1.
Yes, some dual tank systems run the lift pump after the switching valve. Your switching valve should be a 4 line system that has supply & return for main tank- then switches to use supply and return for aux tank. You can NOT have one return line only to the main tank. Imagine it is full, you drive on the aux tank and the ip pumps the excess fuel to the main tank. It will overflow or build pressure in the return line and shut off the engine.
Idk the switching valve used on that rig.
The other way people do multiple tanks is use a low cost electric pump to draw from the aux tank and it feeds to the main tank only. As the main tank runs low, they turn on a switch that refills the man from the aux. Then you don’t use a switching valve. Then the expensive lift pump with filtering system is only from the main tank to the ip. And if the auxiliary pump fails- it’s a nuisance not a vehicle break down nor does it negatively affect the ip.
Ideally you want a pump as close to the fuel tank as possible. It is a pump, not a suck. All pumps last longer & perform better pumping than sucking.
2. Ive no idea if powermaster makes a 24v version. The 12v version is part number 9052. You could call them up on Monday and ask them about it.
But if you are already running a 12v system for the glow plugs- then you should be able to feed a starter from your 12v battery.
Or just stay with the 24v starters- if you do that I just suggest searching for a good deal on a second one and take the time to learn a bench rebuild or find a rebuilder near you. Most big cities have one or two.
3.
Yes the fass pump returning the secondary line to the filler hose so that it recirculates all the time to polish the fuel is more effort. A second switching valve would be the easiest. Moeller sells very reliable 3 way valves on amazon or most any boating supply store.
Whatever you do on your fuel system, keep these things in mind:
There will be ethanol in your diesel fuel so rubber lines are always SAE30R9 - everything else fails from the inside out so you don’t see leaks- things just break one day if it isn’t that line.
No brass, copper, bronze.
A fuel gauge T close to the ip inlet as possible with no rubber lines after it will pay for itself. 5psi is your desired pressure at the ip inlet.
Never use emulsifiers.
If you choose to stay with the mechanical lift pump- VERY FREQUENTLY check your oil bu smelling the dipstick. Any fuel smell means do not start the engine. Replace the fuel pump and do an oil change BEFORE starting the engine. I can’t tell you how many times I heard “I was just driving it 1 mile to my house to fix it” when they got to buy a new engine. It ruins block, crank, rods, cam, oil pump drive, ip- just everything that spins inside the engine.
On the transmission- If I had heard your idea before you spent money, I would have said 4L80E (or 4L85E) with the slight less overdrive is the majorly proven transmission. Gear ratios:
All I can say at this point is I hope your’s works but you are like the 120th person I have heard try it and not a single person has gotten over 25,000 miles yet. So lawyer up now. Dot every i and cross every t.
