My Ongoing Repair Thread for my 93 - Lots of Pics, Vids, and Details. Please HELP!

[Classified]

I started a thread on the other site since thats all I knew that existed. Some directed me over here and and im now going to start posting here since it seems like the help has dried up over on my other thread.

Little introduction, I bought this 3500 with the diesel a year ago for my lawncare company. the engine was supposedly rebuilt but no paper work. The engine was definately pulled since they did a terrible job putting it back in. Its been a work truck its whole life and is pretty worn down but since it runs pretty good, I want to try and repair it to use it for a few more years. The truck is pretty rusty along the bottoms of the doors and under the flatbed area. So enough of my babbling, I would like to get on to the meat. Just give me a few mins to work on the next post.

Thanks everyone and I hope you all can help me out!!! :thumbsup:

 

[JiFaire]

Welcome aboard, Doug! This place definitely has the lions' share of the 6.5 experts, so you have definitely come to the right forum!

Jim

 

[VW_Lupo_TD]

Some directed me over here and and im now going to start posting here since it seems like the help has dried up over on my other thread.

*cough cough*

welcome - glad you made it ;-)

 

[Classified]

I have a small list of new parts that im waiting to come in, they are a new Lift Pump, LP relay, Oil Pressure Sensor, VSS on transfer case, and a new CDR.


1. I just recently straight piped the truck since the muffler was all rotted out and I thought Id try to save a few bucks by straight piping it. I didnt realize how loud it is so I am going to have to put a muffler on it but yesterday I was filming a cold start and about 5 mins into the truck running I see this. Any thoughts on what is causing this to happen?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DfTtpxqQ6Ls​

2. My trans is having issues. I think its a wiring issue, but first, is the wire in the pic supposed to be like that??? Also, is that the speed sensor Harness?? ( I know, I unplugged it to clean it since the speedo doesnt move.

3. The engine was supposedly rebuilt. There is this massive bunch of wires here. Anyone have a schematic on our trucks? Mine is a 93 3500 dually 4wd with ZERO options.

Are the wires supposed to be twisted like that??

4. Here is the video of a cold start. I just bought a new pift pump, LP relay, and OP sensor since it seems like from what I have read that if its hard to start, its likely the lift pump. I have read that there are ways to test it operation but also read they have a limited lifetime. mine looks to be orginal byt the amount of rust on the LP fittings. I am going to test it before I put any new parts on but at least I have the new parts ready just in case. Video-

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c3RdC-UKNkM​

 

[Classified]

Welcome aboard, Doug! This place definitely has the lions' share of the 6.5 experts, so you have definitely come to the right forum!

Jim

Thanks for the welcome!!!

*cough cough*

welcome - glad you made it ;-)

Yep yep thanks for the PM! LOL:thumbsup:

 

[Classified]

I was hoping for a little help IDing the relays and terminals in this pic. So far I have been told that #1 on the far left is the LP fuse, relay #2 is the LP relay, and relay #3 is possibly the 4WD relay. Not sure about the terminal block though. Any help is appreciated!

This mangled plug was found hanging around the down pipe area. It looks like it got a little too close too but im wondering what it goes too? I dont have any options on the truck, no AC or anything. This is the only unsed/hooked plug I have found so far so it has me wondering.............

Is the main + alt cable supposed to be this small?

 

[ShawnR]

3. The engine was supposedly rebuilt. There is this massive bunch of wires here. Anyone have a schematic on our trucks? Mine is a 93 3500 dually 4wd with ZERO options.

I have a book here for 1993 C/K models.

Electrical Diagnosis and Wiring Diagrams. It might help you figure out the wiring mess. PM me if you want to borrow it.

Somewhere I have a detailed diagram of the tranny control computer wiring. I can probably track that down too if you need it.

 

[Classified]

I have a book here for 1993 C/K models.

Electrical Diagnosis and Wiring Diagrams. It might help you figure out the wiring mess. PM me if you want to borrow it.

Somewhere I have a detailed diagram of the tranny control computer wiring. I can probably track that down too if you need it.

I have that book to and CANNOT find it anywhere! I would buy another one but then Ill end up finding my original one. I really appreciate the offer though. The one you have is the Haynes one right?

As for the tranny computer wiring, I would love that! My speedo doesnt work and I think its a large part of my tranny shifting issues. Im not sure if its a wiring issue, sensor issue, or computer issue.

 

[NVW]

In the 4th post of the 6.5 diesel technical library sticky is a link to a place where you can get wiring diagrams.

Are your glow plugs working? The cold start seemed to take awhile to fire, it did clear up fairly soon.

The puffing in the second video would appear to be a miss fire in one cyl. could be an injector or a valve.

