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Poor man ways to soften the ride quality on 1 ton 2wd Crew Cab

dbrannon79

dbrannon79

I'm getting there!
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Just at the title is, I am looking into ideas to help soften the ride quality on my crew cab truck that won't cost a fella a bunch of money. All without lowering the suspension. my end goal since I don't haul much of anything other than people is to basically have my rig able to "float" on the freeway or not be so rough on roads in town. similar to how a burb would ride. I'm just gathering information here for a future backyard project, so I'm not in any rush to get this done.

I need to look at both the front and the rear suspension but figured I would start first on the front. things I have thought about is swapping the coil springs out for a set made for a 2500 series truck. searching online it seems both are the same height and diameter, only difference is the spring rate. during my search the only specs I could find were from the Dorman site, others don't list the specs in this manor like I could find years ago where everyone would list everything about the parts! And no I'm not looking at using Dorman brand, just using their specs to go off from.

Here are the differences between the two:

Dorman 566-219 OEM C3500
Specs:
Free Height:15.00 inches
Maximum Inside Diameter: 4.00 inches
Maximum Outside Diameter: 6.00 inches
Spring Rate:1555 lbs/in
Spring Type:Constant Rate
Wire Diameter: 1.00 inch

Dorman 556-242 - C2500
Specs:
Free Height:15.00 inches
Maximum Inside Diameter: 4.00 inches
Maximum Outside Diameter: 6.00 inches
Spring Rate:1390 lbs/in
Spring Type:Constant Rate
Wire Diameter: 0.946 inch

I figured I might need to replace the rubber insulator that goes on top of the spring for a 1 or 2 inch spacer to keep the height, but this might soften the ride quality.

Now for the rear leaf springs...

I know my rears are shot and sit on the overloads unless I add about 40 - 60 psi into my air shocks which will lift them off the overloads about 3/4 inch. ether way the rear is stiff. I have heard guys talk about cutting the overloads off right at the U-bolts on both sides or flipping them in the spring pack, but I feel like that isn't going to do much back there.

I also figured if I soften these springs, I can always keep the air shocks when I need to carry an extra load. as far as replacing them with something different, I don't know if swapping to a 2500 spring would fit into the same hangers being long enough. if that would work in combination with the air shocks or maybe adding some sort of air bag helpers that I could keep at say 10 - 15 psi until needed, I would be happy.

I will look into the specs and measurements on the 3500 and 2500 leaf springs soon to see if that would be feesable but any suggestions you guys have as far as a cheap modification other than spending bookoos of money for suspension kits?
 
Look into air bags.
If you can fabricate the mounts- all the better for cost. Otherwise buy the bag and mounts. The rest is simple DOT approved airline bought cheap on Amazon or the like and fittings. Then use the Schrader valve connector like airing up a tire.

The auto leveler and built in air compressor is nice but drives up cost.
Keep an eye out for good deal on a compressor, switches, relays, etc.

You’ll learn what pressure is good for cozy driving and what is good for heavy load.

Removing most of the leaf springs and riding on the bags makes for the best ride.
Electronics equipment like all the stuff used for music concerts, movie and tv production - all that stuff is always shipped in semi trailers on air ride suspension for a reason.

There are kits for front air bag suspension as well- but harder to find for some rigs.

You are trying to simulate it with the air shocks now- problem is if you don’t get rid of the heavier springs- you can only make it harder with air shocks.

In pickups the biggest gains are usually found in the rear not the front because rear suspension is dialed up for thousands of added pounds.
 
JayTheCPA said:
This looks like a lot of work to me.

Get a bunch of used 55 gallon drums and fill them with water.

The extra weight will make the rig ride like it is on a cloud. Bonus is this will cost far less than replacement suspenion parts and is also a LOT easier to install :D
Click to expand...
I have to admit when I picked up that 6.2 engine and didn't have a hoist. I had to ride around a couple weeks with it in the bed of the truck! it did ride a lot smoother then LOL.
 
I've looked online for an air bag system or adaptation for the 2wd flavor on these trucks but found hardly anything available. I will have to look into the variable rate springs. as long as they are not heavier duty than the factory ones that is a good idea.

I'm sure I could fab up some brackets for an air leveling valve like we use on the old freightliners at work. I also have tucked away in my garage, an old air pump that comes factory on an older GM car or caddy for the air suspension they used. that might work to keep a small air tank inflated for a set of rear bags. the air bag lift kits we have used on some of the pickup's at my work aren't terribly expensive, those are only used as helper bags but I wonder if those would work for full time support if most of the leafs are removed in the rear.

I found this set on the jungle site which isn't too bad for a complete kit. but it shows a capacity of 5000lbs for a 1 ton rig that's 2 1/2 tons. would that be overkill if say all but two leafs are removed from the spring packs?

