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New member in SC
- Thread starter nitrojim
- Start date
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Welcome to TTS NJ.
Remove the intake to get the hoses properly replaced.
And Will L will warn You about using only SAE30 R9 hose.
About the only thing that the parts stores carries is R4.
Might be a good diesel shop in Your area that packs the R9 hose.
Thank you Mr.Marty......I got an intake gasket and the right hoses today.....only thing now is getting my old broke up self under the hood....This is my first GM 6.2, the couple that bought it new pulled a camper and kept crazy info on every thing ever done to the old truck..I think it will make me a good play toy....I will say this and I have had a Power Stroke way back, this 6.2 is very loud....thanks again......."Peace"
MrMarty51
Well-Known Member
Also, a piece of clear 1/4” fuel hose, about six inches long.
Remove that black rubber hose in a sort of an upside down U from off the front of the injection pump to the return pipe/tube off the front left side of the engine. Install that clear hose in its place.
Start the engine with clear hose in place.
Watch for air bubbles, or even a foamy appearance.
If You see any of that with the enjun running there is a source of air intrusion.
Leave the clear hose in place so if ever there is any issues of rough running or hard to start, that hose will be there for a diagnostic purposes.
Where in SC are you?
I'm in Pauline, SE of Spartanburg...
dbrannon79
I'm getting there!
Welcome to TTS @nitrojim were all here to help in most any way we can. sounds like you have you a well cared for rig. post up some pictures when you can, we all love to see a little truck porn LOL.
fill in you signature in your account details about your truck and everything that has been done along it's life. all this info will show up each time you post for all to see and will remind us what were working on and make a plan of attack.
there's lots of great down to earth folks here ready to lend a hand and will give the shirt off their back for others. One of the best forums and group of people I have ever came across.
Feel free to browse around and chime in on other threads too. we don't just talk about trucks, we talk about everything under the sun here
fill in you signature in your account details about your truck and everything that has been done along it's life. all this info will show up each time you post for all to see and will remind us what were working on and make a plan of attack.
there's lots of great down to earth folks here ready to lend a hand and will give the shirt off their back for others. One of the best forums and group of people I have ever came across.
Feel free to browse around and chime in on other threads too. we don't just talk about trucks, we talk about everything under the sun here
- Staff
- #10
Welcome to the Truck Stop!
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Welcome.
Post a few pics of your engine bay. If your fuel filter is a huge cube- long term plan on removing that system and getting a spin on set up. The cubes are known nightmares for leaking fuel, sucking air.
You have two “fuel pumps”. Learn the difference and what you have.
First is a LP (Lift Pump). It has one line in and one line out. This pulls fuel from the tank and pushes it to the ip (injection pump). The ip has one line in, 8 steel injection lines out to the injectors, and a return line that is 1/4” diameter coming out the front- this is the one to use clesr tubing on. Fuel-line.com sells clear fuel line rated for modern diesel with ethanol in it- but it is not rated for abrasion.
Your LP is either mechanical and mounted to the right front side of the engine in front of the motor mount. GM stopped using these because when they fail under certain conditions it can pump fuel into the crankcase/oilpan and ruins the engine.
Otherwise you have an electric LP under the truck mounted to the frame below driver seat area. This style LP- the best version is the AC Delco EP158. It will last from 1-4 years.
Both styles will continue making noise and engine will run when they are not producing properly. Low fuel pressure hurts mpg & power- but most importantly it damages the ip which is expensive and a pain to replace.
Adding a fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted in dash is best- tap it at the ip inlet with a steel T fitting. Electric is best so no fuel enters cab. 3-8 psi is your range, 5 psi being desired. Above that it actuates timing advance.
Water is a huge killer of the fuel system. A Fass water filter is best one available.
Factory water separator is junk.
The rich and famous just use a complete FASS LP system with their filters- expensive but lasts forever and does the best. Then you eliminate all the original stuff. Doing it as a constant flow system will have it polish the fuel which cleaner fuel makes ip & injectors work best& last longer
Post a few pics of your engine bay. If your fuel filter is a huge cube- long term plan on removing that system and getting a spin on set up. The cubes are known nightmares for leaking fuel, sucking air.
You have two “fuel pumps”. Learn the difference and what you have.
First is a LP (Lift Pump). It has one line in and one line out. This pulls fuel from the tank and pushes it to the ip (injection pump). The ip has one line in, 8 steel injection lines out to the injectors, and a return line that is 1/4” diameter coming out the front- this is the one to use clesr tubing on. Fuel-line.com sells clear fuel line rated for modern diesel with ethanol in it- but it is not rated for abrasion.
Your LP is either mechanical and mounted to the right front side of the engine in front of the motor mount. GM stopped using these because when they fail under certain conditions it can pump fuel into the crankcase/oilpan and ruins the engine.
Otherwise you have an electric LP under the truck mounted to the frame below driver seat area. This style LP- the best version is the AC Delco EP158. It will last from 1-4 years.
Both styles will continue making noise and engine will run when they are not producing properly. Low fuel pressure hurts mpg & power- but most importantly it damages the ip which is expensive and a pain to replace.
Adding a fuel pressure gauge permanently mounted in dash is best- tap it at the ip inlet with a steel T fitting. Electric is best so no fuel enters cab. 3-8 psi is your range, 5 psi being desired. Above that it actuates timing advance.
Water is a huge killer of the fuel system. A Fass water filter is best one available.
Factory water separator is junk.
The rich and famous just use a complete FASS LP system with their filters- expensive but lasts forever and does the best. Then you eliminate all the original stuff. Doing it as a constant flow system will have it polish the fuel which cleaner fuel makes ip & injectors work best& last longer