My Dyno results

[kojo]

I think it is 239.29hp And kuutio's 195kW = 265.13 horsepowers

 

[NVW]

746 watts= 1hp , at least that is what I remember 30+ years later. Slim"s #'s should be correct.

Leo

 

[Slim Shady]

Nice numbers Kane, for those of you that don't do metric here are the conversions

453.23194073071653 foot lbs at 3500 Rpm


258.71313672989 HP at 2500 rpm


Very nice numbers from a 6.5

Kane numbers are 261.394 hp is 195 KW

Kojo numbers are 176. kw is 235.92493297648 HP and 472.7 NM is 348.6456279632379 ft pounds of torque.

Check them for yourself http://www.convertunits.com

 

[540s10]

i don't get it are these wheel hp numbers or flywheel numbers? it sounds like the dyno is converting back to flywheel power?

 

[kojo]

Yes, that dyno counts driveline loss and converts wheel power to flywheel power

 

[3500GMC]

It's good to see the 6.5 is alive and well in Finland!

Nice numbers, even nicer looking trucks.

Much respect. :thumbsup:

 

[kojo]

Here is paper from my burb, see how torque curve goes straight up before tcc starts slipping...

and those rpm's aren't true, it really doesn't rev up to 5000 fuel table ends after 3600rpm for safety reasons
More dyno papers from finland in my profile album, all are from 6.5's!

 

[Slim Shady]

I really like that hp and torque chart, straight up on torque and nice steady climb for the HP. NICE :thumbsup:

 

[6.5quest]

Nice job, good to see what other 6.5 guys are doing. Anything over 200rwhp is an accomplishment. So congratulations!

 

[kane]

Just curious, intercooler with ATT... if ATT will give more power, would IC give few horses more with it?
My IC dropped IAT's 190F to 104F (temp outside ~60F)... ATT is not that "cool" is it? :smile5:
Personally, cooler is just a thing to give more long life... nice of course if it gives more power :smile5:

6.5quest, what's your secret... over 300 rwhp :yumyum: :thumbsup:

 

[SmithvilleD]

While the discussion on this forum has sometimes tended toward yes/IC for turbo X, no/IC for ATT, the overriding factor is really what peak & sustained boost pressure a given setup runs. As you've probably experienced doing your own setup, our trucks do make plumbing/fitting a good system more challenging than the OEM IC equip'd pickups.

Compressor efficiency differences do impact outlet charge air temps, but temp increases due purely to compression are the biggest factor in charge density.

One of the better charts I've seen illustrating the relationship is in Turbo - Real World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems, from SA Design.

Here's a link to 2 pages - showing the relationship btwn boost & density ratio (how much the compressor increased charge density above ambient air pressure).

http://paceperformance.com/ProductImages/manufacturer/cartech/pdfchapters/sa123chpt3.pdf

The 2nd chart shows the relationship with aftercooling & how much charge density the aftercooler regains.

The book goes on to include both charts overlaid, which makes the difference much easier to see, but I couldn't find an online source of that page. To get the idea, just go to a few boost points - say 5, 10, 15, & 20 on the non aftercooling chart & note the density ratio for these 4 points. Then go to the aftercooled chart & note the density ratio of the same 4 points.

For those wanting more IC discussion, here's a link where you can download a useful primer on IC's from Spearco:

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/all_about_intercooling

 

[6.5quest]

Just curious, intercooler with ATT... if ATT will give more power, would IC give few horses more with it?
My IC dropped IAT's 190F to 104F (temp outside ~60F)... ATT is not that "cool" is it? :smile5:
Personally, cooler is just a thing to give more long life... nice of course if it gives more power :smile5:

6.5quest, what's your secret... over 300 rwhp :yumyum: :thumbsup:

I did it with a custom built 6.2/6.5 engine, ceramic coated pistons, balanced rotating assembly, ARP head studs, HO-Inj., Heath Prom, HO-lift pump, GM-4 turbo w/ Turbo-Master, aFe stage 2 intake, turbo back exhaust (3" downpipe, 4" the rest of the way), Heath x-pipe, proportional vapor propane injection, 2 stage snow water/meth, ZEX nitrous, Comp-u-shift tranny control, ceramic coated exaust manifolds and intake, and I think that was about it. I didn't have the fluidampr balancer installed at the time and I should have been running a larger turbo. With those two things I think I could have hit close to 325+rwhp.

It is not an easy thing to do, that is why I am doing everything possible to this new truck to try and hit the 350rwhp mark.

 

[Matt Bachand]

Ian, do you think 50+HP of that was the 'drugs'?

