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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Not a 6.2 issue at all, but you all seem knowledgeable enough to know something about this

For the longest, my doors have not been aligned, passenger one seldom gets used, but even closed its noticeable.

That striker has always been like that, unfortunately dont have access to a welder.

But what do you think20251116_124046.jpg20251116_124041.jpg20251116_124018.jpg20251116_123953.jpg20251116_124011.jpg20251116_124026.jpg20251116_124101.jpg
 
Check the hinge pins and bushings, lifting on the back side of the door with it about 1/4 to 1/2 open.
If there is much up/down movement replace the hinge pins and bushings.
If the slack is not present, then lift the entire door and move it back maybe an 1/8th of an inch, and slightly lifting the back of the door.
A floor trolly jack really helps in such matters.
Best to not bend on the hinges, that can create other problems.
There are others in the forum much wiser than I about such matters, maybe they’ll provide some better advice.
 
I think AK is right. the door is sprung from an accident. could have been replaced at one point. back then no two body panels or doors were the same. so if you tried to do a door or body panel replacement especially from a used donor, likely they would never perfectly line up. you can get close but not perfect. your cab could also be tweaked some from a wreck.
 
If this was involved in a wreck, or had some questionable body work done on it, it was done long before I bought it.

Youre right on the money with the bondo though, me and burban bro looked at it, knocked on it, sure enough it is bondo (ugh).

I have good news though, my friends father has a Welder, is there anything I should have prior to doing such a job? Got black primer on the list.

Not sure if i should have the cracks welded or get a metal plate.
 
Find a donor vehicle that is good in the area of the striker bolt.
Use a right angle grinder and a cut off wheel and saw out a portion of that pillar four or five inches above and the same below.
Then make the vertical cuts.
Take that piece home and make the same cuts on Your current wehicle.
Weld in the new to You section, just a small area to paint.
 
Make sure if there is ANY play in the hinges : when the door is open, lift up on the end of it and feel for freeplay as it goes up & down. There should be NONE. If there is some, replace the bushings and possibly pins as well. It’s annoying but required.

Doing them by yourself, you might have to find a tree and rope or ratchet strap to tie the door to with the window rolled down. With it holding the weight, knock out the pins, swing the door away from the truck and replace the bushings. Then put door back in place and hammer in the pins. Now the door will stay true and you can adjust the hinges so it swings to the proper closed position, obviously adjusting the striker you will reinstall after welding that up.
 
Will L. said:
Make sure if there is ANY play in the hinges : when the door is open, lift up on the end of it and feel for freeplay as it goes up & down. There should be NONE. If there is some, replace the bushings and possibly pins as well. It’s annoying but required.

Doing them by yourself, you might have to find a tree and rope or ratchet strap to tie the door to with the window rolled down. With it holding the weight, knock out the pins, swing the door away from the truck and replace the bushings. Then put door back in place and hammer in the pins. Now the door will stay true and you can adjust the hinges so it swings to the proper closed position, obviously adjusting the striker you will reinstall after welding that up.
Click to expand...
Update:

No play on the pax door hinges, damn things were solid, me and my boys father were trying with it, solid.

We did that, no tree or anything though lmao, but damn does it close better, no more dragging on the pax door striker.

Driver side door.....theres play on the hinges, oddly enough ( the photos that you see are from the passenger side) the gap isn't horrible. We will come back to it another day. Both strikers have been welded, and both doors have been adjusted.
 
I would still pull the inner door panel and have a look see at the inner skin of the door. see what your previous damage is. sometimes it's just a whisky dent and rather than pull it, bondo it... worst case is it was pealed open like a tin can. tack welded and bondo. it will tell you if later down the road to keep your eyes pealed for a replacement door.
 
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