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Smoking pmd

Jr5150 said:
I got ahold of a teck 2 and i'm getting P0215 engine shut off solenoid control circuit and p0238 turbo high voltage.
Click to expand...

I found that a standard aerator thread for a kitchen faucet will plug the shut off solenoid hole in the IP. I had to cut the plunger off as it's not removable on some. And then it started leaking to spite me. It was still strapped to the engine to keep the codes down...

If it's not opening this will case the no fuel problem you have. Did we verify it has 12V at any time esp. during cranking?
 
Well, I ended up pulling the trigger on a ip after all my testing and 177k on it. I did find s sheared off crank position sensor in the process, which was a real fun to get. Replaced it still no fuel to the injectors.
Anyway my question is about the ip top mounting lug. Out of the 3 it is shorter and is threaded back into the timing gear. So I'm not able to use all the threads? Is this normal? Should I be concerned about? I appreciate any input.
Thanks
 

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I am concerned this stud could have gone in far enough to contact the IP gear. I provide pics of the area in question with measurements. Just because I have some sitting around... IMO You can correct this by double nutting the stud and threading it back out. But it's got a non-threaded shoulder area that should NOT allow it to go into the timing cover at all. Note it's a different height than the bottom two IP studs. Closer inspection to see WTF is going on is in order.

IMG_2220.JPGIMG_2221.JPG

top stud

IMG_2222.JPG


Bottom two IP studs:

IMG_2223.JPG
IMG_2224.JPG

After you correct the height: With the oil filler off have someone crank the engine and verify via a mirror the IP gear is actually spinning. Sheared key or broke timing chain is possible if the stud locked the works up. Although if it spun with the engine to get the IP gear bolts off you should be ok.
 
Last edited:
WarWagon said:
I am concerned this stud could have gone in far enough to contact the IP gear. I provide pics of the area in question with measurements. Just because I have some sitting around... IMO You can correct this by double nutting the stud and threading it back out. But it's got a non-threaded shoulder area that should NOT allow it to go into the timing cover at all. Note it's a different height than the bottom two IP studs. Closer inspection to see WTF is going on is in order.

View attachment 61122View attachment 61123

top stud

View attachment 61124


Bottom two IP studs:

View attachment 61125
View attachment 61126

After you correct the height: With the oil filler off have someone crank the engine and verify via a mirror the IP gear is actually spinning. Sheared key or broke timing chain is possible if the stud locked the works up. Although if it spun with the engine to get the IP gear bolts off you should be ok.
Click to expand...
 
Looks like you put the short stud in backwards, with the long side past the shoulder going into the timing cover instead of the short side. Thus, too much sticking in and hitting the timing gear and and not enough sticking out to thread the IP nut onto completely.
 
War Wagon,
Thanks a million for the pics. Couldn't find anything with the stud/bolt lengths. After manually cranking it and looking through the oil fill I decide to go for it and put it back together and now she's purring like a kitten with the new ip.Thanks for all the help on here. You guys rocks!
Husker6.5 said:
Looks like you put the short stud in backwards, with the long side past the shoulder going into the timing cover instead of the short side. Thus, too much sticking in and hitting the timing gear and and not enough sticking out to thread the IP nut onto completely.
Click to expand...
Husker6.5 said:
Looks like you put the short stud in backwards, with the long side past the shoulder going into the timing cover instead of the short side. Thus, too much sticking in and hitting the timing gear and and not enough sticking out to thread the IP nut onto completely.
Click to expand...
It had to have been done before I owned it. It's the first time I've had it apart.
 
I would cut the oil filter open on the next oil change. If you have magnetic filings in the filter media I suggest the stud would be rubbing the IP gear.

It doesn't take much to turn the stud around as @Husker6.5 suggested is the problem of backwards. Why didn't I think of that? 🤪 Look for the shoulder being on the IP side of the cover because they could have installed it inside out: from the inside of the timing cover.
 
Or, they threaded it in from the outside like the bottom ones, but threaded the long side past the shoulder all the way into the cover down to the shoulder bottoming out and "jamming" the stud, leaving the short end past the shoulder sticking out and barely reaching past the IP body. Thus, the nut barely has anything to grab onto, let alone having the threads sticking out past the nut like they should.
 
Hey gents,
The truck is running great, however the idle at startup "warm" is at 637 rpm normal but when push the pedal and the rpm will rev and go down and stay at 850 rpm. ETC and Start up is reading -40 on tech2.
Thoughts?
Thanks
 
Hey Guy`s Rob here in Australia , I mounted 2 x PMD`s one with a #6 resistor and one with a #9 I run the #9 but if im getting low on diesel and the next service centre is 1000Ks away swap it over to the one that drinks less ,,
Anyhow an update im in hospital NEW KNEE ,,, will be back on the ROAD BLOODY SOON ,,
 
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