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Powermaster Starters

Really the only reason I went with the angle iron was because the condition of my block with the outer ear. I wanted something extra in there to help with the torque and tweaking since when I pulled the old bracket off and saw just how badly it was bent even though the old starter was still cranking the engine.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I did order a heat wrap for the starter from amazon since my factory one is missing. I have it wrapped but I found out you have to insulate the battery cable connection since the wrap seems to be some sort of foil infused fiberglass wrap and was arking on the terminal!

Here is the wrap I used.

Amazon.com

www.amazon.com
Click to expand...
In my cart now. I'll have to search the property and see if I already have something, first.
I about ordered another PMD extension cable and resistor. Had them on n my Leroy cart.
..then I opened the box I wasn't going to check until tomorrow and found a bunch of goodies.
 
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just make sure the lower end of the angle iron can rest on the block just above where the oil pan mates and the bolt surface at the top sits flat with the angle so when you bolt it all down it's not under stress but has two points of contact top and bottom with the starter stud holding on in the middle. that will help keep the starter from twerking when you crank.
 
I put my resistor in the connector of the extension cable where it connects at the IP. that way when I have to swap out a PMD I won't have to worry about the resistor. I have a spare PMD already mounted to a heatsink laying behind the back seat along side a spare PCM ready to connect when I happen to need it while out on the road.

at some point I would like to mount it somewhere near the other one in the bumper and get a dummy connector to keep muck out of it, then it's just a matter of swap connectors on the side of the road and go!
 
in fact, that spare PMD has an extension harness with it. I scored it from the pick a part yard. I had tested it and it works, but I never looked to see if there is a resistor in that PMD. if I have to use it, and it has one. that might make for an interesting side effect if it tries to run with two resistors. Glad you brought it up. not I gotta go look LOL.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I put my resistor in the connector of the extension cable where it connects at the IP. that way when I have to swap out a PMD I won't have to worry about the resistor. I have a spare PMD already mounted to a heatsink laying behind the back seat along side a spare PCM ready to connect when I happen to need it while out on the road.

at some point I would like to mount it somewhere near the other one in the bumper and get a dummy connector to keep muck out of it, then it's just a matter of swap connectors on the side of the road and go!
Click to expand...
After a slushy night experience with the 98 Suburban, and a little butt chewing for getting dirty, I took to mounting 2 PMDs in the bumper - using one license plate bracket bolt for each heat sink.

Some heatsinks, I attached aluminum or stainless angle, channel or whatever worked to attach the heatsinks and have the PMD connector pointing towards the snorkel hole.

Then I ran both extension harnesses up to then engine bay. When I have to change them, they're much easier to get to under the hood.
 
Last edited:
WarWagon said:
In your backyard at the factory! Call sales if you want a local dealer. I purchased mine from Jegs because when a 6.2/6.5 busts a starter WARRANTY was critical to my purchase decision. Jegs did warranty one for me when the bad injectors broke the overrun clutch in it. I do not trust Amazon to be an authorized dealer - a question you can/should ask Powermaster Sales. I get the easy button quick shipping Amazon offers.

Contact Us (powermastermotorsports.com)

Powermaster Manufacturing Facility:
1833 Downs Drive
West Chicago, IL 60185
Tech Center: 630-849-7754 )
Sales/ Customer Service: 630-957-4019
.

They are a bolt in with no modifications required. Only be careful with the two starter wires as this was slightly diffrent with the cheap aftermarket battery cables I was using.
Click to expand...
I found out they sell direct.
Might have to make a road trip. - 3 hours round trip. I had some trees west of there that I want to buy. Might be able to combine the trip. It's supposed to be God awful hot, chemo week, so I won't be worth a shot anyway.

She said Amazon is not an authorized seller. But whoever they procure the starters through might be.

I'll just return the Amazon starter when it gets here and order elsewhere. Or go get it.
 
Honestly I don't recall seeing that in the instructions. all I did was I had to cut and crimp a new eyelet terminal to the wire on the solenoid. so far to date I have no had any cranking issues with it.
 
replacing that wire would take a lot of re-working taking apart the harness up to the column switch. if you do replace it, I would install a relay up on the firewall and run the crank wire from the switch to the relay and feed the relay from the junction block on the firewall and down to the starter. I think that would be a little on the redundancy side of things but would save the column switch from burning out.

I just connected my with the factory wiring and ran with it. Though I did swing down to Napa and have a new cable made that goes from the passenger side battery to the starter. after installing the power master starter, the factory cable was a tad too short and I didn't want to pull it tight.

0/2 welding cable makes for a nice flexible battery cable :)
 
The relay would be easier and work better. The entire circuit would have to be upgraded.
And no, they didn’t always say that in the instructions.

As to the better battery cable.
Don’t use welding cable. Get DLO marine grade cable. It is fine strand like the welding cable but the insulation is better for the heat, better resistance of spills/leaks, better resistance of wear, and will self extinguish flame.
 
Will L. said:
The relay would be easier and work better. The entire circuit would have to be upgraded.
And no, they didn’t always say that in the instructions.

As to the better battery cable.
Don’t use welding cable. Get DLO marine grade cable. It is fine strand like the welding cable but the insulation is better for the heat, better resistance of spills/leaks, better resistance of wear, and will self extinguish flame.
Click to expand...
I believe the coating is also more oil resistant.

I prefer tinned cable if I can find it for a decent price.

I will go with the relay. Hope I can remember how to wire it.

Should be easy to install. Exciter wire and battery to the relay and hot wire to the starter.

I don't want to be causing other issues.
 
a relay should be fairly simple using a 4 or 5 pin relay. I would look on amazon or the auto parts for a base that has the mounting ear rather than the relay it's self having the mounting ear that way you don't have to undo the counting when pulling the relay. all you need would be the exciter wire from the key switch to energize the relay with the ground connected at the firewall, then power from the distro block to the relay and from the relay down to the starter. I can dig up the pinout for a common relay if you need. 99% of them use the same pin numbers. keep in mind that some relays do have a diode in them to prevent feedback voltage. I don't think it will matter in this application if the relay has one or not.
 
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