How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

[nycxjeremyy]

First time ive seen this logo pop up, what does the battery icon mean

 

[dbrannon79]

Means the alternator isn't charging. check the voltage with a digital meter.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Means the alternator isn't charging. check the voltage with a digital

This is so wack and weird, it does that at start up (starts up fine btw, no hesitation or anything). But when I barely put it in drive it goes away.

Voltage goes up whem driving, dips a bit when at idle.

Guages are dim, ugh

Thoughts? Perhaps the diaob also went bad, do they sell those?

 

[dbrannon79]

would have to get a meter on the battery to verify, but if voltage is good there, need to check voltage in the cab. there might be a loose connection.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Have you tried adjusting the dash lights?

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Have you tried adjusting the dash lights?

Theyre all the way up sir

 

[nycxjeremyy]

would have to get a meter on the battery to verify, but if voltage is good there, need to check voltage in the cab. there might be a loose connection.

Wonder what wire(s) i need to be looking for

 

[dbrannon79]

What are your voltages at the battery and at the back of the alternator when idling. that's the first place to start. I don't remember if the main power into the cab comes from the starter or from a junction block. others would have more knowledge on that. But first things first. see what the voltage is under the hood first.

 

[MrMarty51]

Also, with the multimeter set on AC voltage, and if not an auto range unit, set on the 20 volt range, one probe on the BAT terminal of the alternator and the other probe to ground, if it is reading anything in the AC volts setting then there is a bad diode in the alternator.

 

[DieselAmateur]

With regards to inspection here in NY you don't need to worry about oil leaks. It's a safety inspection so they look at tie rods, pitman arm, wheel bearings tail lights etc. They remove one front wheel to see if you have decent rotors and meat on the pads. With no emissions to worry about and your driveline being solid I don't think you have anything to worry about

 

[Will L.]

YOU CANNOT GO BY “it starts”. You need to use a separate meter on the battery to see what it is actually charging.

Post a pic of the wires plugged into the alternator now so we can see whats been done.

 

[nycxjeremyy]

Going off topic here, but what do we all think about these statements/findings?

From the 6.2/6.5 Support Chat on Reddit.

(Yes, yall should get in on this, very knowledgeable folks here)

 

[nycxjeremyy]

 

[Will L.]

With the db2- we can run atf as the additive. It is way more lubricating and the cleaning agents in it help more. Most diesels (including ds4 6.5) cant run it.
We can actually run off super high amounts- if you run on 100% atf it will smoke.
It used to be how ip & injectors were cleaned on semi trucks- new fuel filters filled with 100% ATF.

The XPD is really good. The biggest two things to watch for:
1. NEVER Mystery Marvel Oil. It is a cutting oil and actually increases friction. No other cutting oil for that reason.
2. NOTHING that is a water emulsifier or emulsion. This promotes blending the water into suspension of the fuel. And it still does the same damage to our older pumps & injectors. (There are growing groups of people that have testing showing it wears the high pressure rail pumps faster too.)
You want things that cause the water to separate from the fuel and have a HIGH QUALITY water separator. FASS water filter is the best. The factory water separator in our rigs is not adequate for modern fuel because it has methanol or ethanol in it to “help” with emissions. It is a very dry alcohol which causes wear. It also suspends water in the fuel up to its own percentage. So 10% ethanol can have 10% water and 80% diesel.
It’s ignorant. It’s insane. It’s infuriating. But it is everywhere at least at 5%.

The “reason” is one gallon of diesel with the alcohol produces less carbon into the air. But the mpg suffers dramatically. So you burn more fuel. Depending on different vehicles and uses- many times MORE over all emissions are produced to move the vehicle the same amount of miles.

With the db2- you can get into producing your own “black diesel”. But if you do it, spend the money ahead of time & do it right. Count using a WMI system to keep the injector tips & valves clean. It probably is best to wait till you go in with a new engine before starting this. You have several more things to fix to get it all happy- the black diesel is its own chore to learn. But the $$ saved is worth it to a lot of folks. So learn about it now & consider for DISTANT future.

 

[dbrannon79]

I've heard XDP is good.

what I use is what iirc @Will L. recommended which is stanadyne lubrictiy formula. it's not usually available off the shelf in local stores. there are several diesel additives stanadyne makes and the one that was tested with all the others was the normal one you find on shelves.

here is what the bottle looks like. it has a purple white label.

 

[jrsavoie]

If you're running bio diesel, you don't have to use a lubricity additive.

But I would definitely add additive to biodiesel, to keep things cleaned up

 

[BIGR]

I've heard XDP is good.

what I use is what iirc @Will L. recommended which is stanadyne lubrictiy formula. it's not usually available off the shelf in local stores. there are several diesel additives stanadyne makes and the one that was tested with all the others was the normal one you find on shelves.

here is what the bottle looks like. it has a purple white label.
View attachment 98001

I run that on ocassion, but mostly used the Stanadyne Performance Formula.

Stanadyne Performance Formula Diesel Fuel Treatment, 16 oz. - 10000588 | Rural King

Stanadyne Performance Formula Diesel Fuel Treatment, 16 oz. - 10000588

www.ruralking.com

I have used the XPD in the past. Couldn't say which one is best, but felt like one of those is better than nothing.

If I recall correctly, my 2006 2500HD owners manual mentions Stanadyne as an approved diesel additive.

 

[Will L.]

The stanandyne is good. There is more than one report showing the he xpd is better.
As for his he biodiesel eliminating the need- I disagree. All the fuel testing we did on different bio fuels- it dramatically changes based on what the fuel was made from. Peanuts, peanut oil is horrible- infact late 90’s the Las Vegas bus system C.A.T. (citizens area transit) was running test fuel from Rebel Oil. By time it was over- tons of engines were replaced. With the local & state governments involved in it- that is what got peanut taken off the list - it was so damaging.

Originally most bio fuels were just oil based fuels. But once corn got rated as acceptable biofuel- you have the same issues as ethanol mixed into natural diesel.
It removes the lubricity instead of adding to it, and suspension or water in the fuel it now cannot be blindly trusted as beneficial.

 

[jrsavoie]

The stanandyne is good. There is more than one report showing the he xpd is better.
As for his he biodiesel eliminating the need- I disagree. All the fuel testing we did on different bio fuels- it dramatically changes based on what the fuel was made from. Peanuts, peanut oil is horrible- infact late 90’s the Las Vegas bus system C.A.T. (citizens area transit) was running test fuel from Rebel Oil. By time it was over- tons of engines were replaced. With the local & state governments involved in it- that is what got peanut taken off the list - it was so damaging.

Originally most bio fuels were just oil based fuels. But once corn got rated as acceptable biofuel- you have the same issues as ethanol mixed into natural diesel.
It removes the lubricity instead of adding to it, and suspension or water in the fuel it now cannot be blindly trusted as beneficial.

Around here we have mostly soy based bio