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JD 4010

tanman_2006

Just a farm kid...
Messages
5,694
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931
Location
Seiling, Oklahoma
My fiancee's gma has a JD 4010 that has been sitting atleast 10yrs, it was her late husbands. The tractor had a knock when it was parked. It is a gas tractor :9898:. The tractor itself is in great shape. The rear end and tranny were both rebuilt a year before the engine problem, has 3pt, pto, loader, cab w/ swamp box, and decent paint. The cab and loader are off and the cab has some busted windows and I'm sure the swamp box needs some work to function.

Now for my purposes it would be great if it was a 4020 Diesel. I dont carry gas with me at anytime and dont really want to. I was wondering if anyone knows if a 4020 Diesel (not sure if there is turbo diesel that will fit) will bolt up with minimal modifications? I dont need any more than ~100 hp but ~120hp would be nice since that is what my round baler is rated at. I can do some engine work and modifications if anyone knows what needs done.

I need a second tractor and I can get this one for little to nothing as long as it stays in the family. I will use it for small square baling, hay stacking, and raking mostly as well as some normal utility stuff. Dad is getting annoyed with me using his 150hp case loader tractor all the time and my gpa usually has the valtra.

Are there any good/well traveled forums that can help me here? I'm by no means a tractor guru, I just know how to get some GO out of the diesel engines in them.

THANKS :D
 
I don't know , but for simplicity I would think they (JD) would have a basic platform with different engine options. Come to think about it a neighbor had propane 4020's at his auction, I think the buyers wanted them to put their diesel engines in.

Know any old JD mechanics you could ask? My go to guy is dead so I am no help.
 
My go to guy is a Case IH guy but he works on everything! I even take him my generators, mowers, and gas air compressors, the guy can fix anything.

Anyways, he said he thinks they are the same platform like you said and engines should swap. Also been reading on Yesterday's Tractors and found out that 7700 Combines also used this engine and had a TURBO. The only issue is the manifold on the Combine interferes with the hyd controls and needs a hole cut in the hood.

I am not going for a show tractor or a race tractor, I need a work horse. Beings that I am not a stranger to making a turbo fit where it shouldn't I might have to try my hand at building a manifold that will tuck up better or atleast clear things better, maybe even use my wh1c or even one of my GM's. The tractors only run ~2200 rpm so I am in the efficiency range of a gm @120hp (well maybe thats pushing the limits lol)

Now I will either look for a 4020 diesel or a beat up running combine. If I can find a 4020 I want the 8/4 power shift tranny, might as well while I am building my own tractor... lol

I want to atleast get it running N/A and get some other kinks worked out before I jump into the turbo but for the price I have room to tinker.
 
The 30 series tractors used the same block as the 20 series. A 4430 engine would be a turbo engine and should bolt in. It would be about 120 hp
 
Sweet, I like bolt in lol. Only issue I might see is the 4430's were made in the 70's IIRC and my 4010 is a early 60's (63 was the last yr of them i think). Might be some clearance issues over that time period but likely minimal I'd guess.

I've read the later engines had alot bigger ports in the heads and better set ups (reason for looking for the combines) so that would be a good option for some power.
 
4430's were made from 73-78 IIRC, 78 was the year they went to the 40 series. The 7700 combine would be similar vintage. They would have the same block but possibly a different exh manifold as was mentioned.
 
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/6/61-john-deere-4010-engine.html

4010
tractor data list 3 engine options and only 1 transmission (8F3R) so I'll guess its safe to assume there is a diesel that fits pretty easy.

Comparing to the 4020 on tractor data Looks like transmissions are 8F2R and the 8F4R power shift but no 8F3R so either it wasnt an option or they just won't mate.

Have you been to tractorbynet dot com or Greentractortalk dot com to ask.
 
They may just be different transmissions offered, and still bolt up. I haven't run one for a long time. The last years they were made you could knock out a metal stop and get 7th reverse.
 
http://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/6/61-john-deere-4010-engine.html

4010
tractor data list 3 engine options and only 1 transmission (8F3R) so I'll guess its safe to assume there is a diesel that fits pretty easy.

Comparing to the 4020 on tractor data Looks like transmissions are 8F2R and the 8F4R power shift but no 8F3R so either it wasnt an option or they just won't mate.

Have you been to tractorbynet dot com or Greentractortalk dot com to ask.

The 4L80 wasnt offered in a 82 6.2L but it will bolt up still. I'm hoping the same theory was used.

I will check out those forums, this is looking like one heck of a project. lol I'd end up with pretty sweet old tractor though! Old chassis Mix match everything else to get all the things I want!

They may just be different transmissions offered, and still bolt up. I haven't run one for a long time. The last years they were made you could knock out a metal stop and get 7th reverse.

That could be handy stacking hay!
 
There is one draw back to the 4010/20 platform, unless it has the power shift they had a dry clutch.
 
Yeah and it doesnt seem the powershift tranny will be an easy fit in my 4010. hyd pumps are different and few other things. The tractor forums are saying scrap the tractor and sell but if I take I cant sell it I have to give to my fiancee's uncle first (family stuff). He took the matching 4230 powershift because it ran and didnt have time to fix the 4010.

