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Possible Engine Build for my 93 Truck

dbrannon79 said:
@dieselolds I know you've done some rebuilds on IP's, would you know a reliable source I can get a kit for one of these IP's if I were to attempt to rebuild it myself? the IP I posted pics of has sat about 10 years on this engine and I'm sure it will need to be gone through before trying to use. if it already has updated parts and only needs to be cleaned out and re-sealed that would be a plus. not unless you'd like to go through it for me!
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You can get the kits on Amazon or eBay.I find spaco or star brands are just as good as OEM stanadyne.I’ll post a link for you.I could go through it if you wanted me to.I wouldn’t want anything to do it.I would dismantle it and put all parts in the ultrasonic cleaner.
 
Will mentioned that they aren't hard to go through compared to the electronic ones. so long as the adjustments aren't messed with. I have three here two of which have not been tampered with those adjustments.

The one that was tampered with is on my 93 still running.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Will mentioned that they aren't hard to go through compared to the electronic ones. so long as the adjustments aren't messed with. I have three here two of which have not been tampered with those adjustments.

The one that was tampered with is on my 93 still running.
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That is true.There is no problem dismantling the pumps and reseal them.The problems arise when transfer pump settings are altered and if roller to roller settings aren’t adjusted right.If doing a basic reseal with new transfer blades and liner no problems will arise.
 
dieselolds said:
That is true.There is no problem dismantling the pumps and reseal them.The problems arise when transfer pump settings are altered and if roller to roller settings aren’t adjusted right.If doing a basic reseal with new transfer blades and liner no problems will arise.
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Other problems can arise also if the pump driveshaft is installed 180 degrees incorrectly into the pump itself.Thats another thing you need to watch out for.
 
Well I got the other 6.2 torn down, pulled the heads off. these were much cleaner and a whole lot easier to clean! I got all the valves pulled and gave them a good bath with the power washer. This time I didn't sling grease and crud all over myself and everything else around me HAHA.

cleaned up all the gasket surfaces scrubbing by hand and carving 90% of all the carbon deposits I saw. then started inspecting for cracks and bad valve seats. all in all I think I have a good set of 6.2 heads now! found no cracks and all the seats look to be intact.

during the disassembly I also checked the for side to side play in the guides. a couple had a tiny bit of movement but most of them I could not feel anything.

Casting # on these heads are 10477162. IDK if these are better heads but according to online sources these have the smaller valves. I also noticed the precups have a "N" on them

Here is some photos of them after cleaning.


#8 to #2 left to right
IMG_1395.jpg

#8
IMG_1396.jpg

#6
IMG_1397.jpg

#4
IMG_1398.jpg

#2
IMG_1399.jpg

#1 to #7 left to right
IMG_1400.jpg

#1
IMG_1401.jpg

#3
IMG_1402.jpg

#5
IMG_1403.jpg

#7
IMG_1404.jpg
 
I think I am gonna have a big pile of leftover parts to get rid of once I finish this project! two 6.2's torn down in the garage! I'm running out of room to move around LOL

I may strip the 6.2 that's cracked and send it to the scrap yard. not unless there are things in the block that would need to be saved on. I could pull the cam and crank, maybe pistons too, but the block has cracking in the main-webbing.
 
Question for you guys. I am going forward and cleaning up all of the valves, springs, keepers, shims and all and start lapping the valves. Obviously I need to keep the same valve in the same hole in the head, but do I need to keep the springs, keepers, shims, and whatnot all together with the same valve?

I see the tops are different between the intake and exhaust on the spring caps.

Also is there a bottom and top to these springs?

the reason I ask is because if I don't need to keep all that separated per valve, it would cut down on how many cycles I have to do on my ultrasonic cleaner washing each set one by one.

IMG_1405.jpg
 
Well what do you guys think? are these good or do I need to lap further? I spent about 5 minutes on each of these two valves lapping by hand. I went until the grinding sound almost went completely quiet. though I noticed that when I stopped and re-applied more compound the grinding sound came back, but went smooth a lot quicker.