 
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I started looking at the rear leaf pack to see what I have on there from factory. looking on RA comparing specs and measurements it looks like both 1 ton and 3/4 ton trucks use the same spring measurements.

My rig has 6 leafs total, 5 + the overload.

1674967478459.png
5/1 = 6 Leaf
A: Short End Length (Inches) 32
B: Long End Length (Inches) 32
C: Free Arch (Inches) 6.5
D: Pack Thickness (Inches) 3.25
Load Rating (lb) 2235
Width (Inches) 2.5

if the above linked air bag kit would help smooth out the ride, I could possibly remove all of the leafs including the overloads to leave maybe the top 2 or 3 in the pack. install a spacer the same height of the leafs that I remove.

I think for this, seeing that both truck classes use the same size springs, I might be better to venture out to the pick a part yard and snag on a pair to use, removing the leafs I want and preserve the springs I have in case I goof on something LOL.

the only thing I don't like for the air bag kit is that in the instructions, you have to drill a couple of holes in the frame for the mounting brackets. the way I was taught at work is when we work on frames, you want to avoid drilling into the frame as much as possible.
 
True avoid when possible, but air lift, firestone, etc are established companies not some fly by night outfits. So ling as you are not drilling the flanges- you should be fine.

Since your familiar with big truck air suspension- look around at some of the class 4–6 air bags. A bit harder to fit, but you know you’ll never hurt them.

There is a few options for dealing with the leaf springs- if you get another junkyard set- look into simply cutting the lower leafs -but you want equal spacing in set.
This is a legitimate method, just normally we would disassemble, round the edges, reassemble.and paint afterwards. Look up “mini leaf kit” to get the idea. Paint the cut edges but not the entire thing.

Never paint lear springs while apart and never oil them like the old 1930s did. Different metal and oil ruins modern spring steel. Paint is between will allow freeplay later. but you can keep factory height and just let the leaf springs not hold the weight- so they will be softer. Then add the air bags to make up the weight difference when needed.

if you have a parts supplier at work that understands big truck suspension- he can find you better air bags for same price then you just need to make some brackets.
 
@Will L. if I am understanding you correctly on the "mini leaf kit" concept, on the junkyard spring pack I would basically take the lower leafs and cut them down leaving equal lengths from the center pin having each one from the lowest one up be slightly longer. lowest one say 6 inch out then next one 8 inches up to 12 inches (just guessing lengths here). separate them and round off the edges, paint only where you cut for rust purposes. or even not separate them at all but carefully round them without touching the one above with a grinder or flap wheel. And of course cutting the overload down to serve only as a spacer to keep the entire pack the same height and use the same length u-bolts.

I found a pic online of what I think your talking about, only these aren't rounded on the ends.

in short, the remaining leaf springs would only be serving one purpose as I understand it. keeping the rear axle in position while the bags do all the work. I would always have to remember never to jack up the rear from the frame unless I chained the axle up so the bags don't rip apart. same as we do for most air rides on the big trucks.

1674981896622.png


for the bags, the drill points in the instructions are showing to drill what looks like two holes in the flange area and one in the vertical of the frame above the axle to mount the bracket holding the bag. it also shows a bracket that sandwiches the flange area of the frame. I would assume this would be "ok" to do and not compromise the strength of the frame? I attached the instructions for the kit, look on page 11 where it shows "Attaching the upper bracket" this kit supposedly is for 88-00 1500 to 3500 trucks. I found their website that gives some more details on the kit.

www.airliftcompany.com

LoadLifter 5000 Air Spring Kit - 57216 | Air Lift Company

Performance Air Suspension and Air Management
www.airliftcompany.com www.airliftcompany.com

BTW: where would a fella find out what the factory ride height should be on these trucks from factory? I know that's a debatable question and more of a preference nowadays. but it's just to get an idea, I know mine is most likely sagging. I would think the rear should be 2 -3 inches higher than the front. that old pic that floats around on the web just popped into my mind showing trucks with the rear dropped looking like how the dogs scoot around on the floor hahaha.
 

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JayTheCPA said:
This looks like a lot of work to me.

Get a bunch of used 55 gallon drums and fill them with water.

The extra weight will make the rig ride like it is on a cloud. Bonus is this will cost far less than replacement suspenion parts and is also a LOT easier to install :D
Click to expand...
My 89 C2500 weighed about 8900 lbs most days.

I had heavier springs installed. For about $250 at the local spring place

Maybe just get a gang box and fill it with tools with a couple of side tool boxes and ladder rack.
 
