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Tahoe motor rebuild

Air hammer on the block defanately helps get out air bubbles.

A nice soupy mix will give you plenty of working time, and be sure to give it plenty of curing time.
 
I was under the impression that thinner mix will have less psi strength when cured,guess I will go for a happy medium of thin but not water thin. I bolted on a head and have the mains torqued down also so hopefully the bores will stay round, and can be just honed.
 
I put a big nut between the chisel and the block,at times I went full throttle but mostly 1/2,plus my air hammer is a small one.
 
Got my Caterpillar turbo today,the bearings are plenty loose,but it should work as a test turbo,and if it works ok I can rebuild it later.
 
I filled the other side of the block yesterday,I mixed it pretty thin and did it in 3 small batches it turned out great,way easier second time around. I didn't have to struggle so hard to get it leveled. I'm considering building a deep sump oil pan, by welding in a extension on the sump part, or putting 2 pans into one,this would help keep the oil cool longer and would be extra insurance if I go with the later style high volume oil pump.
 
Its always nice when things just work like theyre supposed to ;)

Do you have clearance for more oil pan? Dont want to hit the frame. An extra oil cooler would be more efficient in cooling the oil and adding volume.
 
I think there would be enough clearance,I also thought of using 2 stock oil coolers,I'm expecting that the oil will over heat, account of the block filler,although Bill seems to get away with filled blocks,I guess I should have a oil temp gauge,maybe on my remote filter housing.
 
The extra remote cooler would be more efficient, as its a larger gain in surface area to transfer heat to air, as well as more volume. I have found many coolers on Amazon or Summit. So many generic types, but the best are the stacked parallel channel ones, instead of the single tubes that snake back and forth.

I bought one and have yet to install it. Waiting to figure out if I want to add oil temp and pressure gauges on the remote adaptor. Although thats a poor excuse for being lazy as I can just leave those ports plugged until I get gauges or never get gauges
 
I'm with you on the stacked plate style,also not looking forward to all the plumbing in the future.. I'm thinking of using 300 psi push lock hose,and hose clamps for safety. I have used this for fuel lines,and with the right hose nipples it is impossible to pull apart,even with no clamps on.
 
I'm a little on the high side. If it don't work I'll use this motor for racing or pulling.
 
Pictures of the crack,painted it yellow,on the second picture. Also,my Cat turbo.
 

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I'm still debating compression ratio,why does Bill go higher,when every one else recommends lower. I have made a lot of power with the 6.2,but it took an extreme amount of fuel to get there. If high compression is the answer why don't everybody do it ?
 
6.2 turbo said:
I'm still debating compression ratio,why does Bill go higher,when every one else recommends lower. I have made a lot of power with the 6.2,but it took an extreme amount of fuel to get there. If high compression is the answer why don't everybody do it ?
Click to expand...

because generally 6.5 owners dont have a ton of money to fix broken parts that high compression engines produce a lot of times.
 
This is why I'm leery of putting to miuch money in this motor,not something we have a lot of. I often wondered if to much timing is what kills the pistons,wouldn't heat melt them instead of cracking. Every time a cylinder fires ,early with clatter its like hitting that piston with a hammer. I can see this being a issue,especially when cold and having a factory cold advance to boot. With high compression I would need less timing,not sure if I'm on to something or not,but a lot of timing at part throttle and idle is only benifical for smoke and fuel mileage,other than that its pounding away at your pistons and cracking the block.
 
yeah timing melt pistons. it happens to common rail cummins guys all the time because only off the shelf tuning is availble really beseides uber expensive standalone stuff. this leads to stacking which advances the timing dramitically and melted pistons start occuring rapidly
 
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