• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

New from WNC

ballencd

New Member
Messages
7
Reaction score
18
Hello, New to the site but have had diesels for 30 years or so. I am in the transmission conversion process on my M1010 (Military Ambulance on a K30 chassis) and have some questions for the group. Most of what I am doing is my first time so there may be a lot.
1777908066949.jpeg
 
Hello, New to the site but have had diesels for 30 years or so. I am in the transmission conversion process on my M1010 (Military Ambulance on a K30 chassis) and have some questions for the group. Most of what I am doing is my first time so there may be a lot.
View attachment 99339

Welcome to The Truck Stop. What part of WNC are you in?
 
I have gutted the box on the back and am designing a camper setup. Bed/frig/hot water/heat/solar/possible a/c but first is the 6L80 transmission. I've had and daily drove a 1986 M1009 for 18 years before the kids complained about the missing back doors and a/c so I sold that and bought a 1988 Suburban with a/c and barn doors. Then I found a good deal on a 1991 Suburban so I bought it. It is manual windows/locks with the 5.7 TBI engine and 700R4 transmission but it does have a/c. They have been my daily drive for the last 6 years or so when I found this M1010. I changed out the electrical system to the same style found in all the other CUCV's, removing the 24V alternators and Duvac (sp??) regulator and put in (2) 160A, 12V Leece Neville isolated ground alternators, each charging one 12V battery. I also pulled the resistor bank and changed the glow plug supply to 12V. I also removed the glow plug controller and just have a manual button to operate the glow plugs. On my M1009 I burnt a lot of plugs until I went with the manual control. Still running the 24V starter but am considering changing it to 12V. I have read that 24Vis more effcient for solar and heavy load appliances so I may just stay with the 24V system. I'd be interested if anyone on here has done either with a CUCV? 12V vs 24V???
I also swapped in a new mechanical lift pump, new drivers side fuel tank and sender and then installed a passenger side fuel tank and sender with a 6 port valve that switches the gauge to the tank in use.
I plan to insulate the back with rigid foam when I get the interior designed and all my wires and plumbing needed for the camper. I also plan on closing up the back doors and installing a access door behind the passenger door. Of course a few windows, a trailer hitch, backup and side view cameras....the list goes on.
1778101592430.jpeg

New fuel door on Passenger side.
 
We were already talking pm, I mentioned the engine killing risk of the manual LP & gave EP158 or FASS recommendation.


The 24v starter is great. All the way until you have to replace it.
In the military- a report I read said #1 injury of wheeled mechanics was the 165# tires on hmmwvs. The #2 injury is replacing the starter. Your starter is way more than double the weight of a normal starter. So be seriously careful when you do have to change it. The 24volt starter does an amazing job spinning the engine really fast to help starting. If you do swap to the 12 volt- get the PowerMaster 9052. There is a different front support bracket you need for it but those are cheap and plentiful. For hummer/hmmwv guys who replace the huge starter like yours- I tell them buy 2 powermasters. Two of them are still cheaper than one prestolite and weighs less. They just have to find a spot to carry the spare
Your prestolite is advertised as waterproof but once they have 15,000 miles of heat on them, they often are not sealed anymore. Being sealed traps the carbon from the brushes as they wear causing a shorter life. So guys who dont waterford a lot will remove the seals. The powermaster isn’t waterproof but several guys (including me) have put them underwater with no issues because it dries out fast. Powermaster cranks about same rpm as 24volt. The regular AC Delco and other 12v starters spin much slower making cold starts worse
 
Back
Top