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Tahoe motor rebuild

Northern Auto Parts has Perfect Circle rings for $127,Summit wants almost $200 for the same part#. I'll probably get rings timing chain and high volume oil pump from Northern Auto Parts. Its amazing how much prices can vary,it never hurts to shop around.
 
As far as the 1.7 rockers and maxpf engine working well? Last I saw on mikeyvons thread I dont think it has run yet to confirm anything

this is true that it has not been run under fuel to test. But it has been spun with a starter and clearances have been confirmed. I just need some cash to get it going (and a plan for exhaust). Have other priorities right now though.
 
I just bought a Isky Groove O Matic cylinder oring tool from Summit,maybe I'll test it on the 6.2 first ? Also I got a DS4 pump from a friend and removed the head and rotor,and the fuel spill valve,nobody ever mentioned that these pumps have 8 delivery valves compared to the DB2 which has only one. Looks like it would be easy to install a Db2 cam ring which would only need the cam pin hole enlarged. I'm seriously thinking of converting the Tahoe to electronic pump, do any of the trucks use a computer that sits on the fenderwell,and what year would be best,I imagine get the newest one I can find. The DS4 pump cam pin is larger than the DB4 and the DB2 has the smallest one.
 
Got my rings ,timing chain and oil pump today,from Northern Auto Parts. The rings are Perfect circle,but are actually Mahle,for $127,pretty happy about that. Got the oil pan painted Chevy orange.
 
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$127 ??

Got my rings ,timing chain and oil pump today,from Norther Auto Parts. The rings are Perfect circle,but are actually Mahle,for $127,pretty happy about that. Got the oil pan painted Chevy orange.

Damn, that's a great price.

I think Mahle/Clevite "owns" Perfect Circle now, or at least the name. Or in some way, they're all rolled up in bed together.
 
Checked piston stick out on cyl's 1 and 2 its about .013 with the piston centered and .017 with it cocked, with .043 gaskets this should be exactly 22.5 to 1 and.030 squish area,and .026 at the closest if the piston rocks,I don't believe I want to go any closer.
 
Even GM conceded to 21.5 compression ratio in later engines. you may want to go a little lower. Is your gasket measured .043 after being squished down, as I thought it was supposed to compress to .045.
 
I measured a used Felpro at the fire ring,I could easily be off a little. I am a little worried about having so much compression,even more so now that I have seen the DS4 cam lobes, which should be the same as Bill Heath"s So I have a pretty good idea how much fuel he actually has.
 
I really need to get to work on this thing. My wife's getting impatient. Lately I have been swamped with side jobs. Seems like I'm fixing everybody's vehicle except my own. I also need to decide what transmission to use, I'm tempted to use a nv3500,but am considering a 4l80e ,with a full manual shift kit ,or with the computer out of my 92. I believe there will be issues with torsion bar crossmember and the longer 4l80e,compared to the 4l60e . I know somebody that has a 4 door Tahoe with a 6.5 and a 700r4,and he is happy with it.
 
Bought the copper 6.2 head gaskets on Ebay they are only .042 thick. I think they might work with orings and shellac or silicone . Guess I will build some compression now.
 
Got the gaskets the other day,they will not stick into the bore on the 6.5 , and look great. There is instructions with them on how to anneal the copper,don't think I will though.
 
Got a hydroboost,master cyl,and diverter valve,off a 89? chevy trk at the junk yard. Cost $26. Now I can get rid of the vac booster and abs. I will use all copper nickel alloy lines,so they don't rust .
 

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I was going to use the 12.9 allen head bolts for the mains,but couldn't get them past 120 ftlbs. I installed the factory ones at 55 ftlbs +90 degree inner and 48 ftlbs +90 degree outer. The long ones varied any where from 120-140 or more ftlbs. I swapped a few of the soft ones out that couldn't make 130 ftlbs. I decided to stop at 135 ft lbs. Heath Diesel has studs for $ 329.
 
Today I cleaned and installed all the pistons and rods. Also the timing chain and cam. The cam was binding on the cam plug. I fixed that by beating on the cam nose with a rubber mallet to get sufficient end play. The timing chain is nice and tight. The loosest rod bearing clearance is .002, same for the mains. I also got some Eagle 589 wheels with 31-10.50 R 15's 0n them,cost $100. I can't decide if I need to put stiffer valve springs in the heads. I will look into it a little. I think this motor will be tight enough for 5 w 40 synthetic oil . Half thinking of using a stock oil pan , so I don't have to spend so much money for oil.
 
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Very mild bowl port job. Regrinding the valves,they were dished a little.
 

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