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raced my truck...

Sorry NVW - didn't read your response before I posted my own.....great minds think alike!
 
Very true, I had a TBI Ford, like the one year they made it and without at least 35psi pressure it ran like crap.

Here we have carbeurated like lift pressure, but still effects performance a lot.
 
Tank is near full, performance at both ends of the spectrum tank at any level. Still sounded noisy today. I really don't want to take the tank down. I don't have time for this right now, and I don't even know if that's the problem. All I know is last Sunday after blowing a couple of puffs into the tank from LP, and pulling FFM all apart and cleaning it and putting it back together, for awhile I had phenomenal performance. Now I'm just back to where I normally am. Still don't understand why I'm running better than before the tune and still couldn't shave any time off.
 
When your at the track your at WOT all the time. When your driving around normally your giving the lp time to bring in more fuel
 
if you have a fuel delivery problem, a tune isn't going to let you use any more fuel.. blow back into the tank again, if your performance returns you know its an issue in the tank. rather than drop the tank just lift the bed.
 
can I rip the sock off and put it with my cat, or would that just be asking for trouble? Where is this tube you guys were talking about rotting or leaking? If its the sending tube to the fuel line, wouldnt that bypass the sock anyway? I dont think it would suck air, unless it was all the way at the top, tanks been mostly full lately. I did just have to replace the filler neck a couple weeks ago, I thought it leaked every time I filled up because of the bodylift extension, which I kept trying to fix, but turned out the metal tube right near the top was rotted thru.
 
ak diesel driver said:
When your at the track your at WOT all the time. When your driving around normally your giving the lp time to bring in more fuel
Click to expand...
you might be surprised how much time I spend driving around at WOT. but probably not holding it wide open for 20 seconds. But seriously, like I said the testdrive Sunday night I was rollin' coal like never before and tearing up pavement. Now it's just back to normal.

Guess its time to mess with the tank.
 
It's the tube the sock is connected to. It is the one the fuel line from the tank is attached to. It goes into the tank and draws from near the bottom.

My brothers tractor had some crap in the tank that would periodically plug the line off. Blowing back would clear it for a time.

Another tractor had a crack in the line that would draw air at a given fuel level.
 
dropped the tank, looked like new inside. sock didnt look real dirty, but something about it looked strange. Maybe it was plugged up, I dont know. Anyway, the sock is gone now. No visible signs of rust or cracks in the pickup tube. All back together, runs good but still not the great power it should have, or at least what it had last week for a day or two. Fuel pressure is idling about 5, goes right to zero under throttle. So, either the brand new gauge is inaccurate, or the Walbro is not all it's cracked up to be, or I don't know what else to think.
Smoke I am getting seems less black, more of a gray color. No problems with coolant loss or oil consumption. Last fillup I added about 2/3 of a quart of sae 30.
 
How did the lines from the tank to the LP look? any rust on top of the tank or in the steel lines?

When you took the FFM out have you pulled the fuel heater out at all? I wonder if it could be clogged at all in there or up the central shaft where fuel comes in. Since it helped when you put conditioner in there. And have you noticed that corkscrew piece inside the center shaft and removed it?
 
most of the lines are new, the steel lines on top of the tank are fine, no rust. I did pull the fuel heater out, and there was no corkscrew thing. I flushed it with brake clean from both sides, then blew it out with air from both sides. Couldnt see the screens but the brake clean was flowing through them ok. Everything looked good. Filter is not too old and looks really clean; I have had to replace a clean-looking filter before and found a difference, apparently some invisible or clear-colored crap was clogging it, but don't see how that could be happening again since it has run well with the same filter, and I didn't do anything to clean the filter. DOn't even have the money right now for a new filter, they've gotten so expensive. Used to pay $11, now they're $20-$30.

In case it's not coming through clearly in my posts, I'm extremely frustrated! I'm not quite at the end of my rope, but I can see it from here.
 
I think you may have posted the fuel cap is good. Have you checked it on those long drives when the fuel pressure drops off?

I hear you on the frustration, fixing is OK when you know what to fix
 
Fuel pressure only drops under full throttle. cap ap[pears ok. It actually runs and drives fine, its just that I know there is a whole lot more in the truck, and its driving me nuts. I got a little taste of it last weekend, seat of the pants and a ton of nonstop black smoke. Now it's just ok but no rocket, and the smoke is more like normal, although it appears more gray than black.
Going to try splicing the gauge in ahead of the FFM, see what that tells me.
 
Dan, Have you tried sight glassing it yet ? If I were you I would make up a fuel line and attach it to the in fluent side of the LP and drop the other end in a nice clean 5 gal can of fuel securely strapped in the bed and go for a ride or test your FP however your testing it. I don't know much about these walbros but if you eliminate everything to the LP and still have Low FP then T in a gauge right after the LP and test again. I know alot of work but you got something going on...That Raptor is looking good isn't it? The sending unit can have a pinhole and still "look" fine. The only way to know for sure is plug one end and put shop air in the other with the sending unit submerged in a bucket of water. That is how I found the leak in mine. It also "looked" fine. Dropping the tank in these trucks isnt bad. Drive the front up on ramps and jack and support the rear to same height and have new straps and a wiz wheel handy. Snot the "F" out of everything with anti seize during re assembly for future. You as I, live in NE. Anti seize is our #1 method of defense.
 
You had pictures of your FFM somewhere didnt you? I thought I saw that corkscrew thing inside your FFM. its not on the heater stick, its stuck inside the shaft and the heater goes up in the middle of this corkscrew thing, but it just pushes out.
 
what is sight glass and how do I do it? Buddy I'll doublecheck next time I pull the FFM, but pretty sure there was nothing there. Dont remember ever posting pictures of my FFM. Guess I should have prseeure tested the pickup tube while I was in there, but I didn't. If I have to pull the tank down again I will, but I dont want to. Plan on moving the gauge to the lift pump side of the FFM.

thanks for the support an input guys. I am seriously about at the point where I want to just finish the 82 and park this thing, just keep it around for plowing duty. But I hate to let something kick my butt like this.
 
Sight glassing is the term for a clear hose on either the IP return line or the inlet to the IP. Checking for air bubbles.
 
Changed filter yesterday, threw in a a good amount of power service silver with about 10 gallons. After about five miles my fuel pressure is up a bit, and I'm having trouble getting it to zero lbs. Little bit more coal, but doesn't feel fast.
 
I'm wondering if you have a performance problem and the FP is a side symptom. Let me explain that....plenty of us have seen 0 FP under wot with a stock LP but the truck still ran and pulled fine. I am woondering mif you have more than one issue.
 
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