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Powermaster Starters

Cables - Is the OEM cable sufficient for the Powermaster?

I think I have a replacement cable on the shelf. Either 2/0 or 3/0 with the heavy duty ring terminals. But not the no spin stop tab on the starter end.
 
jrsavoie said:
Where's the best place to buy?
Click to expand...

In your backyard at the factory! Call sales if you want a local dealer. I purchased mine from Jegs because when a 6.2/6.5 busts a starter WARRANTY was critical to my purchase decision. Jegs did warranty one for me when the bad injectors broke the overrun clutch in it. I do not trust Amazon to be an authorized dealer - a question you can/should ask Powermaster Sales. I get the easy button quick shipping Amazon offers.

Contact Us (powermastermotorsports.com)

Powermaster Manufacturing Facility:
1833 Downs Drive
West Chicago, IL 60185
Tech Center: 630-849-7754 )
Sales/ Customer Service: 630-957-4019
.

They are a bolt in with no modifications required. Only be careful with the two starter wires as this was slightly diffrent with the cheap aftermarket battery cables I was using.
 
Powermaster made an update on the location of the terminals- the older ones WarWagon and I used that we were talking about years ago had the wires close to the block - new one clears better.

Upgrading the battery cable size is definitely a good idea. If still running side post- have the new cables made for top post, and just use the adapters until it’s time to swap batteries.

Take a video of it cranking before and after. You will not believe the difference.
 
Will L. said:
Powermaster made an update on the location of the terminals- the older ones WarWagon and I used that we were talking about years ago had the wires close to the block - new one clears better.

Upgrading the battery cable size is definitely a good idea. If still running side post- have the new cables made for top post, and just use the adapters until it’s time to swap batteries.

Take a video of it cranking before and after. You will not believe the difference.
Click to expand...
I actually looked at the cables yesterday. I already upgraded them. Looked like 2/0.
I usually use 3/0, because it's what I have in stock.
A friend 20 miles away stocks 2/0
Why change to the top post batteries?

I run dual posts, but generally use the side posts
 
Why? You know the side post mod, right? The one using a stud or a bolt so the threads don’t strip out as fast as normal and so that lateral torsion of the cable hanging on the fasteners doesn’t come them to come loose as easily as normal?

Vehicles with top posts- ever hear of any modifications for them? No?
Because they are reliable. Because they transmit more power through the connection since there is more surface area. Thats why manufacturers like optima, oddessy, interstate, etc all say when using a combo battery to use the top post whenever possible.

The side post battery was created to the battery could fit in a lower profile cars, and the product was carried over into trucks for lower assembly costs. It’s a penny pinching action, nothing more.
 
Will L. said:
Why? You know the side post mod, right? The one using a stud or a bolt so the threads don’t strip out as fast as normal and so that lateral torsion of the cable hanging on the fasteners doesn’t come them to come loose as easily as normal?

Vehicles with top posts- ever hear of any modifications for them? No?
Because they are reliable. Because they transmit more power through the connection since there is more surface area. Thats why manufacturers like optima, oddessy, interstate, etc all say when using a combo battery to use the top post whenever possible.

The side post battery was created to the battery could fit in a lower profile cars, and the product was carried over into trucks for lower assembly costs. It’s a penny pinching action, nothing more.
Click to expand...
I'll only swap ends if I swap cables. I haven't had much trouble with the side posts.

I did swap a ground end on something. The side post went bad, but the top post still worked for several years - until the battery was done.

On the side posts I use 1-1/4" Allen screws with the ends ground flat for the battery bolt mod.. The bolts seemed a pia.
 
Don't order from Amazon. I had reached out directly to Powermaster and they said they won't honor the warranty, only from their authorized sellers. Summit is one they had suggested to me in an email. That is where I ordered mine from.

on the bracket, I simply cut a longer piece of angle iron and drilled two hole matching the factory bracket. the length was long enough to reach to just above where the oil pan mates on the block so that the bracket had two areas to press on to the block to stop the bending since my block had been repaired. the factory bracket would bend and allow the starter to slightly pivot closer to the block in the bracket area.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Don't order from Amazon. I had reached out directly to Powermaster and they said they won't honor the warranty, only from their authorized sellers. Summit is one they had suggested to me in an email. That is where I ordered mine from.

on the bracket, I simply cut a longer piece of angle iron and drilled two hole matching the factory bracket. the length was long enough to reach to just above where the oil pan mates on the block so that the bracket had two areas to press on to the block to stop the bending since my block had been repaired. the factory bracket would bend and allow the starter to slightly pivot closer to the block in the bracket area.
Click to expand...
Thanks. I really appreciate that bit of information.

