• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

IDR all the procedure but one orocedure I do remember, take it to the body shop if motor/channel units nee replaced.
I would pull door panels but for some reason the process of pulling motor and channels was always more than I liked to mess wit. 😹😹😹😹
 
Well, actually got that sorted out, thankfully.

Question now:

1. Power steering lines are leaking (pretty badly too), what's a decent line kit out there? On that note, what's a good Power Steering Pump replacement aswell? May as well if im getting back there

2. Looks like the pitman arm may be a factor as to why my Steering wheel is more of a suggestion wheel, I assume rock auto may have replacement kits. Gonna peep it soon.
 
the hoses are decent from any auto parts but the pump.... if yous is leaking but still working perfectly fine, I would just get a seal kit for it. if you have to replace the pump, it will never be the same. trust me when I say most places make a "one size fits all" and junk rebuilt and aftermarket pumps, steering gears, anything hydraulic for vehicles. the orifice and pressure valve in your pump was sized to fit your rig from GM, replacing it with another and your just looking for problems.

those steering pumps usually will last longer than the rig it's self so long as you fix the leaks. the seal kits are easy to install, all you will need is to get their loaner tool power steering pump pulley removal/install tool. and maybe a set of cheap snap ring pliers for the shaft seal. not to mention a bench vice will be your friend too. plenty of youtube videos out there on how to rebuild the GM saginaw steering pump. only one thing to keep in mind, if you have any experience with how hydraulic system work, when you open up the pump, there is a rotor with steel veins. the veins are flat steel square pieces that fit into slots on the rotor. you need to take note which edge is in the slot and the edge that is against to outer housing. they are rounded and are worn into each other. if you install them in a different orientation that they were before, the pump won't pump as well as before due to the machined surfaces have mated and sealed. a good detailed youtube video will tell you this, it's the same concept as why you put an engine back together with used the push rods and lifters back on the same valve they were on before. the parts have all worn in together, changing the parts around creates tiny gaps in the sealing surfaces allowing fluid to bypass and not seal, also causes more wear.

taking the veins out of the rotor you can use a marker to mark the side and edge noting the right direction. it doesn't matter which slot they go in, only that they go back in in that same direction they came out. if that makes sense.
 
Back
Top