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Rear Suspension Options

coxpn2

coxpn2

coxpn2
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Location
Western New York
I did quite a bit of searching about airbags, re-arching springs, spacers, etc. Unfortunately, I haven't really seen much feedback from anyone that's done them - the info is presented, but not too many people are commenting on what they liked/disliked. (Or maybe I found the wrong threads :))

My suburban sits lower in the back than I like. If looking at it on level ground, unloaded - the back is maybe a 1/2" to an 1" lower than the front. Not really noticeable, but mildly annoying. However, drop a couple hundred pounds of trailer tongue weight and it drops even more. This looks dumb, and isn't really safe/stable I wouldn't think.

I also have air shocks, which don't appear to hold air. I haven't crawled under to check out where it is leaking, for now I'll just assume the shock itself is and that I need new ones. (Although if you bump pressure of shocks up to 50 psi the rear does pick up, just won't hold air). And I do know you cannot just pump air shocks up to lift the back, or you'll transfer all of the load to the shock mounts and snap them off... I know that response is coming :)

My initial thought was to just put airbags in it to put the rear back up where it needs to be. Looks like you can get them for around $300 (minus the compressor). However, I would still need to get new shocks. The bags would only act as the spring; I still need the dampening action of the shock, correct?

And assuming I use the bags to level the rear of the truck - what would that do to ride quality? If I need 85 psi to jack the rear up higher, is it going to bounce around all over the road with so much pressure? Or can you put 100 psi into the bags and not notice any difference in ride quality? I wouldn't think this would be the case... but I don't know.

Another option I'm finding is re-arching the springs. I'm not sure what shops do this, but would this accomplish what I need?
Another option is buying new leaf springs.

I'm not really sure what would be the most economical way to go at this point. Money is obviously not growing on trees, but if the 'correct' action is to put new springs in then I'll do it. If re-arching works just as well and will only cost $50 and my labor, I'd go that route. If airbags will do what I need and give me adjustability of the rear height, maybe that is the way to go... I'm just not sure!

Let me know what you guys think. Thanks again :)
 
The cheapest option would be to find another set of springs off of a 2500 BURB. A 1500 diesel BURB uses the same basic rear spring pack as a 2500 BURB with a 350. If you could find a set of springs from a 2500 BURB with a 6.5 or 454, they will be a good bit stouter. I know my BURB sits plenty level even loaded down pretty good. I do have roadmasters installed in the rear which raised it up about a 3/4", but they didn't make a big difference as far as weight carrying(but they made a HUGE difference in handling when loaded).
 
I know we might be diving into the 1500 vs. the 2500 "grey" area, but I do have the 1500 with the 8 lug wheel. GVWR is 8050 lbs... does your comment on the 2500 springs still apply?

That makes sense about re-arching... I imagine they just re-bend or re-spring or something like that. Will hold for a bit, but not good as new.
 
coxpn2 said:
I know we might be diving into the 1500 vs. the 2500 "grey" area, but I do have the 1500 with the 8 lug wheel. GVWR is 8050 lbs... does your comment on the 2500 springs still apply?

That makes sense about re-arching... I imagine they just re-bend or re-spring or something like that. Will hold for a bit, but not good as new.
Click to expand...

The 1500 diesel BURB used the same basic rear end setup as the 2500 BURBS with a 5.7L. I'm pretty sure you can swap in a set of 2500 springs to it. I will try and get a length for you on my 2500 springs later on so you can see if they are the same length as yours. I would think you could pick up a set of used springs from a 2500 for about what a re arch would cost, and then you get a much heavier spring pack.
 
I went out and measured yesterday, and the front sits 5-1/2" from the fender flare - the back is 5". So I'm a 1/2" lower in the back than the front.

THEFERMANATOR said:
The 1500 diesel BURB used the same basic rear end setup as the 2500 BURBS with a 5.7L. I'm pretty sure you can swap in a set of 2500 springs to it. I will try and get a length for you on my 2500 springs later on so you can see if they are the same length as yours. I would think you could pick up a set of used springs from a 2500 for about what a re arch would cost, and then you get a much heavier spring pack.
Click to expand...

If you could grab the length that would be cool. And if I pull springs from one at a yard, would it make any sense to try and snag the whole axle/spring assembly? It would be nice to have a locking diff if I could find one, but that might be making this into a bigger project than it needs to be :)

On another note. Does anyone know how much pressure you need to put into the airbags to lift the body/frame up 1"? I'm more curious than anything - do you only need to put 15 psi or so in to jack it up a bit, or does it need 80 psi or something like that?
 
My Firestone bags only need about 20 psi to lift my frame up an inch, my truck always has a load on it with the bale deck on. I use about 50 psi with 2 bales on.
 