I'm stuborn, since I have a tracotr chassis that I like and it needs an engine anyways why not throw the diesel in it? On that note if I have the engine out how much more work is it to get the tranny out? I dont see what would be the big deal in rebuilding the tractor front to back if I find a parts tractor.

I figure I can rebuild and sell the gas engine, should be a market out there for them. Any parts I dont need or want can be sold too. Thats money back on the parts rig.
 
the 4010 came LP, Diesel, or gas. to my knowledge only the one trans, I beleive called the synchro-range. shifter mods and there is R4 available. :)

my vote is find a n.a. diesel and put that in, leave everything else the same, (I too have heard of a tranny swap being near impossible) keep it as the auger and mower and other odd job tractor, nice and original for family keepsake-ness, and save up for something a little more suited for round baling. IMO big swaps can get out of hand time and price wise. I assume since you have to stop to dump the bale a wet clutch manual or a powershift tractor would do you some good? plus older cabs arent too enjoyable.

We have a neighbor that is a cowboy and he loves his powershift 7000 series Allis Chalmers'. if you want to get frisky with the GF in the cab, get an 8000 series allis with the big cab. the only time 7K series allis cabs are a problem is when you are 6 foot 4 inches and have to scratch yourself standing up and hit a hole. (last summers adventure for me! :) )

the reason I mention the allis is that they are a decent unit for not much money. judging by the CIH and the valtra, you folks arent too brand specific? I would mention a White, but they are dry clutch.

I do know of a 1066 hydro (I beleive the turboed hydro 100) if you would be interested in that? dont do any hard groundwork and it should last, and the hydro IHs are about the best damn loader and haying tractors in the last 50 years, only overtaken by modern CVT tractors.

pictures of everything you got, we have a cab that I think was off a 4010 if you are still determined to go that route.
 
What exactly does the dry clutch mean? Is the change of gears from foward to reverse hard to do w/ a dry clutch or hard on the clutch itself? I figure from the sounds of it I can pull a rake and small square fine with this set up and brush beat all I want. The NA diesel will be there for sure, weather it stay NA is yet to be seen. If I have something like this free and clear it might get some modifications LATER. I might take you up on a spare cab if in decent condition and you find a few other parts. AFAIK these already hav 8 foward 4 rev but you are correct that EVERYTHING needs to be changed to get the powershift to work. I know the cabs arent made for comfort but functional is fine.

I am more brand loyal, the valtra was my uncles idea before I had alot of decision making power and now my cousin is stuck with it since it is a pos and not worth much (interior and body worn out at 3K hrs). I prefer my dads MX135's. Besides brand loyal I am deal and function over form loyal. Nearly free tractor wins this battle, I can borrow a tractor for major hay loading but its the minor stuff that is a pain to borrow tractors for.

In the future I will likely go with a slightly newer power shift tractor. I am not looking for a tractor to do major baling, the hills I have the hay jobs on require some power which is why I have the big CIH and my dads 135's dyno 150hp at rated rpm, top over 160hp, and are weighted pretty good. My CIH is built to pull the hills with a big square baler/accumulator behind it. I wouldn't mind one of the older deere's I'm not a JD fan by any means but I can find them cheaper than another CIH (usually). A hydro IH might be something I could look into, thats what my high boy was originally built for (we are big on adapter kits in our circle lol)
 
The dry clutch is just like in a truck, wet clutches run in the gear oil and last much longer.

The dry clutch is fine if you aren't using a loader.
 
I guess I'm not understanding what problem light loader usage will have?

Will the loader not work right?

Like I said I can find a tractor to borrow for 300 bale days.

Sent from: Source Unknown
 
I don't mean to say a loader will wreck the clutch, my brother has a 4020 with 15,000 hrs and maybe 2 clutch jobs. He loads 1000's of bales a year.
 
So only taking a bale of hay to the cows wont be bad but back and forth semi loading and stacking out of the field wouldnt be a good idea... I can handle that, the snow storm we just had showed me how much I could use a cow feeding tractor, my cows are in places that other family members pass by so it wasnt like they couldnt get fed but once the dmax was down I was at the mercy of everyone else.

Raking hay and small squares will be ok but stop and go round baling is another no no. Light 13ft drilling duty is fine too.

There is an auction coming up w/ a 1982 4440 w/ loader, duals, quad range, 140hp, 4,500hrs, and is from a guy that has good maintenence practices. He keeps his tractors and all trucks in a barn and takes them to the dealer for EVERYTHING. If it goes for under $20k I will take it home. Its a bit over kill for the job I need but I rearanged some money and rethought some of the priorities and a HD loader and back up drilling tractor for under 20K (retail is ~15-17K around here) would be ok. I have a 30ft Great Plains Notill drill that puts a load on a tractor when pulling hills so the 8920 will be stuck on that but I will still have alfalfa to bale in the fall too so a baling capable tractor would be nice and a back up drilling tractor could be handy. I still think the 4010 would make a sweet rake tractor though and would be perfect for small squares, most of my baling is custom so I dont have to stack every field. I baled 3K bales last yr, that would kill the 4010 QUICK lol
 
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