor stamps for burbs?)
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I liked the second row captains chairs, gave much easier access to the 3rd row

That's good to know and I've heard the same from others. I guess I'm thinking if I have the option to, it'd be nice to start off with that option. I have 2 sets of close friends that have a kid each so it'd be nice if i could use it to transport all of us in a single vehicle. The likely-hood of that actually happening is slim, but just an option.
 
Our 01 was just like that, and having the separate seats for each was great. I remember folding down the third row bench and rolling it out the back when needed. but I don’t remember folding or removing the 2nd row.
The rear cup holders suck- really useless because they spilled so many times.
everything else was nice.
The window regulators go bad about every 100k miles. Spend the extra and buy delco, i learned the hard way. Also change the ac compressor before it blows up and save a lot kf cash that way too. Thats same color even of our 01.

At 250 k miles, it’s all a dice roll when it will take $$ on transmission or engine.
I really like those rigs. Good thing about trans is if you ever have to redo it, then it is set for another 250k.
 
It will likely have some piston slap when stone cold but if oil changes were timely that shouldn't be a problem. I agree with Les, there is better accessibility to the 3rd row.
04 didn't have much trouble with piston slap. Starting in 03 GM changed the piston material slightly, and started coating the skirts. Then late 04 they went to floating wrist pins which just about eliminated it.
 
04 didn't have much trouble with piston slap. Starting in 03 GM changed the piston material slightly, and started coating the skirts. Then late 04 they went to floating wrist pins which just about eliminated it.
Not adding anything of value, just want to point out: GM actually learns form the racing world and improvements of coatings and full float pins solve a daily drive issue giving them less warranties and better mpg, less noise, longer life for the customers and company alike.
Just makes me so happy when this happens :happy:
 
Its all a money thing. suburban Tahoe in 90's will get 14 mpg, 200-2010 will get 16 mpg.
any of the engine trans are very dependable to 200,000 miles, then repair costs start coming up.
depending which engine family 90's vs LS is what work needs doing. the Ls up to 300,000 is still low cost to keep alive.
I agree with barn doors block vision, but is so much easier to load, unload that it was worth it to me.

You really have to plan on spending $1000 in the first year on top of what you notice when you buy it.

Whenever I buy used vehicle, I tell person before test drive "I will test drive it, and as final part of test drive we stop at a smog shop and do the smog test which I pay for if it passes. If it wont pass, you pay for it and I am not buyin it." Amazing how many people fess up to it isn't running right and they just cleared codes because reason X.
I have a 96 Chevy Blazer that has over 298,000 miles on it and it still runs good for a 4.3 L v 6 I just want to convert the electrical shift to a manual shift
 
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