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Nickel Plated slip yoke - '01 Sierra

SnowDrift

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I called our local dealer to get a price on the slip yoke I need for this issue for my 2500HD Sierra - actually, mine doesn't make a noise, just feels like the drivetrain slumps off every time I go to move from a stop. I greased it years ago when I was replacing the pinion seal and I think it went away, but it wasn't really all that bad, then. Now it's worse and feels awful to drive, so I want to fix. I called the local dealership and after running my VIN, they told me the yoke I needed was 89058878, but it's only $125, my cost. Is there a chance it's not nickel plated? The rest I've seen are approaching the $300 mark for the nickel plated OEM part.

Can anyone here verify the part I need, by chance and verify it's plated?

'01 GMC Sierra 2500HD CC, SB, 4wd
 
GM still sells the nickel plated and non plated yokes. The nickel plated is s TSB item. If this is a 2500hd with a 6.0l/4l80e you should have a 32 spline yoke, all 3500's, allison, & zf6 had the larger yoke in them. So make sure which one you need. That said, that number comes up as nickel plated.
 
So why the nickel plating? Is it more smooth so it slides easier?

If so I would Think get your original chrome plated because that is dine for hydraulic rams (aka actuator) Cheaper rams have nickel but quality gets chromed. Same for fire arm parts like slides and barrels. Harder, more corrosive resistance, smoother surface. In the right place, chrome can get you home!
 
So why the nickel plating? Is it more smooth so it slides easier?

If so I would Think get your original chrome plated because that is dine for hydraulic rams (aka actuator) Cheaper rams have nickel but quality gets chromed. Same for fire arm parts like slides and barrels. Harder, more corrosive resistance, smoother surface. In the right place, chrome can get you home!
They teflon splines on two piece shafts etc........perhaps the nickle is to reduce corrosion but that is me with an uninformed guess.
 
The nickel plating creates a hard surface that doesn't wear down and get the excess play in it that allows the slight bind that gives you the bump/thud when the driveline unbinds, but it is also a slick surface that doesn't require regular re-greasing.
 
4L80E behind a 6.0L gasser - sorry, but I should have included that. So, it sounds like that is the correct number for the truck I have. For that price, it seems to only make sense to order the dealership part. Will there be anything on the tag that indicates the nickel plate or not, once it arrives? I would hate to go through the replacement work and have the same outcome.

What grease is considered safe to use to test before changing out to be sure this is the problem? 19257122 is a delco grease I saw recommended in a video, but it doesn't look like it is offered anymore.
 
I'm unsure. That shows up as a 32 spline, but the cross reference table on Denny's site doesn't show the number I am to have. I contacted Denny's a week or so ago and they told me the only way they can tell me what yoke I need is if I give them dimensions.
 
I bought a tub of the GM slip yoke and seal grease a couple years ago. It solved the driveline clunk on my 07 Tahoe
 
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