I just bought a 1997 Trek RV with a 6.5 diesel. It overheated and quit running on the way from Bellflower, CA to Salt Lake City just outside of Baker, CA. I was towed to two different repair shops before the owner of the last one said I had blown a head gasket or cracked the head by overheating and continuing to drive. I didn't know I was supposed to downshift. My car does it automatically and the diesel "expert" friend in So Cal where I bought it said it was a good engine, just put it in gear and drive. The Las Vegas mechanic said he had a sealant that he put in his diesel 4 years ago and it worked perfectly. So he charged me $2700 and got it running. The problem is, it uses three quarts of coolant every other day. I was advised to drive it at night to Redlands, CA to the Redlands Truck and RV center to get it really fixed. Any suggestions about this? HELP?
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New person to this site - Valerie
- Thread starter Valerie
- Start date
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Welcome to thetruckstop Valerie.
I`m not real knowledgeable on over heating issues, there are some members in here that are and should be along and give You the best information on how to get the unit to a good repair facility.
It might be better to drive with the radiator cap in the release position to keep from building pressure in the cooling system.
How does the oil on the dipstick appear, ? Brownish or milky is not a good sign and can wipe out engine bearings.
How far from the RV dealer was You when it started to over heat ?
I`m not real knowledgeable on over heating issues, there are some members in here that are and should be along and give You the best information on how to get the unit to a good repair facility.
It might be better to drive with the radiator cap in the release position to keep from building pressure in the cooling system.
How does the oil on the dipstick appear, ? Brownish or milky is not a good sign and can wipe out engine bearings.
How far from the RV dealer was You when it started to over heat ?
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Welcome to TTS!
From the description, a diagnosis is not looking all that good. Sorry . . .
Best bet is to find somebody who is still familiar with the 6.5 motor. So far, the only advice that I agree with is to get the motor to a *good* (not just any) mechanic ASAP. Going through coolant makes something bad even worse if the coolant is going into the motor. Toward finding that 6.5 mechanic, check the parking / service lot; if there are other 6.5 vehicles, then you found Home.
While hoping that the repair is along the lines of a head gasket, the history of overheating and now high consumption of coolant might raise the question of whether it is time for replacing the motor as the 6.5 does not usually like either of those two things for an extensive amount of time.
In addition to the motor, I'd have the cooling stack checked if the issue is something other than the thermostat stuck in the closed position.
Again, finding somebody familiar with the 6.5 is key here as going down the wrong path (example: extensive diagnosis when the motor is clearly shot) can lead to unnecessarily spending money. To the point, you already have $2,700 worth of repairs which are not looking like a good return on investment.
Toward getting good inputs from the expertise on this forum, just remember that we are limited to what we read and see by way of pictures. So the quality of advice is directly proportional to the quality of information.
From the description, a diagnosis is not looking all that good. Sorry . . .
Best bet is to find somebody who is still familiar with the 6.5 motor. So far, the only advice that I agree with is to get the motor to a *good* (not just any) mechanic ASAP. Going through coolant makes something bad even worse if the coolant is going into the motor. Toward finding that 6.5 mechanic, check the parking / service lot; if there are other 6.5 vehicles, then you found Home.
While hoping that the repair is along the lines of a head gasket, the history of overheating and now high consumption of coolant might raise the question of whether it is time for replacing the motor as the 6.5 does not usually like either of those two things for an extensive amount of time.
In addition to the motor, I'd have the cooling stack checked if the issue is something other than the thermostat stuck in the closed position.
Again, finding somebody familiar with the 6.5 is key here as going down the wrong path (example: extensive diagnosis when the motor is clearly shot) can lead to unnecessarily spending money. To the point, you already have $2,700 worth of repairs which are not looking like a good return on investment.
Toward getting good inputs from the expertise on this forum, just remember that we are limited to what we read and see by way of pictures. So the quality of advice is directly proportional to the quality of information.
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DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Welcome, but sorry to hear on such unfortunate events.
I am concerned with the damage that was potentially done to the engine however MUCH more concerned that you paid $2,700 for a potential "stop leak" type of fix and are still loosing coolant. This is NEVER a good fix, purely temporary to get you out of 6 lanes of traffic type thing and I still wouldn't do it. That shop took advantage of you based on your description! Did they perform a coolant pressure test? IMO replacement of the gaskets could be in the realm of $2,700.
