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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

I think with your current setup that's about the best you will see. fuel mileage will change drastically with how much lead is in your foot! but slight changes can be made with proper tire inflation too. what speeds do you normally see in your routeen routes? what size tires are you running, gear ratios, and overdrive function are the keys to getting good mileage. if you do most of your driving on the freeway, then look at what RPM's are at speed. it's a $$$ investment, but a gearvendors overdrive unit coupled to the arse end of your trans might also help. it's like having one extra gear to lower RPM's on the freeway.

I have one on my 93 truck that is behind a 4l80e giving me a double overdrive. it helps on the freeway and I like it. but again it's a heavy investment that will take a while to pay for it's self. Mine paid for it's self already only because the truck had it installed already when I bought it.
 
Well, to answer your questions:

- 33 inch tires
- 3.73 gear ratio
- Stage III 4L60E (OD)

With NYC/LI traffic im on the interstate doing 45-55, many times just barely coasting. When theres light or no traffic im on the 60-65 mark (though when im headed out to LI where my VA is its more empty and i tend to cruise at 70MPH) I don't accelerate fast to that speed so it actually takes me a while (and a downward slope) to reach it.
 
The term is used in two ways. Water mist injection or water methanol injection. Both are used on diesel engines. A fine mist of water is sprayed into the intake while under acceleration to add power and to help cool the incoming air. There is a science behind it that helps improve efficiency and also keeps the combustion chamber clean of carbon buildup. A tiny amount of fine water mist goes a long ways. Too much and kaboom goes the engine. I’ll let others explain it in better detail.
 
with the numbers you are getting- idk if wmi will help much. If you gave egt gauge(s) you could report number on- we would know if it would help.
The way most folks see an improvement is not just using water but the original term of wmi Water/Methonal Injection is the gains from cooling and the methanal itself. Used in a 50/50 mix the water cools the incoming air so more oxygen per cycle can get into the cylinder allowing more power. For the mpg side this requires less happy foot pedal and usng the smaller power increases to be enough. The meth makes the water do the job more efficiently then the meth when it gets to explosion time in the cylinder amplifies the diesel and helps the power which again- you have to keep your foot out of it to get the mpg benefits.

A slightly lesser version of this is an intercooler which requires only initial investment, but requires no maintenance and no tank to refill all the time. Both is best but most folks don’t do both, just an intercooler which is so efficient that it’s impossible to buy a diesel made after year 2000 without one. Thats the second radiator looking thing infront of the actual radiator.
Banks did a good video some years back on his channel explaining how air density is what is critical no boost pressure.
If you do a descent search here you will find some DIY systems as well as guys who ran the complete professional systems which do an amazing job.
Regardless of which you do- I am to the point of STRONGLY recommending a ball valve in the cab that you open/close each time you start & shut off the truck. The systems both use a 12volt electric solenoid- which at some point fails. And if it fails to open- the truck is still drive able. If it fails open, you can save the engine but it will gravity drain water into your cylinders so now before you start the truck you HAVE TO: disconnect and plug the water line. do an oil change, remove all 8 glow plugs crank engine over by hand a few revolutions, then by key a lot of revolutions. Then reinstall the glow plugs, drive the truck and do another oil change within 100 miles or so. Now you put on the new water solenoid and are good until the next solenoid fails. SO… I just say avoid the nonsense and use a manual valve which always works and is cheaper.

OPTION 2

What would be the biggest improvement for you right now imo is a cruise control.
Every car or truck ever does better if traveling for 1 mile continuous speed to be under cruise control than a foot.
Idk how many db2 cruise control units are available out there. They were used in GM trucks & vans, RVs, and in hummers from 1993-1995. All you need to start with is the box with the cable on it and the bracket that mounts the cable to the db2. The controls which go on the turn signal can easily be bypassed by making it power up with the key in the on position and a toggle switch on the dash. A on-off-on momentary. Up will be set middle causes no action and down is coast/off.
You have to feed the box from that switch, from your brake light switch, and the trans/ speed- I can’t remember top of my head but it needs a signal there too.

