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Rebuilding a GEP Engine

bobbiemartin

Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide
Messages
567
Reaction score
22
Location
Jacksonville, Florida
If you have been following my thread on installing an engine in our Suburban then you know how I got to this point. I'm going to use this thread to show the buildup of the GEP engine. Once its back in the Sub, I'll finish up that thread.

I bought this engine form a fellow Truck Stop poster that lives in Georgia. I knew it was a GEP engine and I figured it would be a good starting point for the new engine. I'm guessing this is an Optomizer 6500, but I'm really not sure what they call it. I'm sure it was made for an NA Hummer. It has all 24 volt parts on it and a hydraulic fan clutch. The front pulley and water pump have 4 V belt grooves. I'm not sure what the oil pan holds, but it looks bigger than a truck oil pan. Its hard to read the casting date, there is a small blob of metal obscuring the date code letter. However, looking at the heads, bearings and some other parts, they all have 2006 dates, so I think its a safe bet it was made in 2006.

GEPVCsticker.jpg

The Valve Cover says it all, made by General Engine Products

GEPBlockvalley.jpg

And the valley has the diamond logo castings

GEPBlockend.jpg

The rear has the drain tube from the valley. 24 volt OPS and speed sensor, that stuff is made to last!

GEPBlockfront.jpg

The front pulley and fan clutch

So that is the engine as I got it. I started taking it apart tonight. This is one clean 6.5. I really do not think this engine ever ran, if it did, it was not for long. Everything looks like new inside. A couple of the bores have some surface rust (I knew this before I bought it) but for all intents and purposes, its like new.

GEProckers.jpg

First thing I saw were these rockers. As you can see, they appear as new.

GEPheaddiamond.jpg

Diamonds cast in the heads as well. If I read the date codes right, these are 2006 castings.
GEPhead-1.jpg

A better shot of the heads. No wear visible on the valve stems. I'm telling you, this thing is like new.

GEPhead-2.jpg

A little rust on the bottom of the head, but should clean right up.

GEPfrontcover.jpg

Front cover and cam front. Timing chain was removed before I bought it. Anyone know what that steel cover is for? My 95 didn't have anything like that. You can't see it, but it has an electronic type lower timing chain gear with the 4 triggers for the sensor. This engine had a DB2 and the crank sensor hole has a plug. I'm guessing they standardized all the engines to that style and just left off the sensor on the DB2 engines.

GEPbottomend.jpg

Bottom end shot. You can see the crank gear in this picture. A little rust on the crank throw, but it should clean up. Incidentally, this engine did not have a block heater, just freeze plugs.

GEPCrankRods.jpg

Close up of the crank & rods. No cracks in this block!

Well, that is all I got done tonight. Hope to have it at the machine shop by first of next week. I hope you find this somewhat interesting and I'll post another report one I get the block fully disassembled.
 
I believe the steel cover you are talking about by the camshaft is the thrust plate for the camshaft. GM used these to keep the cam from walking forward due to the roller lifters, and the cam gear would keep it from walking back once it was all bolted together.
 
I believe I am dreweling.I can't wait for the military to really start dumping these on the public.
 
WOW. Those are some GREAT photos. That looks like a super super clean block. I agree, we're all DROOLING! Let's get that thing in the truck and make some smoke! Thanks for sharing, Bobbie!

-Rob :)
 
x4 - Very nice find!!

Have there been reports of any significant cracking issues after the redesign & maybe cast iron metallurgy change when GEP took over?

I don't recall hearing about the common head & block crack issues since the redesign & GEP calling in the 6500 Optimizer.

How cool to get the legitimate benefits of piston oil squirters in a block you shouldn't have to worry about!
 
Good stuff Bobbie,
Glad to see the pics, should be an interesting buildup. From what i've seen on these military engines, they are either really clean and nice or they have had the snot ran out of them. This one looked really nice, aside from a little rust IMO. Keep us updated, thanks again.
Don
 
Someone here posted this site last week sometime, so I cant take credit for it. But the military is starting to "dump" these off, cheap too. It all just depends on where you are or have the money to ship. Some reason Cali has quite a few. There was two in AL that looked like they were never fired.
The biggest downfall I could find about going thru this site was the security clearance. It states on your first won item security clearance could take up to 90 days.

http://www.govliquidation.com/index.html
 
I believe the steel cover you are talking about by the camshaft is the thrust plate for the camshaft. GM used these to keep the cam from walking forward due to the roller lifters, and the cam gear would keep it from walking back once it was all bolted together.

No, not the cam plate. Its the larger plate above the cam, it has two bolts and a stud holding it on. I did a little research and its called a "Baffle, Crankcase Vent (6.2 only)". So I would think I don't need this? Any reason to keep it or just pitch it?
 
Good stuff Bobbie,
Glad to see the pics, should be an interesting buildup. From what i've seen on these military engines, they are either really clean and nice or they have had the snot ran out of them. This one looked really nice, aside from a little rust IMO. Keep us updated, thanks again.
Don

Just FYI, Don is who I bought the engine from. A real nice guy and his garage is pretty nice too!
 
Gonna fill the bottom with cement? Might be cheap insurance.....
I thought about this, but I just don't have the experience with block fillers to be comfortable doing that. And I really don't want to wait 2-4 weeks for it to set up. I admit its interesting, but I think this block will go as long as the Sub will, so I'll just build it as is.
 
Someone here posted this site last week sometime, so I cant take credit for it. But the military is starting to "dump" these off, cheap too. It all just depends on where you are or have the money to ship. Some reason Cali has quite a few. There was two in AL that looked like they were never fired.
The biggest downfall I could find about going thru this site was the security clearance. It states on your first won item security clearance could take up to 90 days.

http://www.govliquidation.com/index.html


When i registered for the auctions, it took a couple of weeks to get my clearance for the auctions. In '08 i had to get a TWIX card for airport * military security (i work in the petrol industry and we work on military jet fuel systems a lot) so my clearance went pretty quickly as i already had the DHS and FBI background checks. I've heard that some take several weeks to be cleared. You also have to sign a few forms saying you won't export..etc. When i got the ones i got, they guys at the base told me that they weren't going to get any more for a while. Who knows what a while means though. lol
Don
 
Bobbie

The steel plate in question was used a lot on the older 6.2 engines and is a splash shield to keep hot oil off the IP shaft area.

Why the stopped using it ?????????? Have not a clue.

The 6.5's I have seen dont use it. The older 6.2's all had it.

MGW
 
No, not the cam plate. Its the larger plate above the cam, it has two bolts and a stud holding it on. I did a little research and its called a "Baffle, Crankcase Vent (6.2 only)". So I would think I don't need this? Any reason to keep it or just pitch it?

gmctd did a write up some time ago describing the re-reconfigured CDR which started in '06 for the Hummer engines, but similar (identical perhaps) to early 6.2 engines. The CDR is plumbed into the oil fill tube rather than the valve cover, and I suspect that is the "timing train spash-shield" he described, to keep oil flying off the chain from being slurped out the CDR.

edit - described in this thread... http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/showthread.php?t=1717&highlight=splash-shield
 
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