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I'm back with a keeper. .

If you fill the connector with solder, it will get hard as soon as you take the heat away. It's about impossible to crimp it after you solder it. You can solder it after you crimp, but it's a lot more work and hard to accomplish without overheating the cable.

I use heat shrink on the ends.

What did you get for ends?

If anybody sees a deal on Mapp gas torches / presto torches, let me know. Mine are all old, the ignitors don't work and they seem to be leaking all the gas out
 
IMG_0277.JPG IMG_0276.JPG Hey guys I haven't been using my diesel Suburban since I put the new power master starter on her. I only used it once to go pic up a used removable hard top of my 1993 Geo Tracker. I'm on the process of redoing the hard top. It's coming very nice.

I didn't buy ends yet. I did get my new battery cables but I haven't installed them just yet. Busy with other projects and I don't want to install them until I am ready to get some other parts for my Suburban. The list for my Suburban is as follows...

Two new top post batteries. New oil cooler lines. New lift pump with relay. 3 guage pillar pod with boost guage, exhaust temp and trans temp. 2001 duramax fan blade.

I am going to be getting my dealer license and going to start putting my 6.5td to work for me hauling cars back home from auctions on a trailer so... I need to make sure she's in great running condition and ready to tow. Let's not get into what I should do to improve her just yet.

I need help with another vehicle I want to use as my daily driver. It might be off topic because it's not a 6.5td. But it's still one real sweet 1999 Chevy Tahoe Z71 5.7 Vortec with the towing package. I picked it up from the second owner who bought it 12 years ago with only 77,000 miles. It's still got the window sticker and owners manual sitting on top of the RPO code sticker in the glove box. She's got 179,000 miles and a Superchip Cortez tuner in the center console. Only mods I know of are flowmaster exhaust and the PO said it's got a Yukon Denali post rear end with 3.73 gears. The AC system has recently been redone and he took meticulous care of this Tahoe. It drives like new and is in real good condition.

Now the problem with the truck is when I go into 4hi the truck shakes real bad under any acceleration. The PO told me that's the 4 wheel drive is very aggressive because of the posi traction rear end. I never really used 4 wheel drive in my life but I know my Suburban doesn't do that! Anyway it's a real nice truck in great shape and she runs like brand new in 2 wheel drive.

Since I've gotten her home I took off the go Rhino stainless step bar from the front and the two 6 inch KC HiLites. I'm currently selling them on CL for $450 bucks for the step guard with the lights.
 
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Well I spoke to a buddy of mine. I figured out the problem with the 4 wheel drive on the Tahoe. Different gear ratio in the rear vs the front. Going to pull RPO codes and get myself a rear end from the local junk yard that matches my RPO codes.
 
My guess is that your front diff is 3.42 and of course your rear is 3.73. The front half is trying to drag along the rear half when you're in 4Hi (or conversely, the rear doesn't want to stay caught up with the front).
 
Yeah well Now I spoke with the PO he says the rear in the truck he ordered from summit racing and its the correct gear ratio just has heavy duty springs and it drives fine in sand or snow just really aggressive on dry pavement. Can that be true?
 
Will my RPO codes say what my front gear ratio is? If so I'll bundle up and head out to the driveway. My rear is GT40=3.73 I looked at RPO codes night I bought her.
 
6.5TD.Club said:
...I am going to be getting my dealer license and going to start putting my 6.5td to work for me hauling cars back home from auctions on a trailer so... I need to make sure she's in great running condition and ready to tow....
Click to expand...
this is what i want to do after i get a job and settled. think i will use a dolly to start with. i want to get GMT400's or older.
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Will my RPO codes say what my front gear ratio is? If so I'll bundle up and head out to the driveway. My rear is GT40=3.73 I looked at RPO codes night I bought her.
Click to expand...
The only way to know for sure on a used vehicle is to pull the cover and get the numbers off the gears.
I've seen this a few times and the only thing I trust is to count teeth and / or check the numbers on the gears.

Not sure how that works on the front dif.

The RPO codes will tell you what it came with
 
IMG_1104.JPG
deejaaa said:
this is what i want to do after i get a job and settled. think i will use a dolly to start with. i want to get GMT400's or older.
Click to expand...

Thats a great idea deejaaa. That's exactly what I am going to be doing. Last year by march I sold 10 trucks and couldn't sell anymore for the rest of the year! That's why I'm getting my dealer license. No limit and I can go to auctions. I'm renting a 2,000 square foot shop on Monday. I used a dolly a few times and what a damn nightmare if you have to back up loaded or unloaded! A trailer will be my way to go. I just want to make sure my 6.5 Suburban is in optimal shape mechanically.

That's pic is of a parts car I bought. A 1988 Rx7 for 400 bucks it had a blown engine. Needed parts for what sits in my garage. A 1991 RX7 Savanna with only 54,000 kilometers which I had imported from Japan.

jrsavoie said:
The only way to know for sure on a used vehicle is to pull the cover and get the numbers off the gears.
I've seen this a few times and the only thing I trust is to count teeth and / or check the numbers on the gears.