Yes that is basically how the springs get cut. When that is done, it will lower the height of the truck because each spring is holding weight. By doing that they basically become lifting blocks- which is another way its done. Thinking back on it, we I remember adding a 1 or 2 inch lifting block when doing this to correct the height to factory level.

Sorry, it has been many years since doing this so details are foggy. The more we talk the more what I remember as no big deal was probably more like a 30+ hour job, with 40 hours research. We figured it all out then just looked in that file for what to buy and make.

Factory height of trucks changed based on what it was equipped with. The rear wheel well slightly higher was normal- but when people would order trucks factory with no ver loads they would be higher yet. The upfitters book had details- but modifying to suit customer’s opinion was the norm.

The way they are showing drilling the frame is normal and the correct way to do it, but you are correct in not doing that when there is other options. You’ll notice GM did it at cross members but no where they didn’t need to.

On the point of not jacking from the frame- you just add an extension limiter strap.
Couple random pics to show idea. We used to add them to fuel trucks that had to travel off road for fueling equipment. Most common use is off roading. In the old days we would use the short end of a 2” ratchet strap- rated for 20,000 lbs load, we just cut away the metal end hook and bolted through the two ends. Proper made ones are readily available now.

We used to buy firestone airbags for medium duty trucks. They are calling those 5000- but you need to verify with the company- ask them what actual ratings are incase that is just a marketing number.

96805007-8275-4EBA-B275-6C431EA27377.png113DB996-FEEB-45F8-9CEF-8D83CD9329CE.jpegCFB7B48A-1FA8-4335-BF2B-794B7A3AA9E7.jpeg
 
Not that I am going to try this at all, I was goofing around on the innerwebs and ran across this diy'ers video on re-arching springs. it seems very informative on how it's done in the spring shops, but seems a bit dangerous to me.

there's one thing I think I would do different that this guy did, that's use a curved piece of metal rather than a piece of flat on the press so not to have several flat spots and line bends in the leaf.

it also seems that the consensus is that after having springs re-arched, it makes for a stiffer ride, not sure how true that is but not what I'm wanting to achieve here.

 
Something else I was thinking about for this project. installing bags and removing the leaf springs ability to hold the trucks weight got me to thinking about the event that an air leak occurs. I need to have some sort of device to limit how low the rear will drop and not have the bags fully compressed to the point damage would occur to ether the bags or the remaining leaf springs would break.

I took a peak yesterday and did not see any bump stops anywhere under the rear axle, the bag kit also shows in the instructions to remove them if present. so there would be nothing stopping the rear end from dropping fully collapsing the bags and riding on them in the event of a leak.

A couple of things have gone though my mind for this but none have actually been that brilliant of a solution.

the first one was if they made some sort of add on adjustable bump stop that can be installed somewhere under there, but I can't seem to figure where it could be mounted since the bags would be installed where the factory ones are.

the second one that I thought about was fabbing up some sort of spring shackle that where the leaf spring mounted the through bolt hole was slotted to allow up and down movement ( and not cutting or removing any of the leafs ). basically having the shackle with the spring end mounted hole elongated so it would only hold the back end when the truck was lowered too far. I figured since the bags will be taking all the weight off the springs there wouldn't be much force on the shackles other than side to side when in turns just to keep the axle straight.

if doing this, I don't know how much travel it would need for up and down movement but I was thinking about a 6 inch slot and setting a leveling valve to keep the lift in about mid way having a 3" up or down movement.

Idk. maybe I'm over thinking it, but I'm sure those bags aren't meant to be collapsed with weight on them for any length of time and of course not to be driven like that at all. I was just trying to come up with an idea that if I had a failure like a blown line or something, that I would still be able to limp the truck somewhere and not be stuck on the road type thing.
 
We've had springs reached, never had a problem.
The better shops can adjust for height and understand adding/ subtracting leafs for more or less loads.

If yours is sitting on overloads- it is wrong. Overloads should only come into play on occasion- iirc 20% of time is max.

On the stoppers- yeah you always need some. If there is no place to add them exterior, there are airbags made with them inside.
Problems with that design:
1. More expensive
2. Not as much travel allowed for you to adjust between light and heavy loads.

You should never run any airbag collapsed.
If you are running an air bag at max level it is wrong also. Different percentages from different manufacturers. I remember having to switch brands on some of the heavier semi trucks because we were running maxed and the bags fail.
Goodyear, firestone, hutchins were all good brands but set up for different loads and heights.
 
I suppose once I am able to get in there and actually do something, I will give it a good look and see where I can mount some stoppers at. the springs are mounted to the outside of the frame, maybe adding a bracket on the outside of the frame over the axle for some stoppers will work since the bags mount directly under the frame over the axle tube. the stoppers can go next to them.

I need to see what is supposed to be on there for stoppers. anyone have a photo of them mounted and where they went?
 
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