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Oil pump?

Might try a different filter also, I take it you used these filters before and nothing like this??

Does point to a valve and or a blockage once oil starts to flow....

You could also borrow my primer, drain the oil and fill it with diesel fuel and spin the primer and turn the motor by hand or with the starter ( after removing the glows to let the combustion psi out) to maybe flush something out... could you have something in the pan that is getting sucked up against the pump screen???
 
I had an delco filter on it when all this started. I took it off and cut it open then found that I could just get these from work for about $3.00 a piece my cost. Something in the pan could be a possibility. I tried to keep all the old head gasket material out when I replaced the head by using rags in the area of the lifters and any oil drain holes but something could have found it’s way in.

I have a receipt from a po showing where the engine was rebuilt about 4 years ago. I’d of thought if anything was going to let loose it would of done it before now.

My hang up on pulling the engine is that if there was a blockage of some sort that something would not be getting oil and therefore I should see some material caused by the lack of lubication showing up in the filter. Right?
 
Just how long has this been going on???

Flushing would be easy in the truck, even dropping the pan isn't that bad, just drop the front diff enough....
 
It’s kind of hard to say. I drive a company truck so this is just a spare for the house. I put the head on back around September and drove it very little after that before it started this. I’ve been in the process of building a shop and finally got it finished so now I’m ready to really dig into this issue.

sctrailrider said:
Just how long has this been going on???

Flushing would be easy in the truck, even dropping the pan isn't that bad, just drop the front diff enough....
Click to expand...
I’ve never consider trying to flush and engine. Do you think I could actually flush say a small piece of rtv out with everything still in the block?
 
RTV will float and may get sucked into the system, RTV is a bad thing to use IMO...

With a primer, you might be able to feel a valve popping in & out through the drill.. A pump will take a good drill to turn it when everything in the system is good and tight.. better yet buy a gallon of "sea foam" and flush with that for a good while using a primer, just let it run for a good long time, turn the motor once in a while and maybe something will flush out and be drained when you refill with oil...
 
:blackalien::greyalien::astronaut: it's aliens. We used to call 'em gremlins or Murphy's...

I bought a 5 ton Dodge from a farmer with a rebuilt Pentastar engine and poor intermittent OP. Dropped the pan and found the pickup screen mostly full of pieces of RTV that squeezed out and dislodged from the rebuild. I replaced the pump since I had it in hand, popped both valve covers and blasted a few more pieces out. There were loose pieces in the pan that would get sucked up to the pickup as it warmed up.

I Sold it to a rancher for hauling water. He beat it up for many years and sold it to
another farmer. Still running, I have heard.
 
I can believe it I hate rtv. It gets over used a lot and leaks after some age. It looks like there was quite a bit of it used on the oil pan after the last rebuild.

I think I’m going to drop the pan tomorrow and do a close inspection of the bottom end if I don’t see anything I’ll install the new pump cross my fingers, drink a beer, ask the diesel gods to bless my old 6.5 and see what happens
 
I’m dropping the pan first and inspecting the bottom end then I’ll put the pump on if I don’t find any shot bearings or serious cracks. If I don’t find anything on the bottom end and I still have pressure problem then I’ll suspect cam bearings and start pulling
 
Ok I’m back. We had some interruptions that kept me from getting to the truck like I wanted but here’s what I found. So far I am not seeing any cracks and I’ve pulled #1 rod and main caps and the bearings look really good but I know that doesn’t mean can bearings are good.

The pickup screen on the pump had some rtv stuck to it. It was completely covered but there was more in the pan that could’ve fallen away after the engine was shut off.

Took the pump apart and as the pics show I found some damage to the gears which IMO means that pump is shot. How did it get that damage? I didn’t know but this engine was previously rebuilt so they could’ve reused that pump.

Also found some pieces of plastic in the pan. I haven’t removed valve covers yet but I’m thinking the buttons between the rockers. Is there anything else it could have come from? I’ve also included the pics of the plastic piecesCC424976-26AE-4734-9ABC-B8326CE67375.jpeg40542F21-C390-4ED4-8C92-D1F8B260FCFB.jpeg058199A2-3A78-4E40-A73C-423E63A511F3.jpegE6216E78-914F-4015-A669-22619C9FB345.jpeg
 
If you are not pulling the cam I would suggest the HV (High Volume) oil pump from the piston squirt blocks to buy time. The Debris clogging the oil pickup screen after startup explains the oil pressure changes. If the parts are nylon they could be buttons, but, from the prior rebuild. You need to be sure and pull the valve covers to check them and check for other debris in the head area. The only other plastic in the engine is the oil pump driveshaft retainer just above the oil pump.
 
When I had the covers off before I know none of the buttons where broke then but I’m still going to pull the covers to make sure. The pump shaft retainer was still in place when I pulled the pump. I think I will get the hv pump when I go back together but I want to look everything over some more to make sure I don’t miss any cracks in the block
 
I got to wondering if the bouncing of the pressure gauge could be caused by a loose timing chain. Since the pan is off I can see the chain and it’s seems it’s pretty loose.

Is there a spec or a general guideline on how much deflection there should be in the chain?
 
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