Not sure how that works on the front dif.

The RPO codes will tell you what it came with
Click to expand...

Okay thanks jrsavoie looks like I'll be learning something new. I've never opened a rear diff before to count teeth or look for numbers. Guess I'll google it, I'm sure there are plenty of videos on YouTube that will teach me how to do it. Thanks
 
Of course it would do fine in snow or sand, there is plenty of slippage so one axle turning at a different rate than the other wouldn't be noticable.

Easier than pulling the diff cover and counting teeth (and works for the front diff, too) is just put the rear up on jackstands with your transfer case in neutral, place a paint mark on the rear u-joint saddle, and rotate a rear tire one full revolution while counting the number of revolutions the driveshaft makes. You will easily tell the difference between just over four revolutions (4.11) just under 3 3/4 (3.73) less than 3 1/2 (3.42) without all the mess. Works for the front diff, too. MUCH cleaner and easier than pulling the cover, IMHO.

Also, a heavy duty locker-type rear diff WILL be a lot noiser than a factory Posi-Trac and will create a definite lurching sensation when taking tight corners like driveway entrances, parking stalls and street corners because it doesn't have the differential "slip" that a Posi does before it locks up.
 
jrsavoie said:
The only way to know for sure on a used vehicle is to pull the cover and get the numbers off the gears.
I've seen this a few times and the only thing I trust is to count teeth and / or check the numbers on the gears
Click to expand...


Husker6.5 said:
Of course it would do fine in snow or sand, there is plenty of slippage so one axle turning at a different rate than the other wouldn't be noticable.

Easier than pulling the diff cover and counting teeth (and works for the front diff, too) is just put the rear up on jackstands with your transfer case in neutral, place a paint mark on the rear u-joint saddle, and rotate a rear tire one full revolution while counting the number of revolutions the driveshaft makes. You will easily tell the difference between just over four revolutions (4.11) just under 3 3/4 (3.73) less than 3 1/2 (3.42) without all the mess. Works for the front diff, too. MUCH cleaner and easier than pulling the cover, IMHO.

Also, a heavy duty locker-type rear diff WILL be a lot noiser than a factory Posi-Trac and will create a definite lurching sensation when taking tight corners like driveway entrances, parking stalls and street corners because it doesn't have the differential "slip" that a Posi does before it locks up.
Click to expand...

Sometimes it's not a bad idea to pull the cover just because. I've had trouble on occasion differentiating that 1/4 turn
 
Okay I'm having the Tahoe looked at by my buddy who works for the local Chevy dealer as one of their mechanics. He told me not to worry he'll get her straight.

Now back to my Suburban. The company I ordered the 2 guage wires said I can return the wires I bought from them for a refund so I can get 2/0 wires, Good company. Then I'm just going to buy a set from Spdgofast a buddy of mine who has the thread p400 in the burb. He has a set he purposely made for his burb when it had the 6.5 so he doesn't need them but his is a 1994 mines a 1999 will they work?
 
6.5TD.Club said:
Okay I'm having the Tahoe looked at by my buddy who works for the local Chevy dealer as one of their mechanics. He told me not to worry he'll get her straight.

Now back to my Suburban. The company I ordered the 2 guage wires said I can return the wires I bought from them for a refund so I can get 2/0 wires, Good company. Then I'm just going to buy a set from Spdgofast a buddy of mine who has the thread p400 in the burb. He has a set he purposely made for his burb when it had the 6.5 so he doesn't need them but his is a 1994 mines a 1999 will they work?
Click to expand...
Parts will for sure.

The wire that goes from battery to battery will work.

The grounds will work

The starter cable will work

The alternator cable may work I just add an extra cable going to the battery that does not alreay have an alternator cable going to it. Seems to make quite a difference
 
Regman89 said:
Have a 96 Chevrolet Tahoe I believe the ending up in it and I'll switch the engine out with a new 96 Chevrolet Suburban or GMC Suburban I'm having trouble with my ground locations need some help 5.7 Vortec LS
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Let me resay that I'm doing talk text anyhow have a 96 Chevrolet Tahoe with a 5.7 Vortec it blew up I swapped it out with a GMC 96 Suburban same thing Vortec 5.7 and I was having trouble with my grounds locations and alternator ground location my wiring got mixed up and I have somebody else look at it I think I put a couple wires in wrong spot
 
Regman89 said:
Let me resay that I'm doing talk text anyhow have a 96 Chevrolet Tahoe with a 5.7 Vortec it blew up I swapped it out with a GMC 96 Suburban same thing Vortec 5.7 and I was having trouble with my grounds locations and alternator ground location my wiring got mixed up and I have somebody else look at it I think I put a couple wires in wrong spot
Click to expand...
Welcome to the forum Ragman
 
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