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Opinions needed - Performed Optical Bump

yes boost gauge in the dash and it's seems to be working still. didn't push her very hard but I did see up to 7 or 8 lb's and yes when I pulled the line off the turbo I did hold my finger on it and there was vacuum but I didn't hold it there very long
 
NVW said:
Oh my God, Big T is going to explode. :)

Seriously, an exhaust leak will likely have the sound of each cyl. Pull the vac line off the turbo acuator and put your finger on it to see if there is a steady suction on it.
Click to expand...
actually the last time I had my exhaust apart I had started it up with the down pipe removed from the turbo expecting a REALLY loud noise, but it was just as quiet as if I hadn't disconnected it while idling !
 
the sound it's making is more like on an old gasser when you have the air cleaner off and try to drive. all you hear is the engine sucking air in a big way
 
I may be wrong on the exhaust leak, slide under the truck and feel for a leak on the crossover donut gaskets. If you still have decent boost, I doubt it is that.
 
ok just went out there and pulled the air filter. it was all still in place. didn't see anything wrong. the tube to the turbo as stiff as it is was all connected, so was the CDR. it's dark and cold out there! 46 degrees and I'm complaining it's cold! I did have a better look at the main line coming off the vacuum pump and it looks to be good as well. I had replaced the 3/8 hose from it to the plastic reducer a while back. one thing I did notice while shining the flashlight on the pancake part of the vacuum pump was right at the center area it looks like there is a metal cap of some sort about the size of a 50 cent piece. around that part looks to have some oil residue that looks as if it has been forced out in all directions. touching it to see if it's oil of whatnot and it's embedded greasy mess. not sure if that is an indication of anything.

when we went into town when this started, there wasn't any hesitation or changes on how it drove other than the sound. maybe after work tomorrow Ill look for an exhaust leak or I can try pulling the belt and drive around the block to see if the sound goes away.
 
Just having random thoughts in my head. what are the chances that some small cridder crawled up my 4" exhaust but not completely clogging it possibly making and leak I could have already more pronounced with this type of sound? I didn't think about checking how much flow was exiting the tail pipe earlier.

I guess I'll find out in the morning if I try and can't get up to highway speeds.
 
Your description of the vacuum pump sounds like it has blown its guts. To create a vacuum in the lines, it must try to pull air in through the wastegate/EGR solenoids' vents. When the solenoid(s) actuate, that closes the solenoid's vent and then applies vacuum to either the wastegate actuator or the EGR valve. So if the air the vacuum pump is drawing in can't go anywhere (out the vacuum pump's exhaust vent) then it will build up internal pressure until something gives, either the obstruction blocking the venting, or the pump. What you described sounds like the crimped outer housing has given away and it's now venting between the two housing halves, blowing out the internal lubrication and creating the whistling noise as it does so. The faster you drive (more engine rpms = more vacuum pump rpms = more pressure = louder whistling noise), the louder the escaping air gets.
 
it would be just my luck it did it as I was disconnecting batteries lol that would be my luck.

drove to work this morning and I could tell it's not building as much boost as it was. getting up to higher speeds my gauge would top out at 8 but only for a short second or two then back off to around 5 psi. this was where I would usually see up around 10 while getting up to speed. I guess it's not enough to notice a difference on how she performs but there is definitely ether a boost or vacuum leak going on.

ok now for some advice or opinions... what would I gain or loose by eliminating the vacuum pump and installing a spring wastegate controller? any fuel mileage loss doing this vs just replacing the vacuum pump? or are there any other short comings by doing away with it? a new pump is around $100 and the cost for me to eliminate it would be just a shorter belt and some modifications to the actuator.
 
I built My own turbo master device from some scrap I had setting in the garage. I did not want to destroy a perfectly good functioning actuator, glad I didnt.
It did work good ( home made turbo master ) but would occasionally trip the SES lamp. Fuel mileage dropped slightly, about 1 to the gallon.
I then went ahead and bought a new vacuum pump and installed it.
After getting the old pump off, I then removed the little bolts holding it together, I then could see that the rod had let go of the diaphragm.
There is oil contained within the housing and if Your pump has oil soaking the externals of it then it most likely is shot.
Personally, Myself, I would replace the pump.
 
What all would I need to change to at least remove the pump and drive it for a couple of weeks till I can order a new one? 1/2" shorter belt? I have some various size springs I can hook to the actuator arm for a temporary thing. if I pull it I won't have to worry about it locking up and leaving me without a vehicle getting to work
 
Frankly, @dbrannon79, I would just leave the old pump in place until you get the new one, as long as the pulley shaft bearing is ok. People drive 6.5TDs with bad pumps all the time - often for months and thousands of miles - before finally discovering/figuring out their pump is bad. Why get in there two separate times when you can R&R it in one shot and not buy a shorter belt and/or fabricate an idler pulley to replace the pump in the mean time?
 
@dbrannon79, no cause and effect of disconnecting battery cables and the vacuum pump failing. It was most likely already on its way to heading out before your code reset, if not already there. The pumps only last about +/-100K miles if ACDelco and usually much less if CKO. As a rule of thumb I've replaced mine as part of maintenance when I replaced injectors at the 100K interval.
 
I’ve always hated the vacuum pumps, their whole system. But the quality of the vacuum pump has improved tremendously from where they were first at. You should be able to get a new one for under $100

run that until you do big turbo upgrade imo.
 
I was just my luck, I'm sure it was on it's way out, but I shouldn't have even opened the hood!! instead of being dealt an ace of spades I got the joker card from the stack 🤪
 
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