Leo​

 

[VW_Lupo_TD]

Doug,

just a quick question for you, i see you have a similar exhaust setup as I have, however you did not route the exhaust out from under the vehicle.
Do you notice anything inside the vehicle ?
I mean in terms of smell ? I would think (aerodynamics class - did you pay attention? ;-)) that all the exhaust fumes would circle in the low pressure area underneath and behind truck and get inside every way possible ?
Were you not worried about that ? just wondering.
I routed mine just out under the rear door and do encounter some minor BWS (Black Wheel Syndrome) so I would just be worried where all that exhaust dirt is going ?

Just as food for thought, i would be worried about that.

Second in regards to the lift pump - that and the Oil Pressure Sensor was one of the first things I did when i got the truck, the one that was on there (not original as they do have a limited life span) looked just as you described :

so i replaced that and the OPS with heath parts right away just so to be on the safe side. My hint to you on that one is to NOT BELIEVE that the diesel will not keep running out once you open those fittings, as you will have a mess. Even if it does not better be prepared then to be laying under the truck with your fingers pressed on the line waiting for the wife to check on you and give you something to stop that with ;-)

other than that it is pretty straight forward - this is all you need :

here is the result :

as soon as I get time I will do a write up to post it here and
to totally limit the time of tool searching to a minimum ;-)

rgds

PS: and i again total props for the pics and the videos !
I have yet to figure out how to embed the youtube videos.

 

[ShawnR]

The wiring book I have is just like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993...ItemQQimsxZ20090221?IMSfp=TL0902211910009r109

As for your melted connector. I just checked mine and I am confident it is for the A/C receiver/drier pressure switch. Same shape & same color of wires.

Alternator wire looks just like mine.

I also have a spare trans computer too. Speedo might not be right, as there is a second little control box that is supposed to calibrate your speedo to tire size. I've got one of those too. I'd like to keep it, but you would be welcome to use it for diagnosis.

 

[Classified]

Here is my next painful project.

Its soaked in PB Blaster right now. Any other tips on removing it?

Is this the return line as noted in the photo?

Small trans issue. I think I am going to buy a new pan instead of repairing it. Well see how the funds are when I get to that point.

I thanks to you all in advance for all the help. This thread will continue to grow as I am working on this truck for a few hours each day. Tomorrow a bunch of new parts come in so lookout for a long post tomorrow night, LOL.

 

[Classified]

In the 4th post of the 6.5 diesel technical library sticky is a link to a place where you can get wiring diagrams.

Awesome!!!!!!!

Are your glow plugs working? The cold start seemed to take awhile to fire, it did clear up fairly soon.The puffing in the second video would appear to be a miss fire in one cyl. could be an injector or a valve

Well I replaced 3 of them, and they were all corroded at the connector and were not even hooked up. I did find that later on that day that one of the NEW GP came unhooked before that video was taken. I left that part out on porpose because I wanted to see what kind of answeres I would get. The onlt thing wierd to me is that the smoke cleares up after the start but the puffing was taken about a minute later after the startup video ended.

 

[Classified]

Doug,

just a quick question for you, i see you have a similar exhaust setup as I have, however you did not route the exhaust out from under the vehicle.
Do you notice anything inside the vehicle ?
I mean in terms of smell ? I would think (aerodynamics class - did you pay attention? ;-)) that all the exhaust fumes would circle in the low pressure area underneath and behind truck and get inside every way possible ?
Were you not worried about that ? just wondering.
I routed mine just out under the rear door and do encounter some minor BWS (Black Wheel Syndrome) so I would just be worried where all that exhaust dirt is going ?

I havent driven the truck yet. I use it to tow my lawn care trailer so I dont use it during the winter. I will probably rerout the exhaust out the back or side. The wheel is already black since I painted it that color, maybe the exhaust will help keep it black! LOL

Also, There is a hole on the drivers side floor so I would MOST DEFINATELY smell it in the cab! LOL

Second in regards to the lift pump - that and the Oil Pressure Sensor was one of the first things I did when i got the truck, the one that was on there (not original as they do have a limited life span) looked just as you described

You didnt see the pics of it yet did you! LOL

so i replaced that and the OPS with heath parts right away just so to be on the safe side. My hint to you on that one is to NOT BELIEVE that the diesel will not keep running out once you open those fittings, as you will have a mess. Even if it does not better be prepared then to be laying under the truck with your fingers pressed on the line waiting for the wife to check on you and give you something to stop that with ;-)

Thanks for that help/writeup! Think Ill stop and buy a rubber plug for the lines while im trying to replace the pump, I appreciate that heads up.

other than that it is pretty straight forward,


here is the result :

as soon as I get time I will do a write up to post it here and
to totally limit the time of tool searching to a minimum ;-)

rgds

PS: and i again total props for the pics and the videos !
I have yet to figure out how to embed the youtube videos.