If it indeed is a head gasket or warped head the only correct fix is at minimum an top end tear-down to inspect and replace the gaskets/heads. Another option is if you can't find a reputable shop is to throw us your location and see if anyone on the board is in the area and can help take a look at. These engines have been out of production since the early 2000's so not many shops have the knowledge.
If the truck quit running due to the overheat (i.e. you didn't shut it off and it shut off/stalled on its own) that doesn't sound good. You shouldn't have to manually "downshift" this setup. However it should be known the 6.5 isn't a powerhouse up and down the hills and you may have to let your speed drop some. The 6.5 can be a great engine (cheapest of the diesels) if maintained and watched. IMO if you want a turn key RV the experts 'shoulda recommended a gas engine equipped rig. But another thing to remember is even if you did purchase a gas rig at the 1997 vintage things are bound to go bad due to age. Its the price you pay for new vs. used.
I advise not to drive it at all until a proper diagnosis can be made.
I am concerned with the damage that was potentially done to the engine however MUCH more concerned that you paid $2,700 for a potential "stop leak" type of fix and are still loosing coolant. This is NEVER a good fix, purely temporary to get you out of 6 lanes of traffic type thing and I still wouldn't do it. That shop took advantage of you based on your description! Did they perform a coolant pressure test? IMO replacement of the gaskets could be in the realm of $2,700.
If it indeed is a head gasket or warped head the only correct fix is at minimum an top end tear-down to inspect and replace the gaskets/heads. Another option is if you can't find a reputable shop is to throw us your location and see if anyone on the board is in the area and can help take a look at. These engines have been out of production since the early 2000's so not many shops have the knowledge.
If the truck quit running due to the overheat (i.e. you didn't shut it off and it shut off/stalled on its own) that doesn't sound good. You shouldn't have to manually "downshift" this setup. However it should be known the 6.5 isn't a powerhouse up and down the hills and you may have to let your speed drop some. The 6.5 can be a great engine (cheapest of the diesels) if maintained and watched. IMO if you want a turn key RV the experts 'shoulda recommended a gas engine equipped rig. But another thing to remember is even if you did purchase a gas rig at the 1997 vintage things are bound to go bad due to age. Its the price you pay for new vs. used.
I advise not to drive it at all until a proper diagnosis can be made.
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
In Montana there is a " Lemon Law ", might be it could be in affect in Cali too. A phone call to the RV place, requesting assistance for repairs replacement or buy back, no satisfaction, phone call to a reliable attorney.
Those stickers that says no warrantee implied, usually glued to a used lots vehicles window, does not imply in states with a lemon law.
Those stickers that says no warrantee implied, usually glued to a used lots vehicles window, does not imply in states with a lemon law.
Hi Marty, Jay and Slug, and thanks for the information. This is Will (Valerie's husband) monitoring and replying for her. She is still asleep in a parking lot in Las Vegas right now and I am in Columbia, MD worried about her. She bought the RV ($15,000) from a private party who lied to her about the condition and that's history. It appears the "mechanic" in Las Vegas also saw a sucker and got another $2700 out of her and then sent her out on the street. When she wakes up we will decide what to do. We are not kids (she is 55 and I am 77) not rich (we both still work) and not mechanically adept. Since we are totally unschooled about diesel engines, our plan so far is for her to call the reputable (so we have heard) dealer in Redlands, CA (240 miles away from her) and ask him for advice (the shop comes with very high recommendations from the Trek support group), then drive there during the coolest part of the day (night) and continue to monitor the coolant and temperature until she gets there. At this point does anyone agree / disagree and why? Valerie really likes the setup of the Trek with the large rear bathroom and overhead bed and our plan is to live in it for the next 2 - 3 years so a new engine is NOT out of the question for the long run. Again, thanks for every and all suggestions, she has been an RVer for 5 days and I've never seen it yet. Great start, huh?
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
Will,
Please have her pull the oil dipstick and determine what the engine oil consistency/color is as Marty recommended earlier. If there is coolant contamination of the oil the truck may not make it that far and will risk turning this into a complete engine overhaul. From the sounds it is using a substantially large amount of coolant. It sounds like your willing to do an engine swap, but that isn't going to help the scenario much right now.
