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No crank with whining noise

Husker6.5 said:
We're back to wiring and, once again, I'm imploring @Landon730 to get himself a set of factory wiring diagrams for his model year to follow along with. Once we finally verify that there is proper voltage into and out of the ignition switch THEN we check for voltage at the input terminal of the Park/Neutral switch when the key is in the Start position.
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I'm not getting any voltage on the purple wire out of the ignition switch. So do I need to go to Oreilly and get one? I don't think is the actual wires at this point, I wanna say the ignition switch but I'm not sure. Also I'm not sure where to find one of the books and I don't really have enough money
 
ak diesel driver said:
that purple and the red wire both look like they've gotten hot. Have you checked the connections like I asked? The crank fuse is also on a purple wire from what I can tell on diagrams
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ak diesel driver said:
that purple and the red wire both look like they've gotten hot. Have you checked the connections like I asked? The crank fuse is also on a purple wire from what I can tell on diagrams
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Yes connections are good. The wires don't feel like they've been hot and still have good color. Insulation isn't bubbled or soft.
 
Is the purple wire disconnected from the starter? Do so and test again. @ak diesel driver is saying the connector looks melted. So the terminals may be corroded in the connector.

I am not clear on the tested starter. You wired it direct to the battery incl the purple wire conection on starter and nothing? High current can make a high resistance connection look open. Test light across ground cable to battries and again positive bat cable. And hit starter jumper. Light on means bad cable or connection. Retest batts. Something not adding up.

With a 10amp fuse I would put 12v to purple wire to see if it's shorted. Fuse pops it's shorted somewhere.

You are making progress. It's harder without manual, but, you are tracing one wire.

All else fails run a new purple wire directly from switch to starter. Lift pump on crank is a separate new wire run to relay. Make sure the crank in gear is mechanical blocked.
 
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WarWagon said:
Is the purple wire disconnected from the starter? Do so and test again. @ak diesel driver is saying the connector looks melted. So the terminals may be corroded in the connector.

I am not clear on the tested starter. You wired it direct to the battery incl the purple wire conection on starter and nothing? High current can make a high resistance connection look open. Test light across ground cable to battries and again positive bat cable. And hit starter jumper. Light on means bad cable or connection. Retest batts. Something not adding up.

With a 10amp fuse I would put 12v to purple wire to see if it's shorted. Fuse pops it's shorted somewhere.

You are making progress. It's harder without manual, but, you are tracing one wire.

All else fails run a new purple wire directly from switch. Lift pump on crank is a separate new wire run to relay. Make sure the crank in gear is mechanical blocked.
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Batterys are on the charger at Oreilly right now because they are low. Once I get them back I'll test like you talking about and let you know what happens
 
I would get a cheap digital volt ohm meter as well. It is desperately needed at this point.
 
Landon730 said:
I'm not getting any voltage on the purple wire out of the ignition switch. So do I need to go to Oreilly and get one? I don't think is the actual wires at this point, I wanna say the ignition switch but I'm not sure. Also I'm not sure where to find one of the books and I don't really have enough money
Click to expand...

You can get the GM CD-ROM for about $15 off of eBay. I got the complete set of chassis manuals for $50 off of eBay. Consider the near-worthless Chilton manual is over $30 at O'Reilly's/Advance/Auto Zone/Pep Boys and the CD-ROM that gives you access to GM's on-line library is half that.
 
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