I like that end result! I just bought one from Napa though. This is a company truck and although I really like this truck for its character, it wont be around for ever!

Great post and pics also!! Thanks!!!

 

[Classified]

The wiring book I have is just like this one:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1993...ItemQQimsxZ20090221?IMSfp=TL0902211910009r109

Thats not the book I have/had. Thats the book that I need though! I think I will just buy that one since it looks to be a pretty valuable tool to keep around. I appreciate your earlier offer!!

As for your melted connector. I just checked mine and I am confident it is for the A/C receiver/drier pressure switch. Same shape & same color of wires.

Sweet! Ill just ty it up and forget about it.

Alternator wire looks just like mine.

Thanks for looking. After a little thought, I guess it doesnt need to be as thick a gauge since the alt actually created AC power and the battery converts it to DC power. So a thinner gauge is acceptable then.

I also have a spare trans computer too. Speedo might not be right, as there is a second little control box that is supposed to calibrate your speedo to tire size. I've got one of those too. I'd like to keep it, but you would be welcome to use it for diagnosis.

Yeah I have little white box too. I was wondering what it did. Once I get the new speed sensor in I will let you know. Hopefully I wont have take you up on your generous offer! LOL:thumbsup:

 

[buddy]

seems to me your glo-plugs arent working, could be the plugs but you should also replace the controller and those old electrical connectors on the wires that go to the plugs.

also, dont want to crank that many times in a row, will burn up your starter. Why its important to fix the start issue. And have you tested your lift pump? One thing you can do with truck off is open the T-valve by the thermostat and route the drain hose into a jar. Unplug that lift pump relay on the firewall and apply 12v battery to the middle contact closest to the firewall on the harness. The contacts would connect to pin E of the relay. That should power the lift pump and pump fuel out the T-valve, which is how I drain water from mine every time I change oil.

 

[buddy]

VW Lupo, did you buy coated pipes, or paint your exhaust black? Im planning to output in front of my rear wheel, and with the long bed and no ext cab doors I think mine will be fine.

 

[Bullseye240]

"Thanks for looking. After a little thought, I guess it doesnt need to be as thick a gauge since the alt actually created AC power and the battery converts it to DC power. So a thinner gauge is acceptable then."

Half right... Alt does produce AC power but the diode inside makes it DC not the battery.

"I like that end result! I just bought one from Napa though. This is a company truck and although I really like this truck for its character, it wont be around for ever!"

They do have character indeed. Best of luck with the wiring as it looks like a rats nest right now. I agree that the puffing smoke would seem to indicate a miss firing cylinder and in the cold start vid you can see it happen a few times. Rebuilt injectors and new glow plugs can't hurt. Injectors are designed to be replaced at 100000 miles, but that being said mine lasted 225000 miles best I could tell since I'm not the original owner.

 

[Classified]

seems to me your glo-plugs arent working, could be the plugs but you should also replace the controller and those old electrical connectors on the wires that go to the plugs.

They work but it might be only the 3 new ones that I just replaced, it would smoke for 20 minutes after first starting it and that was during the summer too. The thing I dont get is how I can replace the ones on the passenger side in the middle. The ones with the tubes around them. I cant get the wires off to get to the GP. I will replace the 4 on the DS and the the #8 and #2 have already been replaced.

also, dont want to crank that many times in a row, will burn up your starter. Why its important to fix the start issue. And have you tested your lift pump? One thing you can do with truck off is open the T-valve by the thermostat and route the drain hose into a jar. Unplug that lift pump relay on the firewall and apply 12v battery to the middle contact closest to the firewall on the harness. The contacts would connect to pin E of the relay. That should power the lift pump and pump fuel out the T-valve, which is how I drain water from mine every time I change oil.

Thanks for the tip on cranking, the goal is to get it start the first time right now! LOL.

I saw one of your other posts with the procedure on testing the lift pump. Tomorrow after I pick up the new parts, I am going to test it. If I dont have to do the work, I wont. Also, is there any chance that the old pump might not be putting out the correct amount of pressure as its old? It might work but only 50% of what its supposed to be. Any way to figure this out?

 

[buddy]

Yeah, you can test if the lift pump is working the way its supposed to by seeing how much fuel it pumps out of the T-valve drain while youre powering it. Or putting a pressure guage on the end of the hose instead of letting it drain into a container. Still doesnt totally rule out a bad one, but lets you know it works and may not be your problem. You should also check the pressure with the guage on the drain valve output when actually cranking and idling, to make sure the relay and wiring associated is working.

I think maybe you need to advance your timing a little, turn the IP, to get rid of the white smoke. either that or you have fouled injectors. do you know if injectors were replaced with engine?