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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Update on my lights btw:
The good news here is that the hazard lights now work, according to my friends father who was working on it, the 'relay was pulled'. That and the flasher relay was also replaced (it merely blinks faster now).

The bad news: The turning signal lights still do not work as intended, if I try and use either directional, both sides light up as if they were being used as hazard lights. (As shown in the video)

I have no idea what else at this point, the hazard lights switch in the steering column now works, but, the turning signals dont as they should, which is annoying to say the least.

If anyone has any suggestions, please do tell, id like to be able to use my turning signal again.

(1990 K5 Blazer)

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New video · Wednesday, Jan 14 ð¬

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nycxjeremyy said:
Found the damn culprit
View attachment 97593View attachment 97594
Is there a way to make a better end point for those two red wires? Hate how they slid out so easily.

How its supposed to be wired/wired to what:
View attachment 97595
Click to expand...
Get You one of those hand held bead blasters from Harbor Fright, ooops, freight.
Give them internal connectors a good blasting with the wires pulled out, blow off the beads with the air compressor and a blow gun then use a good anti corrosive compound like Truck-Lite NYK and dose them up real good.
Thats hiw I fixed connection issues with my MG and have not had a problem since, been at least fifteen years.
 
on your connector you have a couple of options. for a more factory look, see those other connectors on the same panel that have the plastic clips? venture out to a JY and snip a couple of them off another rig. spice them into the two wires and clip them into the block. other option is to find a keyed hot and splice into it by soldering in a inline fuse and running to those wire..
 
Re-watched your videos. your GP light is flashing on and off as iff there cutting off and on. something isn't right. need to check and see if the GP solenoid is actually cutting off and on like that. might be you have a short on one of the GP wires causing this. Your GP light should turn on and stay on solid for about 8-10 seconds before turning off.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Re-watched your videos. your GP light is flashing on and off as iff there cutting off and on. something isn't right. need to check and see if the GP solenoid is actually cutting off and on like that. might be you have a short on one of the GP wires causing this. Your GP light should turn on and stay on solid for about 8-10 seconds before turning off.
Click to expand...
Was there a temperature sensor on the passenger side of my 1989 that caused a similar issue?

It seems like it went bad or something and caused a similar issue.
 
Possible incoming update, but before that. Are these two related to one another? If so, what would it be? I found it like this (rear pax side)

Also, what volts am I supposed to be on while driving? I was going at 75MPH (yes, heater and radio was on) but even when I shut those off, the bolt meter was at slightly below 13. I suspect the alternator could be going bad (only the batteries were replaced recently) the alternator has been on there since I owned the vehicle. 20260117_194302.jpg20260117_194407.jpg
 
Where exactly is that sensor located in your pic? that looks like something threaded into the block off plate behind the intake. I don't thing GM put anything there and that might be something aftermarket that's not in use.

the temp sensor is usually on the drivers side head by the front of the exhaust manifold for the dash gauge. there should also be another temp sensor up on the thermostat crossover, that one is for the cold advance solenoid on the IP. Only thing I can think if is if there is not one on the thermostat crossover for the cold advance, the one you took a pic of could be what it's for.
 
dbrannon79 said:
Where exactly is that sensor located in your pic? that looks like something threaded into the block off plate behind the intake. I don't thing GM put anything there and that might be something aftermarket that's not in use.

the temp sensor is usually on the drivers side head by the front of the exhaust manifold for the dash gauge. there should also be another temp sensor up on the thermostat crossover, that one is for the cold advance solenoid on the IP. Only thing I can think if is if there is not one on the thermostat crossover for the cold advance, the one you took a pic of could be what it's for.
Click to expand...
Sir that sensor is on the back of the motor, the passenger side, but on the top of the motor, not the side or anything
 
Ok- i wrote a response before my “embrace the suck” comment that didn’t post for some reason.

That sensor is your engine coolant temperature sensor that sends a signal up to your injection pump to tell it to advance for cold timing and to operate the Little solenoid that holds the throttle open slightly more at idle. The purpose of these working is to help it start easier in the cold. You can un thread that sensor and screw in the new one. Some coolant will leak out while you’re doing it so just have the new one right next to you as you remove the old one, and start the threads on it as fast as possible. You won’t lose a ton of coolant, but you will lose some, just top the engine off after it starts with coolant and be sure to bleed the air out.
Well, this might be a small contributing factor to the harder starting in the cold, it is not gonna be the only problem.

