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iT'S FINALLY TIME TO SWAP THE nv4500 IN THE 94 K3500 Detailed removal and installatio

Our previous vendor was 'Mighty Mill' but IDK if they do retail. I've had good luck with Farm & Fleet in the past but IDK about now and I would look at Rural King since they are of a 'buy American if possible' mindset.
 
IMO i'm not going to worry too much about the quality too much on a bolt that is just being used to slide the tranny on and then replaced by the OEM bolts. I'll try to remember to take mine to the parts store/machine shops and see what i can find out.

Good to know that fastenal isnt all that its cracked up to be anymore.
 
I also used to use Lawson products. I don't know how many of our buisness accounts are still in effect.

I do seem to have an overabundance of 3/8 by 1 1/2" grade 8 hex bolts for home use
 
What size are the bell housing bolts?

Are they 3/8x16 or a metric size?

If they are metric, what size would they be?

I would probably need to order some long bolts or threaded rod from Fastenal

I am going to install long bolts as suggested to make it easier to slide the transmission into place.
From those questions, I do not know off the top of my head.

Just so you know, Fastenal has gone almost entirely over to Chinese manufactured hardware and we have been encountering previously unheard of failures in the field of these fasteners of several types and various materials. Right now, we engineers, are fighting vigorously with the upstairs freakingbeancounters to demand all US manufactured and sourced fasteners until we see an improvement by doing selective testing and performance evaluation (read zero fail) of Chinese manufactured hardware.
I have no complaint (from a professional standpoint) with foreign manufactured goods as components of the machines we manufacture but if they fail and, at the very least, cause US to have unsatisfied customers then you can bet I'll get involved and damn quick! A good engineer will always take that kind of shit personal...
I deal with suppliers on a daily basis. Part of the AWV tunnel project is a "Buy America" provision of the contract which requires ANY steel, iron, or stainless steel item to be domestic. It's a pain to source some of the items my company is working with.

I do know from experience you can get just about any faster from Fastenal as a domestic product, you just have to stipulate that and usually wait a day or two longer. Also, they cost more.
 
I bought 2 tubes at the local parts store and the guy at the counter (not always the best source of info) says its all the same and its pointless to buy the expensive stuff. It definately gets all over the place and holds. I got mine sealed up and realized I had an internal clearance issue and had to break it apart, this stuff was pretty hard to break after sitting over night.
 
Well I screwed up setting my preload/back lash on the main shaft and it binds so now i have to tear my 5th gear and balancer back out to re do that. Live and Learn... Input shaft spins free but once i put it in gear i cant spin the tranny by hand.
 
Had quite the episode trying to take the shifter lever off.The lock nut was run all the way down. The shifter lever was turning but the part next to thr lock nut is not. Eventually pulled the shifter lever off. We tire to back the lock not up and use channel locks to grasp the part of the shifter that is supposed to unthread. No Luck.

Once the shifter was pulled apart you could see that somebody had been there before. There were Vise grip or channel lock marks that were hid til we pulled apart what shouldn't ever be pulled apart.

Our plan is to cut the shifter. Or would it be easier to take the shifter out of the transmission on a 1994? Not sure how to go about that.

Does anybody have a shifter lever for sale?
 
a 94 trans would have the bottle neck style shift tower, all you do it press the inner part (around the shifter itself) in and turn counter clockwise. this will remove the entire shifter stub.
 
a 94 trans would have the bottle neck style shift tower, all you do it press the inner part (around the shifter itself) in and turn counter clockwise. this will remove the entire shifter stub.

I used a big screw driver for this and gave it a good gab with the palm of my hand.
 
I never could find a PDF so I bought the only Manual I knew of. They sell an electronic copy of the manual but a book in binding is more apealing to me.
 
I used a big screw driver for this and gave it a good gab with the palm of my hand.
Guys, I'm having issues with this right now on my '93 NV4500... I can push down at the notch and see/feel the spring compress as the collar(?) around the shifter stub goes down and I can turn it counter clockwise as I'm doing it but it doesn't seem to be releasing anything.
I can spin the collar round and round the stub without compressing. I can compress and spin at every point around the stub, nothing is releasing.
What am I feeling for? What am I releasing?
 
Guys, I'm having issues with this right now on my '93 NV4500... I can push down at the notch and see/feel the spring compress as the collar(?) around the shifter stub goes down and I can turn it counter clockwise as I'm doing it but it doesn't seem to be releasing anything.
I can spin the collar round and round the stub without compressing. I can compress and spin at every point around the stub, nothing is releasing.
What am I feeling for? What am I releasing?

I answered it here, post #8
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/advice-on-nv4500-shifter-stub-removal.45011/
 
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