FJ's are real popular diesel canidates.
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Isuzu 4BD2T diesel swap into Suburban
- Thread starter Burning oil
- Start date
handcannon
Well-Known Member
Toyota diesels are hard to come by and expensive here in the states. I've been reading lately about the Cummins B3.3 and QSB3.3 4 cylinder diesel. I really like what I find, not a barn burner for acceleration, but comparable and possibly even better than the stock F or 2F motors, and excellent fuel mileage. But at $4-5 or more it's out of my league.
The Isuzu like you have I think is about the same size as the Cummins 4BT, which means I'd have to do a spring over axle mod to make it fit under the hood and over the front axle and I don't want to do the SOA. However, if I could find one in my price range I'd sure try without going SOA.
I have an 83 C10 pickup with the 6.2 that would be a good heart transplant, but all indications are that it is very high mileage. It burns oil and leaks oil like crazy meaning a rebuild would be needed. At this point this is the most likely swap as I can do a lot of the work myself and I already have most of the parts needed.
Maybe if I can get my wife to agree I can sell one or two excess vehicles to fund a swap.
Don
epowers777
New Member
Don ....it sound like the isuzu 4bd is your best bet. Pm me I know were to get some.
I have decided to go wh a 94 low mile 140k Isuzu 4bd full cut out running 1800 and 400 shipped.
I have a friend looking at the cummins 4bt. He work on them but the company rents them out.
I have decided to go wh a 94 low mile 140k Isuzu 4bd full cut out running 1800 and 400 shipped.
I have a friend looking at the cummins 4bt. He work on them but the company rents them out.
Electrical junction box.
This was my project for the day. I had Bruce make up the positive cables and I made up the Neg's since I had the material to do it.
I made a dual post junction stud from two 3/8" bolts and some 1/4" plate. Welded the bolts to the plate.
The big cable coming in over the Hydroboost comes from the POS side of bat's.
The cable coming out of the bottom go's to the starter.
Cable coming out of right side is a 4 ga and go's to the junction strip on the pass side firewall.
Red cable out of top is going to be for jump starting.
I still need to make a cable from Alt.
The red box below is just a cut off switch. Its hooked up to the neg bat cables. As the bats are under the truck I wanted a way to shut down everything quickly if needed.
This was my project for the day. I had Bruce make up the positive cables and I made up the Neg's since I had the material to do it.
I made a dual post junction stud from two 3/8" bolts and some 1/4" plate. Welded the bolts to the plate.
The big cable coming in over the Hydroboost comes from the POS side of bat's.
The cable coming out of the bottom go's to the starter.
Cable coming out of right side is a 4 ga and go's to the junction strip on the pass side firewall.
Red cable out of top is going to be for jump starting.
I still need to make a cable from Alt.
The red box below is just a cut off switch. Its hooked up to the neg bat cables. As the bats are under the truck I wanted a way to shut down everything quickly if needed.
Thanks, I guess it will get the job done.
understatement!
tanman_2006
Just a farm kid...
http://oklahomacity.craigslist.org/pts/2740229319.html
Thought some people viewing this thread might want to get ahold of this guy. Don't know him but PARTS are important
Thought some people viewing this thread might want to get ahold of this guy. Don't know him but PARTS are important
Thanks Tanner, could be a good hook up for someone.
Got a major obsticle done today, well actualy two! The turbo was fighting me every step of the way. Trying to get the angles on everything was tougher than it looked.
Here it the spacer I had to make. It spaces the turbo out so I can run a straight pipe to it instead of some kind of wierd elbow thing.
Here are the two stainless flanges 1/2" each. Also some flat plate I bent into two "L" shapes
Mocked up before welding
Im going to add some straps on each flat to reinforce the whole thing.
I also got the Down Pipe done today. I'll post that up later.
Here it the spacer I had to make. It spaces the turbo out so I can run a straight pipe to it instead of some kind of wierd elbow thing.
Here are the two stainless flanges 1/2" each. Also some flat plate I bent into two "L" shapes
Mocked up before welding
Im going to add some straps on each flat to reinforce the whole thing.
I also got the Down Pipe done today. I'll post that up later.
- Staff
- #173
Looks good, wish I new how to weld.
I want to make a bracket that connects to the frame for the mud flaps. It would be to get all that weight off the fiberglass fenders.
Maybe one of these days. :skep:
I want to make a bracket that connects to the frame for the mud flaps. It would be to get all that weight off the fiberglass fenders.
Maybe one of these days. :skep:
Crankme69
New Member
Leroy you are an artist, great JOB man! Wish I was closer...I'd be honored just to watch you work and grateful to hand you a tool or grind a weld for ya.
epowers777
New Member
Great job. What type of metal did you use? I want to make a manifold for my Mercedes diesel. Also what's the purpose easier for the down pipe?
I was just at a "big rig" parts supply house the other day and noticed some mud flap brackets. You might check out a local store or google it. Maybe something allready made you can use??
I only post the good stuff :hihi: you don't see all the "F"ups.
The best way to learn is to watch somebody then just get after it.
1. Stainless and mild steel.
2. To move turbo out from behind alt.
Any closer to finding an engine?
Picture of down pipe. Its a full 4" all the way out! It fits in the space pretty good, but is a tight fit.
I redid the mounting on the turbo spacer. (BTW its a t4 to t4 spacer. ) Im going to run some bolts on the top two and some threaded rod on the bottom. This way its cleaner and I won't have to add the reinforcment straps.
I redid the mounting on the turbo spacer. (BTW its a t4 to t4 spacer. ) Im going to run some bolts on the top two and some threaded rod on the bottom. This way its cleaner and I won't have to add the reinforcment straps.
buddy
Active Member
Very cool Leroy, do you think the extra spacer will add too much unwanted torque or harmonics on the exhaust manifold? Basically moved the turbo weight and spinning wheels on a longer arm so its more stress on the mount. I suppose that was the original thought for adding a support strap/brace. Like the GM turbo had that one support bar from the turbo to the intake.