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My Ongoing Repair Thread for my 93 - Lots of Pics, Vids, and Details. Please HELP!

Classified said:
Yeah the lines are pretty bad. I looked around on that LMC site but I had a real hard time finding anything. They dont have fuel line slisted, the only thing close that I could find is "fuel Supply" and it was just one prebent hard line, not the whole thing. Can I just use rubber fuel hose and ditch the hard lines all together?
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I was wondering this myself. Fuel injection line should be plenty tough enough and is a heck of a lot easier to work with.
 
Great looking truck.

Well, since you have no PCM to tell the fuel to stop flowing and the OPS maintains oil pressure after you shut down then I can see that it would still run the lift pump which maybe still works then and since compression is making the burn and not a spark then it could run continuously until fuel stops pumping.

What tells the non-electronic IPs to stop pushing fuel or start?
 
I suspect his shutdown solenoid on IP isn't closing, and it is shutting down when oil pressure to OPS bleeds power to the lift, possibly somebody gutted it, but truck should shut off with key off, may explain the hard starts, as IP with lift pump as the shutdown mechanism, is allowing the IP to suck down all fuel from lines, resulting in hard starts next go round.
 
Rubber hose rated for Diesel fuel service will work, you'll just need to keep close eye on it making sure it doesn't harden and crack from UV/Ozone/road chemical exposure, also has to be Diesel rated as it may try to dissolve and gum up your IP/injectors using std rubber hose.
 
Turbine Doc said:
I suspect his shutdown solenoid on IP isn't closing, and it is shutting down when oil pressure to OPS bleeds power to the lift, possibly somebody gutted it, but truck should shut off with key off, may explain the hard starts, as IP with lift pump as the shutdown mechanism, is allowing the IP to suck down all fuel from lines, resulting in hard starts next go round.
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So is there a way to test it? Or should I just replace it? Is it the connector thats right on top of the IP with the 2 male space connectors poiting straight up? The 2 wire harness that plugs into looks like it go either way, I was just looking at that the other day.
 
I'm away from my reference books but IIRC mech IP has 2 plugs one for the TPS, and other for shut down solenoid, test by unplugging while truck is running at idle, when you pull power from solenoid truck should shut down, same as turning off the key, I don't think pulling TPS shuts it down, so pull them both if 1st one does not shut it down. I'm more familiar with the DS4 electronic IP, possibly one of our Mech IP guys will show up soon and give 100% answer. Solenoid is energized open, loss of power spring inside is supposed to close the plunger, shutting off fuel to the IP
 
Hmmm thats interesting stuff Ive not heard about before, so perhaps there is constant 12v source to the IP, check the voltage with truck off. Otherwise maybe like TD said someone gutted the solenoid.
 
Would not be constant 12v unless somebody miswired it, 12V should only be there with key on, all Diesels I've ever encountered either have a solenoid shut off (that spring loads shut with loss of power) or a mechanical one you pull on to set IP to fuel shutdown stop, otherwise no way to shut them down unless you block the air intake tract, some Diesels have run away flappers for that.

DS4 IP can be key off and have a gutted plunger, as FSD/PMD loses voltage with key off, and IP fuel solenoid closes, but really supposed to stop with the shut down solenoids plunger.
 
Classified said:
So is there a way to test it? Or should I just replace it? Is it the connector thats right on top of the IP with the 2 male space connectors poiting straight up? The 2 wire harness that plugs into looks like it go either way, I was just looking at that the other day.
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One of the wires is for the on/off solinoid and the other is for the cold starting advance, it advances the injection timing to aid in cold starting. This maybe part of your cold starting problems so check to make sure you are getting power to it, once engine warms up then the temp sensor on the crossover drops 12v power to the cold advance.

Your glow plug controller should stay on for 8 to 10 seconds first time you turn the key on in the morning, it needs all of that time with the G60,s or you will have some hard starting. The glow plug controller is under the bores nest of wires at the back of the engine next to the fuel filter.

How old is the fuel in this truck, has it been sitting a long time? Have you checked the lift pump flow yet, the Mechanical pumps should have a min of 5psi from lift pump, the injection pump uses this psi to contol the timing advance, so you can get a bit of rough idle without enough psi to injection pump. Looks like you have a bit of a bad injector, don't run it hard this way or you will score a piston/cylinder wall. You will need to find the bad injector before you start driving the truck. I would stongly suggest getting them tested if that smoking doesn't clear up after a little more running around the yard and you get the other work done on it.
 
WOW so much info on this site. Looks like I might as well just print all of this thread and take it with me tomorrow. I appreciate the help and cant wait to get working tomorrow.

I have not tested the LP flow yet, that will be the first thing I do tomorrow.

As fopr testing injectors, who can do that? and is it ok to just replace bad injectors with new ones? or do you get them rebuilt?

Also, I see alot of people recommend heath diesel but im trying to keep this as cheap as possible and ssdiesel has way cheaper prices. is there a reason for that? Much of thier pricing is 30-40% cheaper than HDP. The IP that ss sells is $700 versus HDP at $1900. Thats a HUGE difference. I dont need this truck to last forever, a good 2-3 years would be great, after that it will just be a backup truck.

The timing advance/cold start DOES work, so im guessing that its either a wiring issue or the solenoid.

The diesel fuel in the tank is a couple months old but it acts no different in the summer when it gets used every day.

Sorry for not directly quoting each reply, I can get lazy sometimes, LOL
 
Turbine Doc said:
Hey Tracy I wasn't sure but thought there was 3rd sensor on mech IP, HPCA control, fuel shutoff, & TPS on side of the throttle arm, that correct ??
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The older 6.2 mech. pumps had a connection to raise the pressure in the ip by restricting the return. Newer mech.ip's don't have that. The fuel shut off iside the ip must be weak or sticking that it doesn't shut off right away.
I used rubber fuel line on my 91 when the steel lines rusted out. Check your rear brake lines. They will be the next to rust out.
 
bk95td said:
The older 6.2 mech. pumps had a connection to raise the pressure in the ip by restricting the return. Newer mech.ip's don't have that. The fuel shut off iside the ip must be weak or sticking that it doesn't shut off right away.
I used rubber fuel line on my 91 when the steel lines rusted out. Check your rear brake lines. They will be the next to rust out.
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Cool, I will remove the solenoid to inspect it. I hope to get lucky and find its just "stuck".

the rear brake lines were just replaced. from the MC all the way to the back and along the axle and wheel hydralics. The fronts look fine.
 
On my '93 there is a pink wire for the shutdown solinoid, a green to the cold advance and 2 wires to the TPS on the side. Not a lot to it, if you pop off the top of the IP be very carefull how you put the cover back on as it done incorrectly the engine will run away.
Don
 
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