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Rings and bearings while I have the engine out?

Yup, a voice from an experienced front pump destroyer.
Many many years ago, thought I needed to pull the enjun against the transmixer with bolts, even found a couple of bolts that was long enough.
That didnt work out so well.
When the transmission man came by my house I pointed out that the TC would not fit alla the way back, his reply, how hard did You force it ? Told Him it was a tough pull.
I pulled the TC from the trans, he instructed me to pull the front cover, yup he said, gonna take a new pump. He said the cover was still good.
He was an older gentleman and I always appreciated when He would stop over.
Even times when I wasnt doing transmissions, he once told me that I had the most interesting building in town.
I was always making something to make something else work. 😹😹😹
 
I took the engine out, took out the converter, reinstalled it (all 3 ledges), and measured 1.02+" clearance from bell housing mating surface to bolt holes face. Reinstalled the engine and still have 1/4" gap between bell housing and block. Noting's binding: I can easily spin the converter with one finger (the hub is started into the flex plate recess), and the gap is all the way around the mating surfaces. I can't remember if the trans rested back that much when I removed the trans-to-block bolts originally or not. Could the driveline have slid back that much when I pulled the engine, like the guys who installed my rebuilt trans had to pull it forward that much to bolt it all up?
 
Even if the drive train moved you should be able to slide the torque converter forward to meet the flexplate. And everything right there. Make sure the torque converter hub is going into the flexplate correctly
 
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