-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
That "quick disconnect" on the thermostat housing
- Thread starter Murph
- Start date
- Staff
- #2
It's actually 1/2" pipe thread, and yes it can be replaced with a regular fitting. The problem is though it is supposed to have a restrictor inside of it to prevent overheating and overpressurizing the heater core. It should have roughly a 3/8" hole inside the fitting for a restrictor. You can purchase a fitting for a H1 HUMMER and it will have the correct size restrictor inside of it and use a 3/4" hose barb connection on it.
Murph
New Member
Thanks Ferm...The Chevy dealers around here are sorely lacking in 6.5 parts, but the Ace hardware has a good brass section, so I'm improvising ):h And I'm a cheap bastid too.
Andy
Andy
nobby
Old Timey Diesel Guy
Go over to the page and search on this it has been well covered especially by Robyn AKA Missy Good Wench. Thank you to her for all her great input over the years.
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=28517
Also the aftermarket connectors as I and others have found are better quality then the GM ones.
Cheers
Nobby
http://www.thedieselpageforums.com/tdpforum/showthread.php?t=28517
Also the aftermarket connectors as I and others have found are better quality then the GM ones.
Cheers
Nobby
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
There is a steel replacement fitting if you want to replace it with OEM style, found in auto part stores in HELP products section.
That said I've been running a pipe thread/barb fitting for over 4 years on the truck; and 2 years on the Burb without negative impact.
That said I've been running a pipe thread/barb fitting for over 4 years on the truck; and 2 years on the Burb without negative impact.
Napa part number:660-1732 . I just snapped one off yesterday and am replacing it with the hoe nipple like the 6.2s have. What kind of a idiot would design a fitting like the quick connect that has NO rubber seal. Now to get the broken off piece out of the crossover. Napa told me they make a special tool to remove the broken piece. Too cheap at this point to buy one.
Should some type of heat sheilding be used on the heater hose or will it survive the turbo heat?
Should some type of heat sheilding be used on the heater hose or will it survive the turbo heat?
Murph
New Member
JMJNet
Recruit
Take out the hose from the quick connect. Which it looks like you did.
Use a socket (not box wrench) and breaker bar and rotate it slowly.
You should be good to go after that if it is not breaking.
Replace it with that one suggested above. The hose has to fit the outer diameter of the metal portion of your old one.
Use a socket (not box wrench) and breaker bar and rotate it slowly.
You should be good to go after that if it is not breaking.
Replace it with that one suggested above. The hose has to fit the outer diameter of the metal portion of your old one.
Tookie
Member
It actually DOES have a little flat type O-ring in it - on my truck, when it
started leaking, I was lucky and able to unscrew it - I replaced it with the
same thing, gave me 180,000 miles before it leaked the first time, I'm
satisfied with that. :smile5:
But on my sons' Firebird, it broke off, and I couldn't get the piece out for
anything - ended up having to drill it out and retap it with a 3/4" NPT tap,
just used brass fittings from Home Depot on his.
EDIT: maybe it was 1/2", I did it a couple of years ago, don't remember for sure
Last edited:
Murph
New Member
Looks can be deceiving
In the pic my hand was blocking the hose from view, it's still connected. I just got back from the parts store with the NPT-hose fitting above, some 5/8 hose and a gallon of Dex Cool. I'll be working on it later when everyone else here goes to sleep.edit - why a socket not a wrench? It has more surface area in contact with the fitting so not to crush it??
Andy
Tookie
Member
A socket will give you more of a rotating motion, the wrench can
apply sideways force and have more of a chance to break it off,
these things are brittle when they age
JMJNet
Recruit
Exactly!!! There were people using wrench and they broke it off. Not me though, I learned it from those who are a little unfortunate.
In other words, the wrench can apply uneven forces to different direction.
In other words, the wrench can apply uneven forces to different direction.
matuva
Tropical 6.5er
the tool is here : http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...156&sspagename=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:31&viewitem=
Rockauto sells 6.2's nipples and the new pattern too. It seems the metal is different, not stainless but better than this crappy kind of brass.
Rockauto sells 6.2's nipples and the new pattern too. It seems the metal is different, not stainless but better than this crappy kind of brass.
mitchedo
Member
Hmmm... The one I bought is NAPA 660-1700, with the same size (by eyeball) restrictor as what's in the original fitting. It screws into the housing fine, but I haven't hooked it up to a hose yet.
matuva
Tropical 6.5er
The 6.2 ACDelco is Part # 1533220, stainless nipple.
The stainless 6.5 is DORMAN 800401 (800-401)
The stainless 6.5 is DORMAN 800401 (800-401)
Murph
New Member
packratt
Active Member
Lisle makes the correct tool for it LIS62200
Ordered mine throught Advance Autoparts about $10
Here's one on e-prey http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...156&sspagename=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:31&viewitem=
Ordered mine throught Advance Autoparts about $10
Here's one on e-prey http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/e...156&sspagename=ADME:B:EOIBSAA:US:31&viewitem=
- Staff
- #19
Unfortunately, Murph, that's pretty common. We took out a friend of mine's after he snapped it off (flush, like yours) by using a cut-down hacksaw blade and cutting some channels into the nipple, right to the threads, then chasing the part out with a cold chisel.
PITA, but it came out.
PITA, but it came out.
Murph
New Member
I saw Matuva post that one a couple of posts up, but I'm afraid of tapping it in what's left of the fitting, only to drive bits of the schitty pot metal into the cooling system.
I think I'll check the parts stores near me for the Lisle tool anyway ):h
edit - one good thing did come out of this...I found the DVM that's been "missing" in my garage for the past month or two.
Andy
Last edited: