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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

on the 6.2 block I have they both fit just fine. but then again there is a long body one that has coarse threads.

@Will L. your a DB2 guru, how can one tell visually which one he has vs what will fit and work best in Jeremy's blazer. I think the best option would be to carefully remove the #1 injector, post a good clean photo along with getting the numbers off the body.
 
Honestly idk the difference other than the body length. it's the precups in the head that make the difference between turbo and non turbo. Will knows more about that part. iirc the amount of fuel isn't controlled by the injector, it's controlled by the IP so you should be good.
 
My name is Will, get ready to drink from the firehose…

I can’t remember how to tell which is which- just know to VERY CAREFULLY start to thread them in incase it is wrong.

None of the 6.2 had a turbo factory, the 6.5 also started without a turbo- later they are added but were always undersized from GM.

As to using n/a nozzles on an engine with a Turbo- yes it works but it doesn’t work near as good as it can. N/A was 1850 psi and turbo was 2250psi by the time GM figured out which way was up. How much is for mpg vs power vs emissions? Internet arguments #4 & #5. Results are…. It changes based on your set up and use.

This is where learning to diy stuff, having the tools and doing it pays off. Having a turbo on a 6.2 is a customized ordeal. When they first did it, they added a turbo and it made it better, but they left a lot on the table. That small turbo leaves a lot on the table. Idk if it would be worth getting injectors dialed in on it because imo the new injectors will probably outlive the turbo. Generally I tell people redo injectors at 100,000 miles but they will live double that. It’s just that you are leaving mpg and power on the table when you go much over 100k.

That engine is tired. Idk how much longer it will withstand- could be quite a while but in all honesty- I say nurse it along and focus on rebuilding a different engine. Do it correctly from ground up and have it last the life of the rest of the truck.
Being what it is, long term you can justify pumping some money into it because it will be a decent daily driver, then when you tire of it, it will sell for enough to bring in what you pay into it.

With injectors, ideally a guy gets a pop tester and learns to rebuild them himself. Not a hard task, just annoying. You start with two sets, take set #1& get them to pop within 25psi of each other. At say 2200 psi. Build set #2 at 2300 psi.
Install set 1 and test drive recording 0-60 & mpg. Swap in set 2 again recording 0-60 mph & the mpg. Each time you drive it to work & such during the week. Weekend comes and swap the sets. Now when you remove set #1, build them to 2400 psi. You will build a Bell Curve of performance and mpg.
Continue until you see results fall. Image peak is somewhere between 2300 & 2400. Now you build a set to 2350. Now best is say between 2350 & 2400 so you build a set at 2375psi. Now you will have found the optimal pressure for your truck with your turbo in your situation for your purpose. Then you build the other set to match. Now you are set for the for the next 200,000 miles at peak performance.

But understand going from a 6.2 to a 6.5 changes the peak performance.
So can a turbo swap, adding an inter cooler, new injection pump, better air intake or exhaust.

The 6.2 has larger valves than a 6.5. This is always better. Problem is removing 6.2 heads and building a new engine with the old heads- they aren’t always reusable.
You never know what it is until it’s torn all apart. The draw back of 6.2 heads is some are hard to get injector bodies for - the earlier mentioned different threads.
Also the larger valves in the 6.2 that help with mpg and power… crack easier than the 6.5 smaller valve heads. But if I was building an engine and had both 6.2 & 6.5 heads in good condition-I’d use the 6.2 for the valves. You can spend a pretty chunk of money and have 6.2 valves cut into 6.5 heads but it isn’t worth it unless you are doing a top end build.

Your turbo being undersized- run it until it dies but save up cash to replace it. An hx35/40 hybrid is probably your best bet.
Try coming up with a used inter cooler from someone with a newer truck who upgraded their stock one for a high performance one is the normal money saving move to get one. It goes in front of your radiator, has air go from the filter to the turbo. From turbo through the inter cooler and to the turbo. Colder air is better for everything always in an engine for both mpg and power, better to avoid overheating, helps keep engine oil cleaner, about the only thing it can’t do is skin you deer for you after you bag it. Drawbacks- $ & time to install, more stuff innthe way when working one engine. More things that can break and need repair. How good is it? There is not a single turbo engine diesel or gas that doesn’t have one factory now, It is a definite worth while investment.

