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My homemade catch can

Jaryd

Jaryd

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Hodges, SC
I was walking around Tractor Supply today and happened to see this strainer for a pressure washer sitting on the shelf. It’s thick plastic and has 1” npt threads entering and exiting. They have bigger ones and smaller ones but I figured the 1” would be the one to try out.

011FC733-7C3A-424A-8551-96A4136D6E74.jpeg 56E876AB-1C10-4B1E-A8BA-EA98E5B7694B.jpegEC75765C-711A-44A6-B89B-BAF1C9DF2743.jpeg 2832FF5A-8912-45D6-A6CA-6991DC77D8F8.jpeg
It has a course stainless screen and then a little finer screen on the inside.

I have been letting the CDR vent to the atmosphere since I have so much blow-by and oil going in the upper plenum with it hooked up to the filter intake. I was worried about a runaway situation especially since my wife drives it sometimes so I just vented it.
 
I went and got some stainless scotch brite pads and filled the whole screen full. I’m thinking that the scotch brite can slow the air down enough to get the oil to drop out and go to the bottom. 34F1969D-8BA9-4F21-8C2A-0FE479E5062A.jpeg6FF793B0-4623-4339-9E56-5BEF4D0427DB.jpeg 015F1808-6863-4CDB-B340-66DEDF66B442.jpeg49470904-0CC6-4405-AB8C-C39FA3AF2074.jpeg There is 3 balls of this stuff in there.
 
All I had on my work truck was black iron fittings so they will work until I get some brass fittings next week when I get back to work. I used a 1” st. 90*, 1” x 3/4” bushing and a brass 3/4” npt x 3/4” barb on each side. B80FC5B2-E725-419F-9189-056D6720F7F6.jpeg4E8574FC-58B2-401F-8BB0-0309B5452C6C.jpeg

Don’t pay attention to the exposed air filter. As soon as we finish moving in our house the inner fender is going back in. I’ve also got to redo the battery cables that the P.O. put on. BDD16DB9-ADB2-4826-945B-1AE4D81D8431.jpeg5C56433B-830B-4892-8B1D-F59830DD93E3.jpeg

I’ve still got to mount it. It’s just laying on the cables right now but I’m thinking of mounting it to the fan shroud.

I ain’t put any miles on it since I’ve put it in but I’ll let you know if it’s worth it or not.
 
I forget the melting point of nylon even though the melting points of plastic was posted on here some time ago.

I have melted down PVC elbows in the CDR system. The More blowby and the harder you work the engine the hotter the gasses coming off the hottest head are.
 
WarWagon said:
I forget the melting point of nylon even though the melting points of plastic was posted on here some time ago.

I have melted down PVC elbows in the CDR system. The More blowby and the harder you work the engine the hotter the gasses coming off the hottest head are.
Click to expand...

I’m going to change out the plastic 90* at the Turbo for a brass one when I get back to work.

I’m anxious to see if the scotch brite works to slow the air down enough to separate the oil.
 
I can’t remember who, but somebody did same thing with that on a thread here. I copied it for the 87 mercedes, but hoses i used didnt like heat very long. It lasted long enough to fix my actual issue- their “cdr” is inside the valve cover btw.
 
The hose coming from the cdr to the catch can has braided stainless wire in it but the hose from the catch can is just heat rated hose. Hopefully it will hold up until I can get some more of the stainless braided next Tuesday.

Will L. said:
I can’t remember who, but somebody did same thing with that on a thread here. I copied it for the 87 mercedes, but hoses i used didnt like heat very long. It lasted long enough to fix my actual issue- their “cdr” is inside the valve cover btw.
Click to expand...

Sounds like you would have to buy a new valve cover just to get a new Cdr.
 
ak diesel driver said:
What slows down the air is the volume of the can.
Click to expand...

Good to know @ak diesel driver That makes sense. They have one that’s roughly 6” diameter and 1 1/2” inlet/outlet. Might have some bigger. Mine is about 4” diameter. If it don’t do what I need it to with the scotch brite pads then I will try putting some Brillo pads inside the stainless screen. I still haven’t put any miles on it to tell how it’s going to work.
 
Will L. said:
I can’t remember who, but somebody did same thing with that on a thread here. I copied it for the 87 mercedes, but hoses i used didnt like heat very long. It lasted long enough to fix my actual issue- their “cdr” is inside the valve cover btw.
Click to expand...

Do you remember how it turned out for him. I tried searching threads about “cdr” “Catch can” stuff like that before I installed it but it didn’t come up with nothing.
 
I have read a few pages of the thread that @snarl95 gave me and he used the same thing I got and we almost took the same exact pictures. It looks like he had better luck with the scotch brite pads so that’s what I’ll stay with instead of going with Brillo pads like I thought I would do if the scotch brite didn’t do what I needed. I still have several more pages to read but so far, I think it’s going to work like I thought it would.

@Will L. You asked this in the other guys thread.
Will L. said:
Awesome. I wonder how it would do on a high blow by engine.
Click to expand...
Well, Looks like we are going to find out.
 
Yeah, That is the fix for a Mercedes 300d. Ebay wins again. The catch can in the Mercedes got hot, but the can handled the heat no problem- and I had it 3/4 full and hot. But I never did a 10 hour drive or anything.
 
I saw the pictures of the catch can you put on the Mercedes @Will L. Kinda funny how trial and errors can get you pulled over sometimes especially when you are mosquitoe fogging the community for free. Glad you got it figured out tho.

My Engine definitely qualifies for a high blow by engine so we will find out how good it’s going to work.
 
The Burb's catch can is in the same place.

Am planning to add either stainless or brass scrubbers inside as it currently is just an open can. It does catch some oil as there is always something to suck-out when I do oil changes. But I am still seeing oil residue inside the intake and am looking to see if I can lower the amount.
 
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