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Looking for some help

I get stubborn in my thought process and have a hard time seeing the pop pressure be the root cause. But with the new fuel, maybe. It took me a whole head of grey hairs to accept the less compression and more turbo way of thinking. And no days every pump builder out there goes with lower pressure pumps and lower pressure injectors. Hmmm...

I wonder if there is a diy method of viscosity testing?
Dollar to a donut says it would run great if regular diesel was in there right now (if it wouldn’t gel up).
 
I played with car code and have some real world numbers but as always would depend on location and details.

I am running a palstic dmax fan HO water pump with restrictor fitting 180F robert shaw stats. My dash guage shows about ~175-180F

My fuel heat soaked to about 143F.

Today partly sunny 60F ambient variable breeze about 6 MPH according to phone.

I idled until it was fully warm. typically ECT on scanner shows ~ 171-176F but forgot to note it at first (think it ran around 174F when I played with my timing settings)

All temps in F.

Idling fuel temp was 107.6 I cut the engine off - re-connected scanner and about a min fuel rose to 109.4
elapsed time
5min fuel 114.8
10min fuel 122
15 min fuel 127.4 , Engine coolant temp on scanner 162
20min fuel 132.8 ECT 162, Intake air temp 149
25min fuel 136.4 ECT 156 IAT 151
30min fuel 138.2 ECT 154 IAT 151
35 min fuel 140 ECT 153 IAT 149
40min fuel 143.6 ECT 149 IAT 147
45min fuel 141.8 ECT 145 IAT 145
50min fuel 143.6 ECT 144 IAT 144
55min fuel 143.6 ECT 138 IAT 144
60min fuel 141.8 ECT 136 IAT 142

Started engine
1 min fuel 136.4 ECT 147 IAT 100
3 min fuel 131 ECT 158 IAT 97
5min fuel 122 ECT 167 IAT 93
10min fuel 107.6 ECT 171 IAT 100

* dash guage is about normal operating temp so I goose fuel a few times and let it idle

15 min fuel 105.8 ECT 174 IAT 108
20min fuel 107.6 ECT 171 IAT 111

I think your fuel temp is in normalish expected range or at least not excessively hot.
 
So for the last few weeks I was getting an intermittent glow circuit code. Then about a week ago I noticed my volt meter started reading slightly lower during a cold start. Then I noticed that my hot start seemed to be better. After that I started paying closer attention and my hot start is gone. Seemed pretty coincidental that the code stopped about the same time. Talked to John (quadstar) about it and he didn't think it could affect it.
Today I had to go to Anchorage during rush hour traffic. I went to switch lanes and wasn't accelerating quickly enough so I gave it quite a bit more throttle, it downshifted and took off and then was WOT. Hit the brakes and it stopped have it the gas again and back to WOT. Went back and forth a couple of times and then died. Pulled over and restarted and back to WOT. So I switched pmds and all was good.
I told about the last part just in case it was related.
 
Les, Glad you are ok and no crash.

Save that pmd. I am convinced when a family dies because of it there will finally be a lawsuit and that pmd may be your $150,000 ticket from the subsequent class action.

Also glad you dont have too much blow by and dead cdr to let WOT go runaway.

You know I kept chasing bad fuel as the reason for your issue. Hopefully that pmd is it, but I was thinking you already swapped the pmd?

You had my heart racing reading the WOT. I almost killed a young mom and her baby at a stop light years ago from that. I just can’t own a ds4 rig again.
 
If it happens again my next theory would be ecm.

What’s worse than shotgunning parts? Shotgunning electronic parts. But I think that’s where you’re at.

Or take a real shotgun to the ds4,pmd, etc and stuff a db on there...
 
He did a DB4 for a 6.5 recently. But I was told he won't build those without locking the timing advance. But I'm sure he could build a hot DB2 that still retains all that normal functions.

It's hard to find guys who do performance work on the DB series pumps. That's why I'm building my own.
 
On hummer forum, couple recommended places.
Badgerdiesel. Com from one guy and said they do custom.

Another recommendation was Diesel Care and Performance in Tennessee. That member owns business doing military vehicles and said they have done about 40 pumps for him.

I have no knowledge of the above.

The local shop thats been reliable in Vegas is J&S Diesel. The “S” was Scott who passed a few years back and built all my crazy built pumps. I know he was training others there, and his parter and him had friendly arguments as to who was best between them- that is who I planned on using unless someone here had RAVING reviews. Rockstar level reliability since the mid seventies.
 
@ak diesel driver
That's the exact same thing that the PCM on My truck did shortly after I had purchased the truck. I had ordered a Dorman PCM through Oriellies and it was setting at the parts house waiting for Me, switched out the PCMs, first road trip out the engine would stumble for just one lick, then run normal for several miles and stumble again, each time disengaging the cruise control. I took that PCM back and exchanged it for another one but in the mean time I got the Stanadyne grey box on the way, instyalled the grey box and have not had a problem one since, that has been a couple or three years ago.
That second Dorman PCM did give me some grief so I took it back and got another one. Since the warranty is now up on the Stanadyne, two years, I will now install the new Dorman on there and run it until it dies. Then get another one.
 
Well the saga continues. So I was on my way to kenai for my daughter's BB games when I had the WOT pmd, so we left and stopped in soldotna for some lunch and my truck wouldn't restart. I first thought my hot start issue was back but cold water didn't help so I plugged in the WOT pmd again and it start ( WOT of course) so I tracked down another pmd. Ended up going back to kenai for it. Had some issues getting it started but finally did. Drove back to Anchorage including a stop in girdwood where it started back up no issues.
Got to Anchorage and had to stop at Barnes and Noble and as I was pulling in it died. Got it restarted and am now sitting here idling waiting for everyone to be done.
I think my next step is getting a new harness for the IP from the FFM forward and maybe a new glow harness while I'm at it. Hopefully this inconvenience helps by convincing me to replace those harnesses
 
So it died 2 more times before I got home. Both times it wouldn't restart so I started jiggling wires and it would restart after I did that so I'm more convinced that it's a wiring issue.
 
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