Without the cruise control system,
What some people do is get a heavy duty cable like the throttle rpm cable used in hmmwvs. It’s like a second throttle pedal that when on freeway you pull out to match your speed then it holds more steady than your foot. Reports on guys doing that is it helps but not as much as the real cruise control and panic moments are bad because you hit the brakes and it doe not automatically shut off so you have brakes and half throttle applied at same time then they jam the throttle cable in fast as possible. While trying to avoid the tesla that just cut them off- haha. So idk if I can recommend that method- that seems more fitting to someone driving past miles of farmland than someone in a city like you or I am.
 
Have you done TIRE CHALKING to know you have right tire pressure for YOUR VEHICLE? Tire pressure on the sidewall is to max out the weight capacity. And as you know airing down helps with traction offroad by giving a longer footprint of tread on the ground.
If your tire is too wide for what it needs, over inflating can balloon the tire and have less drag by imitating a skinny tire. But most tires do best with proper tread contact.

Get a fat piece ofchalk from 99cent store. Metal working chalk works good if you have some. Get your truck on dry flat bit of road - no turns of bumps, parking lots work well. Draw a 1” wide stripe across the tire on front and back tire just driver side. Drive truck in a straight line about 100’. The line should wear away evenly across the tire. If it wears away in the middle you are OVER inflated. If the sides wear away and the middle stays you are UNDER inflated. Adjust tire pressure and test again.
Whenever you get a new set of tires- redo the test to learn proper inflation. Front snd rears are almost always different. This is absolutely the best for long life tire wear and saves money that way. For many, it saves on mpg also.

However, jacked up 4wd with oversized offroad tires are not designed for mpg. You might suffer mpg loss from correcting this. Most who do find a smallmdrop in mpg- it’s proof the hiway skinny tires are best for mpg. Which becomes an option also. The skinny, street tread tires for city& hiway driving with light as possible aluminum rims is how to save mpg, while the off road tires sit in the garage at home or as some of my friends did: stacked two high next to each other with a glass top as their coffee table in an apartment. The offroading time comes up and the hiway donuts become the coffee table. Some trucks they barely save 0.25 mpg. But some saved as much as 4mpg plus the expense offroad tires last a few years longer.

Cutting truck weight helps, but I don’t remember a big pile of tools & rescue gewr in your truck in the back from pics. So unless you find a smokin deal on some fiberglass doors and hood- not a lot of weight you can shed.
 
You can look into an HHO generator but only if you are already invested in premium quality batteries and plug into a battery tender nightly- many that have them swear by them. Scientific minds say it is just turning the electricity from your house into dc power of your battery then the water to hydrogen comes from that so not really saving money, just spending money to make the system work then shifting cost from fuel to the power bill.

Propane injection does the same. You get cooling benefits similar to wmi, and power because you are burning a second fuel. Save on diesel but spend on propane.

Aerodynamics lowers wind resistance which helps mpg- but the impact all begins above 45mph and not really impacting until 55mph. Simply slower wins. The faster you go the more wind resistance goes up. It is-not linear it multiplies. In hummers which are almost the same wind resistance as square body chevy - 65 is double 45. 80 is double 65. 90 is double 80. These are rough numbers remembered from a chart determined in wind tunnel many many years ago.

Hummer/ hmmwv has a flat windshield while yours is sloped. But the hood grille on hmmwv is 1/4 of yours, and there is no axles, steering components, etc hanging down catching wind. A test was done on hmmwvs with the windshield removed and skinny hiway tires on it. It cut wind resistance down to 30% of ehat is normal. Hmmwv brickwall aerodynamics is in 12.5 wide 37” tires and a flat windshield. Yours is the components below the bumper all the way to rear axle, and the big beautiful open grille - then the high roof.

My race truck was a square body. But all fiberglass and a HUGE top chop done. My grille was a bubble sticking out foreward with air intake holes only where I need them so most the air went around. Lowered to the ground & 2wd there was nothing below to catch air.
I put my entire drivetrain in a 4wd truck once to compare 0-60, 60-0, top speed and mpg. Basically 25% of everything was the difference, until I got to 90 mph and above. Race car vs truck became 3 times the difference.
Above 110 mph- that’s the last time I drove a regular truck above 110 that wasn’t a life/death situation. The aerodynamics made 80 vs 120 no real difference in the race truck. But turning on the roundy round rafe track in the “real” truck- nope. On the edge of destruction the whole time.
 
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