Sucked Near A Quart of Oil, Temp went to 210.

[MrMarty51]

on the pics you posted I could not tell where you ground out on the pump to match the ports of the backing plate. can you post were you ground into?

on that one that you said wasn't cooling well it kinda looks like the impeller is slightly out on the shaft where the others look like the shaft is protruding out slightly further than the impeller. if there is a larger gap under the impeller to the pump body, that might explain why it's not pushing as much coolant flow as the others. I would think it's not just the gap on the sides of the impeller but also the gap behind it to the body too.

My thinking is the only real way to test flow and balance would be to have someone mock up a pump and timing cover not attached to an engine but have it in such a way flow meters could be attached to each outlet of the pump where it meets the block and use a motor to drive the pump monitoring flow on each side. taking into account that some flow from the pump on the hose bib for the heater would come from one side or the other. I bet we have members here who could do such a thing, it would be interesting to see results of that.

It was a very slight amount that I removed from the pump.
This is the before picture.

And the after.
The new Delco pump was a real close match and most likely would have caused no problems.
But this should give a smooth transition.

How about sealent on the bolt threads.
Guess I could install them dry then if there is any seepage use a very slight amount of aluma seal.
I did use some of the nickel anti seize when I put it together.

 

[MrMarty51]

Thinking back about the temperature that the engine had got up to, looked back at the picture of the temperature gauge after I had got back to town.
It was not 210*F, it wS right next to 220*F.
I hope with the new GEP advertised steel and casting improvements that no damage occurred to the heads.

 

[Will L.]

I put sealant on each bolt for the waterpump.
It hurts nothing, keeps rotation force:torque equal on them.
I actually asked a GM engineer about that in the 90’s, he said it’s a better practice but costs a couple pennies so they don’t do it.

He said the right stuff was better than any of the stuff gm used factory back when they were built. For those familiar with GMS (GM SILICONE) aka in the dealerships as Gooey Messy Shite- that was a GM attempt at imitating permetex’s Right Stuff. Later they gave up and used permatex.

 

[Twisted Steel Performance]

The only wet hole is the d/s lower hole, you can feel this with your finger inside the hole... the others are blind holes, if you pack sealant where it isn't needed you could push the bottom of the hole out and damage the block...

 

[Will L.]

Yeah- there is a difference in sealant and CRAP TONS OF SEALANT.
How much to use- look at the cured sealant on headbolts. Note how far up the threads it goes and that it is not so thick as to cover the thread edges.
All you do is fill the void.

Unless someone jambs a bunch in the hole before starting the bolt, the sealant should track & stay on the threads at the opening of the hole.
All the waterpumps I’ve done- Ive never had sealant al the way to the end of the hole. Definitely never damaged a block.

But that is good thinking to make sure people don’t jamb a bunch into the hole.

 

[SnowDrift]

Thank You @Big T
I have to have this truck road worthy dependable before the 18th of June. Its going on a long journey on that day. To West Salem Ohio, south of Cincinnati, then drift around Ohio for a while.

Keep us in mind while you're touring Ohio if you have the time. We are north of Columbus

 

[MrMarty51]

I do know that we will be doing a bunch of riding in the Wayne National Forest area.
Today I did get to do a meetup with a member of another forum, from
gmsquarebody.com his handle over there is Idaho Vette.
He and his wife was passing through and He contacted Me and we went out for coffee.
After they left I had thought about going home and working on the truck, but, so many people have quit the school that the kitchen is short handed so I went back to work, I have been the acting lunch delivery person for about a month or more. I’ll be doing this until school is out then maybe through summer they will find a replacement driver.

 

[MrMarty51]

Got the coolant pump installed.
That other pump was cast so bad that the studded original bolts didnt seem the right length.
With this new pump I got out the proper studded bolts, installed them then the alternator bracket fit right and proper over them studs and bolted to the block like it originally is suppose to.
Then pulled the thermostat housing, and, the intake manifold.
Sometime before I got this truck, someone had installed helicoils in the upper manifold bolt holes. One of those repair coil holes had been drilled at an angle.
Last time I had the UM removed, putting it back on and the center forward crooked drilled hole had busted out.
The PO of this truck has some 6.5 stuff setting, he had a couple spare lower manifolds so He mailed Me one.
So now I have also removed the LM and hope tomorrow, before dark can have that nice manifold bolted down and the truck back together.
Thats about all for today.

 

[Will L.]

Because of the potential added wear of the break in oil issue-
I would pull an oil sample for the lab results if you haven’t already.

Don’t run this oil the normal length. It’s always smart to fit in an extra oil change in the first 3,000 miles- people argue where it should be, but all results show it helps to be in there. With the varied possibilities of how hot, how long the break in oil might have stayed functional as normal oil, etc. it’s not the greatest scenario so a little extra attention is definitely a good idea imo.
The panic button side of me is twitching so I don’t wanna hit that and scare you with the extreme “what ifs”.

I would go to the safer side at this point on the oil change interval.

If you’re feeling sprightly, do a compression check. Not thinking head crack damage, just to see seated rings and that the heat didn’t play with the rings any.
I doubt the heat if only 220 for a short time was enough to crack head at valve seats. With that many miles on break in oil- there is no way your rings shouldn’t be fully seated.

Are you planning to synthetic oil for this engine?

 

[MrMarty51]

I bought five gallons of Rotella T-4 15-W40 and was thinking next oil change at 250 miles, and pulling sample from this current oil change when I drain it at 250 miles. Then running the next OC for 500 miles.
Before I pulled the old engine I had ordered oil sample kits and I think there is two or three kits in that bag, two for sure.
Also I believe in doing the full spectrum oil test on every sample sent to Blackstone.
I will switch to synthetic oil but I am thinking of doing that after about 5,000 miles with oil changes every 2000 until then.