 

[6.5quest]

Ian, do you think 50+HP of that was the 'drugs'?

I would say yes to that. Being as limited as we are on diesel I had to use other sources of fuel. The trick is using the correct amounts so you don't break your motor. I am sure I could have got more HP but I still had to drive that truck home from Montana to Washington so I ran it lean on the drug side of things. We are going to try some different things with this new project that will be released in the winter issue of MaxxTorque magazine. I am posting pictures as I go along with the build to get advice if people see areas the feel can be improved. All of the pics are under the "project 350HP" thread.

 

[kane]

Ahaa... ok. Our (team Finland :smile5 ~230rwhp are then nice results, cause Sub's are all at least 200k miles driven base motors and everyday on the road with the setup that we dynoed. So, there where no extra "dyno setup" done.
But of course... how to catch those 20hp more :rolleyes5:
We will wait and see kojo's result later how it blows the dyno :iagree::thumbsup:

 

[Turbine Doc]

While the discussion on this forum has sometimes tended toward yes/IC for turbo X, no/IC for ATT, the overriding factor is really what peak & sustained boost pressure a given setup runs. As you've probably experienced doing your own setup, our trucks do make plumbing/fitting a good system more challenging than the OEM IC equip'd pickups.

Compressor efficiency differences do impact outlet charge air temps, but temp increases due purely to compression are the biggest factor in charge density.

One of the better charts I've seen illustrating the relationship is in Turbo - Real World High-Performance Turbocharger Systems, from SA Design.

Here's a link to 2 pages - showing the relationship btwn boost & density ratio (how much the compressor increased charge density above ambient air pressure).

http://paceperformance.com/ProductImages/manufacturer/cartech/pdfchapters/sa123chpt3.pdf

The 2nd chart shows the relationship with aftercooling & how much charge density the aftercooler regains.

The book goes on to include both charts overlaid, which makes the difference much easier to see, but I couldn't find an online source of that page. To get the idea, just go to a few boost points - say 5, 10, 15, & 20 on the non aftercooling chart & note the density ratio for these 4 points. Then go to the aftercooled chart & note the density ratio of the same 4 points.

For those wanting more IC discussion, here's a link where you can download a useful primer on IC's from Spearco:

http://www.turboneticsinc.com/all_about_intercooling

Agree 100% SD, I hope I have not given impression that post turbo/compression cooling is not an improvement when I chose to eliminate my IC after going to the ATT, to get max benefit some post compression cooling is required, but for the average 6.5 er that isn't going to be pulling freight or driving to break a speed or power record you can manage without it when running ATT.

I have a WMI waiting to be installed, and now that I understand from Bill that any "clean water" can be used I'll be plumbing mine in sooner than later, I had been mentally preparing/operating under the misconception that it had to be pure water, or bottled etc., but regular "city" tap water will be sufficient.

My seat of pants performance sensibilty noticed a slight, operative word slight improvement on performance, maybe next guy operating my truck as a visitor could not tell the difference, but I spend a lot of "time in the saddle" with mine so I know when changes happen.

On a cool day 10 psi boost nets me about 100 mph IAT 191F or so, when I push it to full WOT I can get up to 107-109 mph before high IAT 278F+ my scanner isnt fast enough to capture how much plus @ about 14 psi boost before I defuel without any post turbo cooling, so to reach maximum potential some sort of after cooling will be necessary, unless you aren't going to try to pull 18K loads or run 100mph plus, I question the expense of doing it vs the number of times you need to do it.

I drive to/from Ga/Ms at least bi-weekly & sometimes weekly (440 miles 1 way) I do it without WMI or IC and as a "commuter" or even pulling say 4000#I have not required the aftercooling but will be installing WMI soon as Bill says it also improves mpg, (more to follow on that note)

 

[Monarkman]

I have a WMI waiting to be installed, and now that I understand from Bill that any "clean water" can be used I'll be plumbing mine in sooner than later, I had been mentally preparing/operating under the misconception that it had to be pure water, or bottled etc., but regular "city" tap water will be sufficient.

That's good to know. I have big plans for this spring and was considering but beginnig to lean away from WMI because I was under the impression at least filtered tap was to be used. I was worried sediment or "hard water" would clog the injector or collect somewhere in the combustion chamber.

 

[buddy]

I use filtered tap water and winshield washer fluid.

 

[635]

While on the trip with Bill to Bonneville. You could see Bill's son, Joe, at a water/air station with the hose going in the back door. He was filling the water tank. Just regular water!

 

[6.5quest]

I have always used regular water with either window washer fluid -20* or Snow Boost Juice. The water gets used fast enough to where it really doesn't make a difference.