This thread in GMT400.com is where I read about the ABS sensors being different, and I may have read about some stiffness when swapping to forged LCAs but I'd have to reread.
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/nbs-front-brake-swap-for-obs-trucks.17805/
-
Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.
Your truck knowledge is missing!
- Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
- We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
- Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
- NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
Problems registering? Click here to contact us!
Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!
Project Rear Disc Brakes
- Thread starter Big T
- Start date
https://www.gmt400.com/threads/nbs-front-brake-swap-for-obs-trucks.17805/
- Staff
- #122
FYI, for those doing this, 99-00 gmt-800 knuckles ARE different from 01-07. The difference is in the tie rod end iirc. How it's different I don't know, I just know there's some different part numbers from 99-00 to 01-07. And 1500hd and 2500 is the same as 2500hd, 3500, and gmt-800 3500hd. 8 lug is 8 lug from what I've found.
- Staff
- #123
If I'm reading that right, that has to deal with 6 lug trucks, not 8 lug. GM changed the geometry in the half ton 6 lug trucks for gmt-800.
It's all about gvwr on 8 lugs. If you have the 8600 gvwr you have bigger balls (joints). You also
He installed gmt 800 forged lower cntrl arms from what i remember. I don't know why the geometry would be any different between a stamped and a forged lca from the 400 era... Unless the semi float isnt as wide as a full float 14 bolt which I could see them making the front stamped shorter.
I agree. If you pull the actual front caliper up on ebay. It's used on a lot of different model vehicles on up to just a few years ago. I guess the bracket, disk and knuckle are what got redesigned through the years for different vehicles. It would be nice to know what inner tie rod smithville d used on the "tie rod discussion" thread ya'll were collaborating on a few years back. Truck is sitting on jack stands lol but I'm offshore so it really doesn't matter.
Well I bought a set of 04 GMT 800 knuckles today and it doesn't look like I can just bolt the Trailmaster lift kit spacer onto the top "ear" unless I get a .25" spacer custom machined to make up the thickness between the GMT400 knuckle and the GMT800 knuckle. see pics. So, I have found two lift kit companies that make a 4" taller knuckle for the GMT800. So I have a couple of ways to go,
First buy $600.00 worth of GMT 800 lift kit knuckles
1. install all GMT800 LCAs and parts and just ream the upper and the tie rod holes in the new lift kit knuckles
or
2. Install GMT400 forged LCAs and ream all of the holes
The only thing I like about the GMT 400 LCAs is the larger ball joint that they use. Does it make a difference compared to the GMT 800 lower ball joint?
Another idea I had was to call Moog and see if they may have a upper ball joint that would have the same bolt pattern flange to bolt to the GMT 400 upper CA but with a taper and shaft length/diameter to fit the GMT 800 top knuckle hole. Has anyone tried this? Then it would be all bolt on with the exception of whatever would have to be done for the steering tie rod attachment which I am still a little unclear on which tie rod end to use on the GMT 800 knuckle with the GMT400 inner tie rod assembly.
Anyhow I have a set of 04 GMT 800 knuckles that I will probably trying to get some of my $ back for here soon if anyone is game.
THIS SITUATION IS ONLY BECAUSE I HAVE A LIFT KIT AND DOES NOT APPLY TO A STOCK PARTS APPLICATION!
First buy $600.00 worth of GMT 800 lift kit knuckles
1. install all GMT800 LCAs and parts and just ream the upper and the tie rod holes in the new lift kit knuckles
or
2. Install GMT400 forged LCAs and ream all of the holes
The only thing I like about the GMT 400 LCAs is the larger ball joint that they use. Does it make a difference compared to the GMT 800 lower ball joint?
Another idea I had was to call Moog and see if they may have a upper ball joint that would have the same bolt pattern flange to bolt to the GMT 400 upper CA but with a taper and shaft length/diameter to fit the GMT 800 top knuckle hole. Has anyone tried this? Then it would be all bolt on with the exception of whatever would have to be done for the steering tie rod attachment which I am still a little unclear on which tie rod end to use on the GMT 800 knuckle with the GMT400 inner tie rod assembly.
Anyhow I have a set of 04 GMT 800 knuckles that I will probably trying to get some of my $ back for here soon if anyone is game.
THIS SITUATION IS ONLY BECAUSE I HAVE A LIFT KIT AND DOES NOT APPLY TO A STOCK PARTS APPLICATION!
Attachments
If your asking me. I'm guessing youll find some near any distillery or moonshine vendor. But i really don't know. Try googling.
Nobody is giving out details on inner tie rod. It sucks. Ol girl, wants it from underneath not on top.
Big T
Well-Known Member
No my ‘99 K2500 came with forged LCAs. My son’s ‘94 has the stamped steel LCA. I can say that there is no difference in ride. The steering stops on the forged LCAs allow for as slightly tighter steering radius. I have observed that the forged LCAs easily come off the the torsion bars, whereas the stamped steel LCAs basically rust weld themselves onto the torsion bars. The forged LCAs get hammered out by the torsion bars and you can hear the slop while off-roading. Not so with the stamped steel. So there are positives and negatives with the forged LCAs, but I would take them over the stamped steel everytime.
Big T
Well-Known Member
Yes I did his at the same time I did mine. It was ream o rama fun.
- Staff
- #133
You used the stock inner's, the van outerd, and I reccomend going with aftermarket solid sleeves with jamb nuts. You're not changing any of the stock steering except for the connection to the knuckle, so that's the only part that needs changing.
Hey Ferm, what year van tie rods are you saying to use? I went and bought these for a 2004 GM 2500 van, the ES3609 is for a 8600 GVWR and the ES80311 is for the 7400 GVWR van but they both have a female thread. I was going to take one to a Summit Racing store and try and get the sleeves since I will be driving by the Summit store in GA. next week but I was expecting them to be a male thread.
Attachments
- Staff
- #135
It was the ones in the thread referenced earlier. I want to say they were out of a late 80's G van. You still had to ream the knuckle, but it did away with the double ended shaft to adapt the gmt-800 outer to the gmt-400 inner. I'm still curious if the 99-00 1500hd/2500 knuckles would work with the gmt-400 outer tie rod ends.
When you get it all figured out could you please post the parts you used. Please. Im offshore and have to order everything on line.
Thank you ferm. Going to order the 1.5" ball joint reamer and try and find pn for tie rod your referencing. Thx again!
Big T
Well-Known Member
ES409
Post #25 and #27. Forget the van reference. It's about taper and length.
https://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/t...ke-conversion-tie-rod-discussion.45012/page-2
Damn! I was lost in the sauce. Ive only read that post 20 times. I thought we used metric and the es409rs were standard and he needed some sort of special adapter to link the two together. Sorry about this ferm and t. The anawer was right there all along. Thx for the help very much. Best regards!