This is my first time lapping valves so hope I am doing it right. watched a few youtube vids, and the only one that showed more in depth and explained a lot was watching one from vicegrip garage. he's the only one that used assembly lube on the stem. I did too!

IMG_1406.jpg
 
Here is the video I used to learn. he's doing a small block chevy and it starts around time stamp 34:23 and goes till time stamp 50:13

it's over a 2 hour video. I like watching his videos! one of the only reasons I pay for youtube premium so I can watch shows without any ads!!

 
Starting to look up gaskets and things I need to get this engine put together. I may take some items off or look for them on the jungle site to try and save on some cost, but other than the oil pump and HB, what am I missing?

I see differences on head gaskets too, I figure stay with the standard thickness, but which one is better to use?

on the oil pump, they only show a high volume pump for the newer model 6.5's not for a 6.2. they are also expensive compared to a standard one. I could get a repair kit too. when I was cranking on this engine doing the compression test I was seeing up around 60 psi on my gauge I screwed into the block.

as for the HB, I don't see a GM one available and I can't afford a fluiddamper. what should I do in this department?

I figure get the parts here so I have the seals to get the heads back together. I will end up going with the OE o-ring valve seals since the heads will require machining to use the umbrella seals.

One other question is on the head gaskets. despite what gasket I use, back in the day I always saw everyone using the spray can of copper seal on them. Should I also use that putting this engine together?

Here is my shopping cart from RA. I used the listing for an 83 burb 6.2 for most of the parts including head bolts as I don't know what thread pitch I need, and then used a 99 pickup 6.5 for the timing chain.

1777160830437.png
 
dbrannon79 said:
Well I got the other 6.2 torn down, pulled the heads off. these were much cleaner and a whole lot easier to clean! I got all the valves pulled and gave them a good bath with the power washer. This time I didn't sling grease and crud all over myself and everything else around me HAHA.

cleaned up all the gasket surfaces scrubbing by hand and carving 90% of all the carbon deposits I saw. then started inspecting for cracks and bad valve seats. all in all I think I have a good set of 6.2 heads now! found no cracks and all the seats look to be intact.

during the disassembly I also checked the for side to side play in the guides. a couple had a tiny bit of movement but most of them I could not feel anything.

Casting # on these heads are 10477162. IDK if these are better heads but according to online sources these have the smaller valves. I also noticed the precups have a "N" on them

Here is some photos of them after cleaning.


#8 to #2 left to right
View attachment 99185

#8
View attachment 99186

#6
View attachment 99187

#4
View attachment 99188

#2
View attachment 99189

#1 to #7 left to right
View attachment 99190

#1
View attachment 99191

#3
View attachment 99192

#5
View attachment 99193

#7
View attachment 99194
Click to expand...
Very nice job on the cleanup.I don’t see any visible cracks between the valves either👍
 
dbrannon79 said:
I forgot to mention that these heads also had the cast iron rockers like the other one too!
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I like those cast rockers.I have those on my current 6.2 and I also have another set I would like to install on the 1987 rebuild I plan to start on very soon.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Question for you guys. I am going forward and cleaning up all of the valves, springs, keepers, shims and all and start lapping the valves. Obviously I need to keep the same valve in the same hole in the head, but do I need to keep the springs, keepers, shims, and whatnot all together with the same valve?

I see the tops are different between the intake and exhaust on the spring caps.

Also is there a bottom and top to these springs?

the reason I ask is because if I don't need to keep all that separated per valve, it would cut down on how many cycles I have to do on my ultrasonic cleaner washing each set one by one.

View attachment 99195
Click to expand...
Inspect the valve keepers closely.If they are in good shape reuse them but toss them if they have any wear.I would keep everything together as it was taken apart.It doesn’t matter which way the springs go.
 
In regard to the head gaskets choosing the proper gasket will depend upon on piston protrusion at TDC.The 5.7 diesel is checked in the same way.For the 6.2 I believe if protrusion is .006” or greater use the thicker head gasket.Someone here will know for sure.

I’ve never used the copper spray on any head gasket in the past.I’ve heard of guys using it though.

Once you reassemble the heads try pouring some mineral spirits or pinesol down through the intake and exhaust ports and see if there is any sign of leakage.
 
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