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New Turbo Set-Up For New Optimizer Rebuild

sctrailrider said:
Cam alone I call BS... his cam & his turbo together I still call BS.... show me .... he can't...

Ask for some kind of proof or something other than words and see where ya get.... if he doesn't SELL it it isn't any good he thinks...

I towed heave @ 20K + and ran a hybrid 35/40 and had more power than I ever needed, I don't know of many on this forum that have even tired it that way, it's ATT here just like it's Heath elsewhere, neither show much promise in the real world when compared to more better turbos...

I know a vendor that has 3 built hybrid turbos on the shelf, they are knockoff's but designed & built here for the vendor.. about the same price as the att .....

I will bet you won't like the att here in the south with the hills & such...
Click to expand...

I haven't tried a hybrid. (With the stall I have now it wouldn't make sense to try it either.) I have tried both a HX40II and currently run the ATT. The ATT pulls to redline especially on grades ranging from 7%-18% lasting for miles. Minor ant hills like the south has may require a different tune to shift sooner to avoid lugging as ant hills don't require much throttle. I was not happy with either turbo in the off the line from a light performance. As most of my time was spent at speed on grades it was a good tradeoff esp. going from 7MPG to 10.4MPG towing.

So the "promise" of the ATT has been well documented. Better turbos out there for a specific build or purpose - maybe. For a towing turbo that will pay for itself in increased MPG towing or in a motorhome it's proven. The trade off is that isn't quick off the green light. My documented videos include the slow starts with video of the exhaust clearing up as it gets enough RPM to light the turbo.

We have shown 2 examples on how to overcome the 'slow from a green light'. Member 6.5L started with a spool valve on a MT pickup and I followed with an auto suburban. I show another option of a high stall converter.

Spool valve videos with the ATT. Note the forum software change has FUBARED the video links used under the old software. Hopefully the site admins can fix them. http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/att-videos.39789/

So now the burden to show the hybrid 35/40 is the latest and greatest is on you and those running it. Seriously there are members on here that are interested in this. Offhand some that want to try a lower stall converter for example.
 
To add more, I see on HOLSET's site "a 4" down-pipe is required for the big HX40's" to get the full benefit of that turbo. Space for a full 4" is tight and if you have aux/dual HVAC you may have to re-route the lines then use an upper grade heat barrier on the turbine, down-pipe, heater hose, accumulator, air-box/canister and surrounding area IMO.
 
WW, I didn't mean for it to sound like a hybrid was a perfect fit all turbo, I do know with it their isn't a need to turn to upper rpm's just to get it to work. I liked it because for a manual tranny it would spool around 1200rpm, this I found great for getting a load moving from a start and still without needing high rpm's to clear smoke and have power left over also.. that's all I was attempting to state.

By all means keep what ya like and if you like it that's all that matters isn't it... I'm merely stating that a slower spooling turbo didn't work for me...

And to qualify my thinking I did test 3 different turbo combo's, started with a true super 40, with over 100cc's of fuel it was still very smokey till it spooled, the 35/40 with different blades than found in them originally in it was the better of the 3... time will tell how the he351ve does....

I didn't see much use in the diverter valve on a not so suitable turbo just to try and get it spooling quicker... a more suitable turbo seemed a more logical choice to me....
 
WarWagon said:
So now the burden to show the hybrid 35/40 is the latest and greatest is on you and those running it. Seriously there are members on here that are interested in this. Offhand some that want to try a lower stall converter for example.
Click to expand...

No burden here, I don't care what anyone else does or uses on their rig, it's got nothing to do with me or you. If you likey me likey.....
 
@sctrailrider
Tis the road I have gone down good or bad. Works for me, but, not everyone works their truck or has the terrain or heat I have to overcome - I forget this context all the time.

I would love to see a reasonable discussion of turbos esp. given the past bashing discussions. The ATT doesn't matter so much as what were the results with your turbo setup. The ATT does matter to me and I feel I make an attempt to help othes understand trade off being made. Just about anything is better than the GMx, but, understanding an RPM range vs. spool is hard to explain or understand. (Low RPM off road low speed is about the only place a GMx is any good.)

So in this way I maybe ask nicer for those to simply share. Few videos, dyno, bring the setup you have to life. In this way we all bring a little excitement of different things to the "forgotten diesels."
 
Now we have a large selection of affordable turbos and even blowers can be had on the cheap and fitted to the 6.2/6.5 IDI platform even big fuel is a reality now so I suspect these diesels will be around much longer than they would have w/o all the developments by those who tinker w/them......
 
Agreed WW.... I'm all for to each their own... As stated everyone has different driving needs and terrain to contend with and let us not forget everyone has the motor set up differently and that really matters as to the entire package...

And I think a window fan would be better than a gmX turbo...

We will agree to disagree.....
 
sctrailrider said:
Agreed WW.... I'm all for to each their own... As stated everyone has different driving needs and terrain to contend with and let us not forget everyone has the motor set up differently and that really matters as to the entire package...

And I think a window fan would be better than a gmX turbo...

We will agree to disagree.....
Click to expand...
Again, I cant help but commend you again for your trip into the unknown of those heads............
 
The pistons in my optimizer are .010 shorter and .020 oversized. I'm told it is about 20.1 compression ratio. My buddy that has a big block twin turbo gas setup says that I should ask you guys to chime in about thicker head gaskets to give the turbo more volume , but it seams to me that it would lag. I do plan on using the ATT. Thanks in advance
 
More air = more fuel = more power = more cylinder pressure which might = more head gasket/rod/heat problems.
 
Lowering compression allows you to add more boost. I'm in the group that says leave the compression high, and get more with less turbo, add higher flash point fuel with less btu to even out.
 
Okay, I plan on using my stock pump the usual intake/exhaust mods and the att. Thicker head gaskets or no? Probably standard thickness? Thanks
 
You can run the +.010 it won't be noticeable difference if the not building it really heavy. Felpro or Victor Reinze gaskets only for the head gaskets.
 
Lower compression means the engine gets harder to start cold. At 100 degrees out cold glow plugs still help starting so cold is relative. The reason we have 21:1 and the Olds 5.7 had ~22:1 was to start with low injection pressures of the day.

Compression means power. It also means higher pressures and higher NOx. To lower NOx the modern diesel trend is lower compression and higher injection pressures.

Turbo's make up for lower compression, but, only after you have enough RPM and light the turbo's off.

Have you checked to make sure the block wasn't decked and requires the +0.10 gaskets anyway? Or is this why the pistons are 0.10 shorter?
 
Okay so I need to de-glaze the cylinders. A stock 6.5 bore is 4.050. My bore is 4.070 being .020 over.

I'm going to use the multiple ball brush honing tool. Anyone know what grit that I should use?

Any advice is helpful.

Thanks,

Chris
 
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