Interesting. Doesn't look like much pressure would be required to lift the rear end an 1" or so. I'll keep my eyes open for some spring options and/or a great deal on bags. Not sure which way I would go at this point, but would definitely look forward to Leroy's write up...

Nobody commented on this though: If I found a 2500 suburban springs assembly with the rear end, would it make sense to grab it? If you have the springs out I would think the axle swap would be a piece of cake - just disconnect the U-joint? Or am I going to have different size u-joints or something like that to make it more complicated? I'm probably missing something...

But like I said, it would be nice to have a locking diff if I came across one - putting it in 4x4 because one tire is spinning away in the grass is a little annoying.
 
I'm running a 1500 Burb with Airbags and Rancho RS9000 adjustable shocks and love it. She now rides nice whether loaded or empty with a simple change in pressure. Loaded I do fine at 40PSI and as others have said about 20PSI gets you about an inch in height. To be honest the RS9000 are really not necessary as I have not adjusted them in years but I had them before the airbags. One tip though the pushlock fittings that come with the kits leak too much install compression style fittings instead, I cheaped out and did not install the compressor, I have a 12V Cigarette Lighter adapter for my Trailer Socket and just use a cheapo tire inflator as needed. I'd say go with the bags rather than the springs as you get the best of both worlds, a less firm spring when empty and what you need loaded.

Cheers
Nobby
 
tanman_2006 said:
I'd go with the new axle if you get a deal but chances are that it will have 4.10s

source unknown
Click to expand...

Good point. I probably would have thought of that eventually. Probably :)

nobby said:
I'm running a 1500 Burb with Airbags and Rancho RS9000 adjustable shocks and love it. She now rides nice whether loaded or empty with a simple change in pressure. Loaded I do fine at 40PSI and as others have said about 20PSI gets you about an inch in height. To be honest the RS9000 are really not necessary as I have not adjusted them in years but I had them before the airbags. One tip though the pushlock fittings that come with the kits leak too much install compression style fittings instead, I cheaped out and did not install the compressor, I have a 12V Cigarette Lighter adapter for my Trailer Socket and just use a cheapo tire inflator as needed. I'd say go with the bags rather than the springs as you get the best of both worlds, a less firm spring when empty and what you need loaded.

Cheers
Nobby
Click to expand...

Did you have any suspension sag before you did the bags? Your summary: "I'd say go with the bags rather than the springs as you get the best of both worlds, a less firm spring when empty and what you need loaded." seems to make sense. IF I can get the ride height back from bags and not have a crazy stiff ride, and it is cheaper/easier to find bags than springs, wouldn't it make sense to go that route?

Just thinking out loud - haven't made up my mind yet...
 
No I had no real issues with sag empty prior to the install so was installing from a load carrying perspective and I get your thinking. I would say though that from a height correcting standpoint running empty it will not adversely stiffen things up.

Hang on a sec you are in Western NY, how far from Albany? I am currently working up near there and you are welcome to come check out mine if you like.

Cheers
Nobby
 
Nobby,
I'm about 4-5 hours from Albany, but I appreciate the offer! (I'm in East Aurora, about 30 miles south of Buffalo)

I was looking at pictures of suburbans online the other day, and it looks like most of them sit a touch lower in the back as well. I wonder if wheel spacers would help the look any? I don't like how the back wheels are set inside the wheel well and the fronts stick out. Maybe that makes it look like it sits lower in the back than it really does?
 
I for one like the look with the wheel spacers. It takes away a little shadow effect of the rear wheel well and gives the illusion of a wider tire sportier look. I don't really like wide aggressive tires (looks ok but wears badly and loud). I like a more proportioned tall square-ish tread tire with an aggressive all terrain tread. I like a functional farm truck more than a mudder - offroad appearance. The spacer helps the look. A wide tire will help minimize the inset illusion. You will see more of the brake drum from rear but maybe not as bad with a suburban as a truck.

I can't really say it feels much different but it does look different. But I think you will still need to lift the rear to look nice as I dislike a sagging truck back end. I'd rather have level and low than sag in the rear just my opinion.
 
schiker said:
I for one like the look with the wheel spacers. It takes away a little shadow effect of the rear wheel well and gives the illusion of a wider tire sportier look. I don't really like wide aggressive tires (looks ok but wears badly and loud). I like a more proportioned tall square-ish tread tire with an aggressive all terrain tread. I like a functional farm truck more than a mudder - offroad appearance. The spacer helps the look. A wide tire will help minimize the inset illusion. You will see more of the brake drum from rear but maybe not as bad with a suburban as a truck.

I can't really say it feels much different but it does look different. But I think you will still need to lift the rear to look nice as I dislike a sagging truck back end. I'd rather have level and low than sag in the rear just my opinion.
Click to expand...

Very true. Where did you get your spacers?
 
Wheeladapter dot com

2" spacer each side is what I am running. I can't remember how long I have had them 5/6 + years
 
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