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No Power steering or brakes - PS Tank overflowing

btfarm

btfarm

America First!
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Location
Sandwich, Illinois
What the title says. I fired it up to back out of the shop and no PS or brake boost. The pump reservoir is overflowing.
Failed pump?
 
Fired it back up and gave it throttle and the PS worked some with it whining and the level went down some. Looking at a NAPA rem @t about $110 or AZ Duralast rem @ $88
I'm leaning NAPA
 
Junkyard or get a new one. Reman PS pumps are a gamble I lost several times and the debris they dump into the system on failure is enormous. AZ fires hero employees who stop robberies at gunpoint and their quality is dead last. You should also get a filter on the steering box return line. No telling if the pump dumped a bunch of debris through the system - you will know when you get the lines off. If so you are replacing the booster and PS box along with flushing or replacing the lines. You have to flush the cooler - AC flush works great on the cooler. The built in PS pump filters on reman PS pumps are a joke.
 
Here is a good one. Do not put one on the hydroboost return line. If the filter gets restricted and the filter bypass jams the brakes can stay locked up.
 
Mike, wonder if you get a reservior with the reman?

If you need to swap the tank to a new pump, remember to lube the big oring side and take ALL the bolts out!
 
I bought one from NAPA a few minutes before they closed (comes with reservoir). Swapped out the pulley and brackets ready to put in. Pulled the capplug off the reservoir and the damn thing was bent out of shape from somebody dropping it. End of story for today... I'll take the day off tomorrow, drive the wife to work and see about getting a good one. Yeah, I really would prefer new but I can't be without the truck for another day.
 
I'll have to see about flushing the Hydro and Steering box with the mightyvac tomorrow. Not sure how well that'll work but I'd like to get as much flushed ahead of time if possible.
 
I have used off the shelf oil/fuel filters to help 'clean' a PS system before. For example I ran a FRAM HPG1 for a week after a big failure before going with the smaller filter. It's the only Fram I let near my stuff.
 
I installed the rebuilt NAPA pump after evacuating what I could with the mighty vac. I flushed about 1/2 gallon through the system and just got back from about a 40 mile drive to pick Karla up. About 3/4 rural highway. The pump is whining some occasionally and I added about 1/2 pint to bring the level up. I checked the rotor temps at about 150* as soon as I pulled in so I don't see any dragging brakes. Got way more brake response than before. I'll see how it is after the 120 miles to work round trip tomorrow. Might need more bleeding
 
I have only done one hydro-boost and did not have that hard of time bleeding it but I did not open lines at the pump or steering box.

Just checking and suggesting .... My understanding is the hydro boost takes at least 3 full slow brake pumps with engine off to deflate the accumulator. It can take up to 20 slow turns lock to lock to expel all the air in the lines.

I don't know if engine off is better or if it matters. At least 1 you tube video suggested engine off. Might try both. I know you drove it but I think the lock to lock turns is suppose to max fluid flow.
 
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How much if any debris was in the old fluid and lines? I suggest a junkyard for a "known good" PS pump is new is out of the question. The remans are "absolutely broken/worn out" and maybe repaired properly if it was something stupid simple. I went through 5 of them on the burb and when I found a good one the reman PS box seal blew and lack of oil burned up the pump. It took 3 pumps to get a good reman after the seal failure.

Sadly debris in the system (if any) will make quick work of a replacement pump.
 
The system was really pretty clean since the old pump was just worn out and worked if I put some higher revs to it. The system had been flushed a couple of times before for maint. purposes. The change in response was a good indicator of what I suspected. That it was pretty worn out some time ago. Since I'm already into the pump for 100 bucks and it's warrantied I'll stick with that route. I'll try some more bleeding tonight. If it's bad, I'll get a replacement.
 
If you have the OE pump still, swap out the pressure relief valve and SPRING into the new pump. It's the big hex that your main pressure line connects into. It threads out normal counter-clockwise. Fitting-valve-spring stack-up.
 
No I already returned the core. They specifically said I have to leave the pressure relief valve in it to get credit. I bled it a bunch tonight. Different method. I'll see how it is tomorrow.
 
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