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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

IDR all the procedure but one orocedure I do remember, take it to the body shop if motor/channel units nee replaced.
I would pull door panels but for some reason the process of pulling motor and channels was always more than I liked to mess wit. 😹😹😹😹
 
Well, actually got that sorted out, thankfully.

Question now:

1. Power steering lines are leaking (pretty badly too), what's a decent line kit out there? On that note, what's a good Power Steering Pump replacement aswell? May as well if im getting back there

2. Looks like the pitman arm may be a factor as to why my Steering wheel is more of a suggestion wheel, I assume rock auto may have replacement kits. Gonna peep it soon.
 
the hoses are decent from any auto parts but the pump.... if yous is leaking but still working perfectly fine, I would just get a seal kit for it. if you have to replace the pump, it will never be the same. trust me when I say most places make a "one size fits all" and junk rebuilt and aftermarket pumps, steering gears, anything hydraulic for vehicles. the orifice and pressure valve in your pump was sized to fit your rig from GM, replacing it with another and your just looking for problems.

those steering pumps usually will last longer than the rig it's self so long as you fix the leaks. the seal kits are easy to install, all you will need is to get their loaner tool power steering pump pulley removal/install tool. and maybe a set of cheap snap ring pliers for the shaft seal. not to mention a bench vice will be your friend too. plenty of youtube videos out there on how to rebuild the GM saginaw steering pump. only one thing to keep in mind, if you have any experience with how hydraulic system work, when you open up the pump, there is a rotor with steel veins. the veins are flat steel square pieces that fit into slots on the rotor. you need to take note which edge is in the slot and the edge that is against to outer housing. they are rounded and are worn into each other. if you install them in a different orientation that they were before, the pump won't pump as well as before due to the machined surfaces have mated and sealed. a good detailed youtube video will tell you this, it's the same concept as why you put an engine back together with used the push rods and lifters back on the same valve they were on before. the parts have all worn in together, changing the parts around creates tiny gaps in the sealing surfaces allowing fluid to bypass and not seal, also causes more wear.

taking the veins out of the rotor you can use a marker to mark the side and edge noting the right direction. it doesn't matter which slot they go in, only that they go back in in that same direction they came out. if that makes sense.
 
nycxjeremyy said:
Well, actually got that sorted out, thankfully.

Question now:

1. Power steering lines are leaking (pretty badly too), what's a decent line kit out there? On that note, what's a good Power Steering Pump replacement aswell? May as well if im getting back there

2. Looks like the pitman arm may be a factor as to why my Steering wheel is more of a suggestion wheel, I assume rock auto may have replacement kits. Gonna peep it soon.
Click to expand...

Check the rag joint on the steering shaft for bad rubber causing slop from the steering wheel to the box.

Unless the power steering pump is noisy or leaking DON'T TOUCH IT! Just replace leaking lines and perhaps a filter on the return line from the steering box. A filter, any restriction actually, on the hydrobooster return line can hold the brakes on. Otherwise use a NEW steering pump. If you are desperate get one off a clearly wrecked vehicle in a junk yard: because it was at least working. Remans are poorly repainted junk, if they even work out of the box, some are waiting to glitter bomb the oil with metal and take out the steering box and hydrobooster. The other PIA bolt on the engine aside of the starter rear brace is the PS bracket mid block bolt. I only use new steering boxes and PS pumps when I need to replace my stuff now: I find it's cheaper than doing the job over plus any collateral damage parts changing. No new available: it's junkyard time if mine can't be rebuilt locally.
 
Thanks for the advice on Power Steering pump sirs.

Wonder from where (assuming i really do have air intrusion), swear I dont have any leaks.

Welp, im possibly headed to Minneapolis this weekend apparently (9 hours) so im now getting the K5 ready for yet another long distance trip
 
Without the signature line filled out, I can’t recall what you have or haven’t done for lift pump, fuel pressure gauge, clear line. Besides this site there are more that myself and others go to and try helping various people.
You should have a 6.2 with mechanical lift pump factory that feeds a square fuel filter.
The mechanical lift pumps are known to drain back through causing this and pulling air in back from the return line side as well as suck air from the metal line connecting ports. Get used to the fights and accept it or make upgrades.
Electric lift pump so that when key is on lift pump is running. This primes the injection pump when glows are on and ready to go when cranking.
More so the mechanical lift pump took out more engine bearings than anything else ever did in these.
Upgrade the square filter nightmare gm abandon for good reason.

Best answer to both of these is fass combo unit that is painfully expensive but worth it.

Focus that camera on one of two things when cranking and hard start: fuel pressure gauge or the clear line on the ip return. Seeing when the glow plug light is on is helpful so if that and fuel pressure gauge can be seen at same time- that is ideal. A second camera like an old phone or go-pro on the clear line at same time is great.
 
Hey yall.

To answer your question, I do currently have a mechanical lift pump, its actually new(ish), only a few months old as earlier in the year (winter months) it had actually failed and was sucking air in, ever since it being replaced, it has not surged the way it used to before, i even did a clear line test on it recently, no signs of air bubbles.

I blame my rough start on not having the foot on the pedal halfway (40°F when cranked), it was even colder this morning and when I cranked (cycled the GP 4 times, and held the pedal half way) it fired right up.

I think I figured out the signature block thing btw, hopefully it shows

Edit: should the signature block not show, here is what I have:

1985 6.2 Detroit Diesel, ATS Turbo Kit
4L60E
 
Last edited:
Yup, signature is showing.
Nice job.
Signature can be added to and taken away from as improvements come down the road.
I used to always replace the mechanical pumps with new mechanical pumps, way back in the olden times when You would buy fuel, gasoline or diesel, and thats what it was.
Each brand had their own blends so they could claim mine is the best, better fuel mileage, higher octane/cetane rating but that now has mostly gone away.
The fuel is crap and so is the components thats suppose to be used for vehicular delivery, hoses, pumps, etc.
The fuel rots the hoses and things like internal components within the pumps, no matter what brand it is, its all chinese junk that dont last more than a year, maybe two, but then, comes the expense of doing the repairs after fuel hoses and pumps have disintegrated from the crap fuel or the crap material used for things like pump diaphragms or seals within the gearotor types of pumps.
Thats why high dollar, high quality components is about near essential when uprating components on these engines.
It is really nice to have the expertise of the members in this forum to guide us into whats good, whats not so good, and, absolutely do or do not do this or that.
Keeps me coming back here so I too can learn.
 
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