I shoulda known better. I was already told once.
But seems it was a Friday and I wanted it here.

I already ordered off Amazon.
I will have to return it and order another.
I will call Powermaster in the morning to see if anything has changed. - like it did with AC Delco.

Guess I'll have to switch projects and work on the lawn mower, which is now sitting about 200 yards from the house.

No nothing when you hit the key
It's a wiring mess. Previous owners had mice get in it. He just cut and spliced enough to make it run. Too many black wires. Just have to start testing and see what I have where. It's been acting up, on the to do list. We've been trying to ignore it until s more convenient time to work on it. - like there's such a thing as that.
 
Last edited:
Drag it up on a trailer and take it back to a cool place to work. nice concrete floor and up on some stands is always nice with a big fan or swamp cooler blowing on you to beat the heat!
 
dbrannon79 said:
Don't order from Amazon. I had reached out directly to Powermaster and they said they won't honor the warranty, only from their authorized sellers. Summit is one they had suggested to me in an email. That is where I ordered mine from.

on the bracket, I simply cut a longer piece of angle iron and drilled two hole matching the factory bracket. the length was long enough to reach to just above where the oil pan mates on the block so that the bracket had two areas to press on to the block to stop the bending since my block had been repaired. the factory bracket would bend and allow the starter to slightly pivot closer to the block in the bracket area.
Click to expand...
Do you remember what size angle iron?
1"x 1" x 1/8"?
 
jrsavoie said:
Thanks. I really appreciate that bit of information.

I shoulda known better. I was already told once.
But seems it was a Friday and I wanted it here.

I already ordered off Amazon.
I will have to return it and order another.
I will call Powermaster in the morning to see if anything has changed. - like it did with AC Delco.

Guess I'll have to switch projects and work on the lawn mower, which is now sitting about 200 yards from the house.

No nothing when you hit the key
It's a wiring mess. Previous owners had mice get in it. He just cut and spliced enough to make it run. Too many black wires. Just have to start testing and see what I have where. It's been acting up, on the to do list. We've been trying to ignore it until s more convenient time to work on it. - like there's such a thing as that.
Click to expand...
Check over the starter when it arrives. make sure it's indeed a real powermaster. amazon will honor returns up to 30 days if bought under prime.

the one thing I have noticed with mine is when cranking it spins over quick, but as soon as the engine fires up and the starter bendix retracts, you can hear the gear spin down and seems to have that vibrating dry bushing noise. it's done that since day one. I have had thoughts of pulling the starter and trying to check and grease that front bushing around the gear shaft if that's possible without going into it.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Drag it up on a trailer and take it back to a cool place to work. nice concrete floor and up on some stands is always nice with a big fan or swamp cooler blowing on you to beat the heat!
Click to expand...
Yep. I have at least 3 fans out of furnaces.

The Toros don't have anything to hold down the hydrostat buttons for dragging it around.

I was advised by somebody a while back to use rare earth magnets to hold the buttons down.

I'd forgot that until a few minutes ago, when I did a search and found my last post on the subject. My wife had remembered anyway.
 
Yes, 1" x 1" x 1/8" I couldn't measure the length but I think it's around 6-7" long. I took a couple pics of it on the truck and found the ones I took when I had it on the 6.2 block during mock up.

IMG_4223.jpgIMG_4224.jpgIMG_4414.jpgIMG_4415.jpg
 
I did order a heat wrap for the starter from amazon since my factory one is missing. I have it wrapped but I found out you have to insulate the battery cable connection since the wrap seems to be some sort of foil infused fiberglass wrap and was arking on the terminal!

Here is the wrap I used.
 
As an Amazon Associate we earn from qualifying purchases.
Thanks again. having the length really helps.

I'm often tempted to scrap all.my scrap steel. And then little projects pop up.

Even my wife has trouble pitching, what might be usable.

It's about 2 hours round trip to come home with something from the steel yard.
 
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