Is this "reputable" dealer a GM dealership? Like I said before some of the newer techs will not know much about the 6.5L as its a 20 year old dinosaur. Not knocking Trek, but are they just recommending a dealer or do they utilize them? Just an FYI around my house the most reputable shop w/6.5L knowledge is a place called D&W diesel. Need to look for places similar to that.
IMO, I would setup a long haul and have the rig transported to your house in MD. Fly her back. We can offer a lot more help if you could check it our in your driveway, utilize pictures, videos, etc. In all honesty it also sounds like the damage has been done.
What exactly does the work order say for the $2,700? Did they replace the head gaskets? I would call and find out if their paperwork doesn't say. It may help you in the long run. Wish I was in the area to lend a hand.
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JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Toward driving 240 miles as it is now; this is an absolute gamble. From the descriptions so far, I'd give a fair to poor confidence level in getting to Redlands. And even if it does make the 240 miles, depending on where that coolant is going, it might turn a fixable solution a motor replacement.
My vote is to tow.
PM sent regarding a different option.
My vote is to tow.
PM sent regarding a different option.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Agree with DieselSlug about checking the oil for contamination. Within the realm of possibilities is that the shop that did the $2,700 'fix' did not properly tighten a hose and a few turns of a clamp will stop the leak. Toward this possibility, is there any coolant pooling under the RV?
If the coolant is leaking by way of a hose, then it would raise my confidence level toward driving to Redlands. But given the statements so far, not by much.
If the coolant is leaking by way of a hose, then it would raise my confidence level toward driving to Redlands. But given the statements so far, not by much.
Thanks Slug, wish you were here too but I will have her check that first thing. It looks like you are 303 miles north of where we live right now - Columbia, MD. Are you going to the big RV show in Hershey, PA this week. Supposed to be the biggest in the US for the whole year. My job is to look at composting toilets and other nifty stuff for self contained living. I'll have her check the oil as soon as she answers her phone.
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
One thing to think about, if she leaves Las Vegas (LV) she will be going from a decently populated area (with shops/potential help/places to stay/phone service heading 240 miles towards Los Angeles (LA). If that van does fully die (most likely on the side of the road) in between LV & LA; mobile service, help, places to stay are much fewer!
DieselSlug
Well-Known Member
We will actually be camping the end of this week about an hour from home (helps as I can travel to work daily and not use all of my vacation!)
Hopefully she got a decent's night sleep with a fresh start!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Hi Valerie and Will- good name btw! Haha
I live in Boulder City right next to Vegas and grew up in Vegas. I am not at work today and could look at it if you want for free.
I have a descent amount of experience with the 6.5, was a pro mechanic for years, and was also a MAC tools guy so I know several trustable shops as well as many to stay away from.
After knowing there is no coolant mixed with the oil, simply look if it is still oil or looks like milk- the next thing in driving is drive until it gets to 210 then pull over and let it cool off. I had a truck that i could only drive 2 miles then wait 1/2 hour and had to do that to get it home to work on. Really an impossibility of any serious distance. In that case a tow is the answer.
I ask what shop in redding, I know a couple people that live there.
Check you pm (top of screen & looks like envelope) - I sent my cell number.
I live in Boulder City right next to Vegas and grew up in Vegas. I am not at work today and could look at it if you want for free.
I have a descent amount of experience with the 6.5, was a pro mechanic for years, and was also a MAC tools guy so I know several trustable shops as well as many to stay away from.
After knowing there is no coolant mixed with the oil, simply look if it is still oil or looks like milk- the next thing in driving is drive until it gets to 210 then pull over and let it cool off. I had a truck that i could only drive 2 miles then wait 1/2 hour and had to do that to get it home to work on. Really an impossibility of any serious distance. In that case a tow is the answer.
I ask what shop in redding, I know a couple people that live there.
Check you pm (top of screen & looks like envelope) - I sent my cell number.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Highly recommend taking Will L up on the offer!
This way you will gain confidence on the way ahead and acceptable risks for options.
This way you will gain confidence on the way ahead and acceptable risks for options.
Thank you.
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Probably about right after labor.
I would want to know more about what motor they plan to install as a refirb / reman 6.5 is another gamble. Would not surprise me if the shop actually puts in a rebuilt Jasper.
If the decision is another motor, there are *new* Optimizer motors available and that is the way I would spend my money. Short version is that the Optimizer corrects the weak links from earlier generations of 6.5. Another path is to look into swapping over to a Cummins.