That crazy hard starting you’re having, and the glow plug cycling on and off so fast is probably because of that one glow Plug you could not change. Try unplugging that one glow plug and see if it allows you to have the glow plugs on for a longer period of time as you cycle them with the key. The 7 new glow plugs are self regulating, but your bad sensor can also be telling the glow plug controller to turn off way too soon. So that sensor can be impacting it in all three of those ways.

Next, that engine is cranking over really slow, and in the last video before you got the jumpstart, it was cranking over so slow that with perfect glow plugs, cycled as long as they can it still wouldn’t have started. The batteries are hurting.

A bad battery can cause the low reading, even with a good alternator. As well as a bad alternator can keep the battery charged too low and give that low reading. Also bad battery, cables, or battery cable connections can cause it.
So:
Disconnect all four battery cable terminals, clean the batteries and the cables with a wire brush, baking soda mixed with water to make a paste. Then rinse it all with water.
Now you need to load test the two batteries individually. If you don’t have a load tester or have someone you can borrow one from, harbor freight sells a really good one for $17, Centech 100amp. Long-term, it’s a tool worth owning, had mine for 35 years and used it professionally for 20 of that. Short term auto parts. Stores will test it for free, but you have to have the truck or the batteries at their store.

If you have the tool yourself, you can disconnect the other end of the battery cables (clean them like the other end was done on the cables and where the cables attach) then use the load tester to the battery cables by hooking up the other hand back to the battery and the tester to the opposite end of the cables. Now test the battery again through the cables, there should be almost no noticeable difference of width or without the battery cables. If there is a drop in the reading, then you probably need new battery cables.
The factory battery cables are a smaller diameter cable than what is really desired. This is GM being cheapskates. The battery cables you buy at the auto parts store are going to be junk. Buying the cable and the ends, then making your own cables is not too hard of a DIY project, and you will end up with a far better set of cables that will last many, many years and do a better job helping the truck start easier.

Obviously when testing the batteries you might find one or both are toast. If you have one old battery and one new battery, the old battery will draw down the new battery to its level as soon as you hook them up. This dramatically shorten the life of the new battery. Because of this, the smart movies to buy both batteries at the same time.

At some point in time repacing the starter is going to come up. At a minimum get (AC Delco preferably) from a store with lifetime warranty if money is wicked tight. Otherwise the best option and something that will dramatically help the truck with starting better is to buy the Powermaster 9052 starter. It is more expensive and only has a one year warranty. But outside of me smashing one off road ina way that would have ruined any starter- I don’t know anyone that ran a 9052 for less than 7 years or less than 100,000 miles. They spin the engine over much faster and that helps with better compression and builds more heat. There is videos we can show - if you wanna see, just ask.

If you were full of cash, I would say do it all- batteries, cables & starter. And of corse the temp sensor.

As I see it the temp sensor is a must do. Testing alternator is a must do- but you have to have good batteries to test it in the truck or you have to remove it from the truck to take inside autoparts store for testing. Testing batteries is a must do. If batteries test good then cleaning cables is must do and really should test them.


More to come
 
The turn signals: you can get that by having an incorrect bulb in anyone of the turn signal positions. A single filament bulb where it’s supposed to have a dual filament. So in your tail lights, it should use an 1157 bulb because that is a dual filament, meaning one for the turn signals and the other for the running lights(when the headlights are on). Many people put in an 1156 bulb, which is a single filament- jumps across the two posts making the connection which causes your symptoms. My memory escapes what the situation is on your front running lights and turn signal. So I would say start with the rear lights first. Make a video and point out to us which lights are the running lights, and which lights are supposed to be the turn signal, I cannot believe I forgotten, which is which on the square bodies.

On the jumper wire in the fuse box: pinching the female connector down so that it’s tighter that our friend from Alaska mentioned is the correct answer. But if you don’t know how to remove the terminals from the fuse block that can be quite the chore to learn how to do. With the other problems going on right now, I would rather see you use a cheating trick of either:
Bend the tab longitudinally so that instead of a flat blade it makes a very slight U shape. I mean just barely. Like how much your lips curve up when you smirk. 😏

Or get a “fuse tap” that slips over the tab to make it ever so slightly thicker. This is designed to go over an atc fuse which is same size as that tab. Just slip the bottom end over the tab of the spade, cut off the excess. This will allow you to wedge it into the female spade. It will cause it to spread the female more but will hold it solid for a long time. Then in the future (when you aren’t fighting 6 other problems) take apart the fuse box and address it all properly.
 
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