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iT'S FINALLY TIME TO SWAP THE nv4500 IN THE 94 K3500 Detailed removal and installatio

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jrsavoie

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iT'S FINALLY TIME TO SWAP THE NV4500 IN THE 94 K3500

Where can I find Detailed removal and installation instructions for the NV4500 and transfer case?

What will I need for gasket or whatever?

The last transmission I changed was a Getrag 5 speed in the 89 in year 2000

And I am definately not quite up to speed yet. Any and all advice will ge greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Jeff
 
I got the quad 4x4 instrutction manual for rebuilds and ill check to see if it has removal instructions and you could borrow it for shipping costs.

Its pretty simple to get out. You will have to remove the tranny crossmember to drop the tcase and suspend the tranny by a jack. It will take some 12pt sockets and torx bits. The crossover has to come out for the bellhousing removal. I did all of the removal without instructions.

I pulled tcase first, then tranny, then belhousing and clutch.

Its a good time to do the rear main and I used rtv for all of my seals.

I will be swapping my rebuilt tranny from Ol' Blue into Da Boss this week if things go as planned. I'll get you some pictures of the hard spots if you think you need them.

My hardest part was getting to bolts on top of the tcase. Took 2 swivels and a good 3/8 ratchet with 18in handle and the shortest angle I could buy at sears.
 
I was planning to park on top 2 2x12's to get the truck a little higher.

Is this enouigh or should I go higher yet?

I have heavy duty jack stands but feel safer with all 4 wheels on wood.
 
Not sure on GM, but I know the DODGE NV4500 specs out to use ONLY anerobic sealer and do NOT use RTV under ANY circumstances. RTV gives to high of a filler gap when it sits up, and can cause tolerance issues. As well as the extra gap from TRV can allow teh case halves to flex more whereas anerobic sealers will squish down to less than a thousandths of an inch. For pulling it out, have a GOOD trans jack as it is one heavy SOB. And I like using my stubby gear wrench for doing the top 2 bolts.
 
I was planning to park on top 2 2x12's to get the truck a little higher.

Is this enouigh or should I go higher yet?

I have heavy duty jack stands but feel safer with all 4 wheels on wood.

Back when, we used to use some long extensions and a swivel socket for the top bolts.

I do not have a good trans jack. I have a 2 ton floor jack and one of those cheesy trans jack adapters.

Do you think that will be sufficient?
 
When i took my trans out i put the truck on 4 ramps. They look the be just short of a foot high. We could barely squeeze the bellhousing past the frame rails out the side with the jacks on the lowest possible setting. Check out my thread for a few pictures.
 
I've got my fronts on a 6in brick block and still had to put the tranny on its side to drag it out. To pull it out I used a bottle jack and 2 24yr old arms lol. Going back up ill use our floor jacks out of the shop and take them to my house.
 
That would probably work fine. Since you drain all the oil before you pull it put tipping it over is no big deal. I'm 5'10 and had plenty of room to work and still be laying on a creeper, tires are 265's so that gives an extra inch over 245's. I had rail road ties to use at first but decided they were too rotten and had bricks just a hair thicker that i used, just jacked the truck up and slid them under.
 
I remember the cross member being tight to take out with torsion bars. Iirc I supported transfer case far back to give room to move cross member then supporting transmission to take off transfer case so an extra jack and or stands are handy. Should take a few measurements of jack stroke and clearances. I had mine pretty high jack Stands on top of 2x12's
 
I didnt have to touch the crossmember with the Tbars.... I pulled the tranny crossmember that the tranny sits on, you are correct that there is not enough between the Tranny cross member and Tbar crossmember.

My tranny had alot of room to be lifted up and down but i'm sure thats hard on the engine mounts.
 
Yes, left the torsion bar member in place but had to remove transmission support member. I did it a long time ago but the first time I took off transfer case and when I tried to support the transmission and remove the transmission cross member my floor jack was in the way of me pivoting the transmission cross member out. The next time I supported the transfer case first and took out cross member then supported transmission and took off transfter case iirc. I can't remember but I think it took an extra bottle jack or maybe I used a jack stand too or something its been a while.
 
The transjack adapter won't work with either of my jacks, so my first step is to make an adapter plate. That'll take a few the only plate I have that is thick enough, is buried behind about 20 minutes worth of steel to move
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Not sure on GM, but I know the DODGE NV4500 specs out to use ONLY anerobic sealer and do NOT use RTV under ANY circumstances. RTV gives to high of a filler gap when it sits up, and can cause tolerance issues. As well as the extra gap from TRV can allow teh case halves to flex more whereas anerobic sealers will squish down to less than a thousandths of an inch. For pulling it out, have a GOOD trans jack as it is one heavy SOB. And I like using my stubby gear wrench for doing the top 2 bolts.
Click to expand...

Didn't see this earlier, i was on my phone. Where can i find anerobic sealer, any brand names to lok for? So far i have only RTV'd the pto plates as I had to get some work done to my input shaft and have been held up for awhile.
 
What size are the bell housing bolts?

Are they 3/8x16 or a metric size?

If they are metric, what size would they be?

I would probably need to order some long bolts or threaded rod from Fastenal

I am going to install long bolts as suggested to make it easier to slide the transmission into place.
 
jrsavoie said:
I would probably need to order some long bolts or threaded rod from Fastenal
Click to expand...
Just so you know, Fastenal has gone almost entirely over to Chinese manufactured hardware and we have been encountering previously unheard of failures in the field of these fasteners of several types and various materials. Right now, we engineers, are fighting vigorously with the upstairs freakingbeancounters to demand all US manufactured and sourced fasteners until we see an improvement by doing selective testing and performance evaluation (read zero fail) of Chinese manufactured hardware.
I have no complaint (from a professional standpoint) with foreign manufactured goods as components of the machines we manufacture but if they fail and, at the very least, cause US to have unsatisfied customers then you can bet I'll get involved and damn quick! A good engineer will always take that kind of shit personal...
 
btfarm said:
Just so you know, Fastenal has gone almost entirely over to Chinese manufactured hardware and we have been encountering previously unheard of failures in the field of these fasteners of several types and various materials. Right now, we engineers, are fighting vigorously with the upstairs freakingbeancounters to demand all US manufactured and sourced fasteners until we see an improvement by doing selective testing and performance evaluation (read zero fail) of Chinese manufactured hardware.
I have no complaint (from a professional standpoint) with foreign manufactured goods as components of the machines we manufacture but if they fail and, at the very least, cause US to have unsatisfied customers then you can bet I'll get involved and damn quick! A good engineer will always take that kind of shit personal...
Click to expand...

Thanks for the heads up.

So where to buy fasteners now? I've been out of the loop for a while now.

I used to buy from MSC & Fairbury Fasteners
 
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