So…
What to do now? Probably just drop in stock injectors. Get an estimate how much to adjust the set to within 25psi of each other. It is ALWAYS best to have them balanced. It helps all engines and doesn’t matter if mpg, power, long life, emissions- it helps them all. But if it’s enough to pay for itself or how long it takes depends on cost they charge and how bad they were to begin with. So roll the dice when ya feel lucky.
 
I think Will was referring to the GM factory turbos that mainly come on the 6.5's didn't you have a banks turbo kit on yours?

preventive measures on checking the health of a turbo: remove the intake boot to access the impeller, with the engine OFF, grab hold of the center nut that holds the impeller to the shaft and wiggle it side to side / up n down checking for play. do this and turn the impeller by had seeing if it makes contact with the housing. no contact and no excessive play, plus it spins freely, it should be fine. further more, if the impeller housing has evidence of oil and there is no tube going to the boot where the it could suck oil from the engine, you might have the turbo seals leaking, that is very bad. most of out setups have the CDR connected to the rubber boot on the turbo so the turbo impeller is always wet with oil because of this.
 
dbrannon79 said:
I think Will was referring to the GM factory turbos that mainly come on the 6.5's didn't you have a banks turbo kit on yours?

preventive measures on checking the health of a turbo: remove the intake boot to access the impeller, with the engine OFF, grab hold of the center nut that holds the impeller to the shaft and wiggle it side to side / up n down checking for play. do this and turn the impeller by had seeing if it makes contact with the housing. no contact and no excessive play, plus it spins freely, it should be fine. further more, if the impeller housing has evidence of oil and there is no tube going to the boot where the it could suck oil from the engine, you might have the turbo seals leaking, that is very bad. most of out setups have the CDR connected to the rubber boot on the turbo so the turbo impeller is always wet with oil because of this.
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Sir, my kit is the ATS one, not Banks

Also, will do this when I get back
 
My boy did the finger test, he said it eats the whole finger.

It’s about a 1/4 he says.

Pic for reference, what do you all say? Should he send a different angle? Was getting the long body injectors the right call?

Snapchat-421390351.jpg
 
I still feel like those are the short body ones. but tbh I think there is no difference between the two other than length. it's only a 1/4" height difference so you might have to massage the IP lines if anything. chances are your lines will fit just fine due to when it rolled off the assembly line it most likely had long body injectors.

the only fitment issue one would run into is on the turbo side where the exhaust manifold turns up to connect the turbo. the distance, when I got the engine I have here, it had long body injectors installed with turbo manifolds. the line nut was up against the manifold.

I don't think you will have this issue since that manifold is a "one of a kind" and is different seeing how your turbo is in a different position than a factory turbo. When you get them in the mail. remove one and verify the type.

I assume Chris sent you the ones in the mail, he builds these engines and knows them like the back of his hand. you could ask him what he thinks, but I think for a daily driver you will be perfectly fine. main thing is if they are pressure balanced, that is the real key to these engines, and I'm sure coming from him, they are balanced and ready to go dancing!
 
dbrannon79 said:
I still feel like those are the short body ones. but tbh I think there is no difference between the two other than length. it's only a 1/4" height difference so you might have to massage the IP lines if anything. chances are your lines will fit just fine due to when it rolled off the assembly line it most likely had long body injectors.

the only fitment issue one would run into is on the turbo side where the exhaust manifold turns up to connect the turbo. the distance, when I got the engine I have here, it had long body injectors installed with turbo manifolds. the line nut was up against the manifold.

I don't think you will have this issue since that manifold is a "one of a kind" and is different seeing how your turbo is in a different position than a factory turbo. When you get them in the mail. remove one and verify the type.

I assume Chris sent you the ones in the mail, he builds these engines and knows them like the back of his hand. you could ask him what he thinks, but I think for a daily driver you will be perfectly fine. main thing is if they are pressure balanced, that is the real key to these engines, and I'm sure coming from him, they are balanced and ready to go dancing!
Click to expand...
Thank you so much for your words sir,

Perhaps (as always) i am overthinking this, the good news is that these injectors will arrive as i return back from NYC, so we will see next week how they (hopefully) fit
 
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