Sunshine
Northern Lights
A Pittman arm removal - re-placement.. I've hear rumours it should be left to the mechanic coz its it a PITA. your views on this would be thankful....
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Pittman Arm
- Thread starter Sunshine
- Start date
vail426
Member
I know you must remove the steering box because there is not enough clearance to get the pitman arm off. You might be able to just remove the steering box bolts and get enough room to wiggle it off. Of course you need a puller to get the arm loose first. I think that is where the clearance becomes an issue. Good luck.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I vote garage jobby. (And I don't use garage's EVER) Its just a bitch all around, even worse on your back. I let them do mine, after I gave it about an hours worth of thinking sizing up wrenches on my back.
chevyCowboy
I might be crazy but i ain't dumb
me and dad got er done on my truck last spring it was a real PITA tho i couldnt tell you how we finaly got it off couldnt use a puller i think we ended up wedgeing it off with 2 good sized chisels sort of like a pikle fork but didnt have one that would fit
vegtech
WVO Enthusiast
It's easy with a puller. Most parts stores will loan you the puller for free. Remove the nut that holds it to tlhe linkage then remove the three bolts that hold the box to the frame slide the box over to get to the nut that holds it on. You will need an impact gun to remove the nut. Put the puller on and hit that with the gun and it will come right off. The new one will only go on three ways just remember it points to the back of the truck. No need for an alignment after.
BigBlueChevy
Compression Ignition Addict
Removing the Pitman arm is actually quite easy. Did it myself when I did the axle swap. And its been one of the trouble free items(knock on wood) that was done. Took me less than a half hour to get the old one off and the new one on.
Go to pepboys and pick up there Pitman Arm puller tool. Looks like a C-clamp with a threaded bolt in the center. Remove the large nut and lock washer from the steering shaft first. It may need a little PB blaster and a really big cheater handle over your wrench to break it free. Nothing to fancy about it. You may need to "clearance" some of the cast material off of the tool itself to get it to work, but essentially, you want to slide it over the pitman arm from the FRONT of the truck. Don't try to do it from the back, this is where it gets stuck. Oil up... sorry, oil the PISS out of the threaded bolt, then center it on the shaft of the steering box(piece in the middle). Start wrenching. And don't be afraid to fight with it. That SOB will take ALOT of torque to get off. And no, the tool isn't going to break:thumbsup: Even if it feels like it.
Lots of fighting, cussing and PBblaster later you will be holding that Pitman arm in your hand.
Enjoy
Go to pepboys and pick up there Pitman Arm puller tool. Looks like a C-clamp with a threaded bolt in the center. Remove the large nut and lock washer from the steering shaft first. It may need a little PB blaster and a really big cheater handle over your wrench to break it free. Nothing to fancy about it. You may need to "clearance" some of the cast material off of the tool itself to get it to work, but essentially, you want to slide it over the pitman arm from the FRONT of the truck. Don't try to do it from the back, this is where it gets stuck. Oil up... sorry, oil the PISS out of the threaded bolt, then center it on the shaft of the steering box(piece in the middle). Start wrenching. And don't be afraid to fight with it. That SOB will take ALOT of torque to get off. And no, the tool isn't going to break:thumbsup: Even if it feels like it.
Lots of fighting, cussing and PBblaster later you will be holding that Pitman arm in your hand.
Enjoy
Sunshine
Northern Lights
Thanks for your input so far very helpful, do I need to replace the nuts to new ones..? And only if I lived in the US life could be a little easyer having a Chevy but we get by so there be no problem with tools...And I get parts shipped from NJ to Norway by boat or that big silver grey pigeon in the sky...Rgds :smile5:
BigBlueChevy
Compression Ignition Addict
That would help If I payed attention to you living in Norway lol. You won't have to replace the nut, but there's nothing wrong with replacing it while its off if you can.
- Staff
- #9
1. Loosen the 1 5/16" nut the holds the piman arm to the steering box with a large box end wrench.
2. Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles(don't remember the size off hand right now, but I think they are 18MM)
3. Remove the 3 18MM bolts that hold the idler assembly in place.
4. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the steering box to the frame(they are 21MM or 22MM)
5. Wiggle the box to the side and you can get a puller on it with just enough room to get a socket and extension on the puller and pop the pitman arm loose from the box.
6. Now you can slide the whole assembly out and replace the piman arm, idler arm, and idler arm pivot on the bench as all 3 should be replaced together unless you want to do the job in another 5K miles.
7. Install the new pieces to the linkage off the truck and inspect the tie rod ends and then re-install the assembly in the truck. This job is a bit of a pain, but I do them on the floor of my shop in about 45 minutes.
8. When you do an oil change check the pitman arm nut as chances are it will have loosened up. Around 06 they changed the material that they make the pitman arm out of and it will lossen up on the tapered shaft of the steering box.
2. Remove the tie rod ends from the steering knuckles(don't remember the size off hand right now, but I think they are 18MM)
3. Remove the 3 18MM bolts that hold the idler assembly in place.
4. Remove the 3 bolts that hold the steering box to the frame(they are 21MM or 22MM)
5. Wiggle the box to the side and you can get a puller on it with just enough room to get a socket and extension on the puller and pop the pitman arm loose from the box.
6. Now you can slide the whole assembly out and replace the piman arm, idler arm, and idler arm pivot on the bench as all 3 should be replaced together unless you want to do the job in another 5K miles.
7. Install the new pieces to the linkage off the truck and inspect the tie rod ends and then re-install the assembly in the truck. This job is a bit of a pain, but I do them on the floor of my shop in about 45 minutes.
8. When you do an oil change check the pitman arm nut as chances are it will have loosened up. Around 06 they changed the material that they make the pitman arm out of and it will lossen up on the tapered shaft of the steering box.
Joey D
Member
- Messages
- 528
- Reaction score
- 8
I take the bolts out of the box and wiggle it until my puller fits on. I have a nice snap on puller that's slim and fits right in there
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1245&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...&group_ID=1245&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
When I did mine I took out the bolts that hold the box to the frame and then collapsed the steering shaft (by pushing it towards the steering wheel) and then there's plenty of room
- Staff
- #12
Once you take the 3 big bolts out that hold it, turn the steering box towards the passenger side and it will move right back so you can get to it.
Turbine Doc
Just Another Diesel Guy
Sometimes easy, sometimes hard, I took mine to a shop last time with new arm, after I replaced everything else except the pitman, they broke 2 pullers getting it off, I had them do the re-alignment while at it.
Jess_sr
New Member
packers905
New Member
I use a cutoff wheel too it is way faster just cut a nice slice drive in a chisel and whammo done, I have used my snap on puller on lots of em also if they are easy to get to.
jmiller
Recruit
I've hired a pitman arm change out twice now, in 30k miles. They are notorious for failing early, Ive found many oil change places don't know what a grease gun is!
Cost me a ball joint too.
Cost me a ball joint too.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Because its a bitch to get to... It help sif you turn the wheel all the way to the side then you can get to the top of it from underneath...
You think they took the time to remove your spash shield to grease your idler if they can't even grease that?
I see these dirt cheap oil changes, It takes me good few hours to change oil and grease all fittings and check fluids. Granted I have no lift, but I wouldn't expect much out of a cheapy oil change. Even if the price isn't cheap, due to the 8 quarts of oil, they can't possibly have the time or desire to clean/inspect/thouroughly grease.