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How do you all get 6.2s to 300K miles

Yup. Thats looks like them to me.

You can have them re-use the metal part of the lines or you can remove those flare adapters and just use regular fittings and route the houses as you see fit trying to keep the hose away from the hot exhaust as much as possible and in a way that follows the frame up to the front to the oil cooler.

Those older style are more reliable than what GM did later.
I would carefully investigate them for any signs of seeping, leaking, getting soft in any part, and chaffing, etc.

The ones Leroy sells will NOT replace theses.

This becomes the guessing game. Original high quality ones are nla. Aftermarket ones are not as good as original but originals will fail in time. Replacing pre made aftermarket ones is better than running originals until they fail is obviously not good. How much longer do these last is the gamble.

I’m in favor of industrial hydraulic hoses in place of them. Give me a few minutes and I’ll post pics of what hmmwvs/ Hummer used as the example- they used the same type of industrial hydraulic hose I am referring to.
 
ak diesel driver said:
If his cooler is in the rad the premade kit may not work.
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I haven't looked at changing lines on a vehicle with the cooler in the radiator.

It seems to me if he got the complete kit with the cooler, he should be able to install the kit. He probably would need the line holder brackets.
I've used one hole clamps for that.
 
jrsavoie said:
I haven't looked at changing lines on a vehicle with the cooler in the radiator.

It seems to me if he got the complete kit with the cooler, he should be able to install the kit. He probably would need the line holder brackets.
I've used one hole clamps for that.
Click to expand...
Then run the hoses along the lower side of the block, like the 1988 trucks ? ?
 
Since I'm running a new aluminum
dbrannon79 said:
You sure what you have your hand on isn't the power steering lines? the oil cooler lines should run along side the block where the pan meets the block up to the front where the harmonic balancer is then transition to rubber under the fan shroud to the oil cooler that sits in front of the radiator. you shouldn't be able to access them from under the hood.
Click to expand...
Faily certain those are the oil cooler lines

photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Jeremy

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl

(Peep the oil leak, hate how much it is)
 
Yep those are the oil cooler lines. looks like they are leaking at the crimps. also as AK said, your valve covers are leaking also. if you look at where your injectors are on the engine, that area all looks oil soaked. that would be coming from the valve covers.
 
What I like to do before attacking oil leaks is to get some water base degreaser or some oven cleaner from the dollar store. spray everything down and let it soak in about 15 minutes. then get ready to wear all the grease HAHA. if you have a set of ramps put the front end up on them and use a power washer to wash everything under the hood. start off by washing from the bottom everywhere you can, then go in from under the fenders and wheel wells. then attack from the top side. let it dry off and look around taking a mental note of what's clean and oil free.

if you need to wash some more, go for it. Now that you have a clean engine, drive it around the block some, come back and inspect for fresh oily wet areas on the engine.

9 times out of 10, you will find that the oil leaks come from valve covers and then maybe front timing cover area. oil cooler hoses / lines or connections.

valve covers are a PIA to do on these engines due to having to pull the intake off and remove the injector steel lines. they are also a PIA to get sealed too.

when your ready to do that job, don't get gaskets. use the can of cheese wiz called the right stuff. have you a straight edge ruler, a 1/2" or larger dowel flat punch and a rubber mallet. this is to get the sealing surface back to flat. with the valve covers off if you look at the flatness, you will find that where a bolt goes, it will be slightly bowed in allowing in between each bolt hole to be bowed up crating a gap area for oil to leak.

the valve cover does not need to be perfectly flat on the sealing surface but it needs to be checked and probably need to tap on them in the area of each bolt hole so the in between spaces will touch the head first. the cheese wiz can of the right stuff will be applied on the sealing surface of the valve cover in about a 1/4" bead. and when installed, you don't need to go ham on tightening the bolts down. going ham on the bolts is what causes them to bend out of shape. once the covers are installed with the new sealant, put it all back together but don't run the engine until it sits overnight for the sealant to cure. Oh and BTW, clean the valve covers sealing surface and head surface so it's oil free. you might even get some paper shop towels and soak up any standing oil in the head that's near the sealing surface too. it helps.
 
one other place that is prone to leak oil is the drain on the bottom of the turbo. look at it and follow it to where it goes into the engine. depending on how cruddy oily and greasy the engine is, you might be scrubbing and cleaning for a while. once good and clean, drive and inspect.

when power washing, don't be afraid to point the power washer wand in between the IP and under the intake into the valley of the engine, that area can be full of oil, old fuel, and debris. the only area you need to be mind full of is the tiny return hoses that jump from each injector. after a good washing those if old might start leaking fuel. it's always a good thing to make sure those are in good shape and if never replaced, go ahead and plan on replacing them.

Be sure to cover the intake opening so water doesn't go into the intake unless it's sealed up to the turbo, you don't want to put water down the throat of the engine.
 
Holy cow that is alot, and im not gonna lie, I actually like the oil leaks.....it keeps it rust free (least what my friend with a 454 Suburban keeps telling me)

South Dakota can be..... very unforgiving to these type of vehicles, it's a miracle mines even this clean up here

Side of motor after cleaning it:
photos.app.goo.gl

New video by Jeremy

photos.app.goo.gl photos.app.goo.gl
 
dbrannon79 said:
Yep those are the oil cooler lines. looks like they are leaking at the crimps. also as AK said, your valve covers are leaking also. if you look at where your injectors are on the engine, that area all looks oil soaked. that would be coming from the valve covers.
Click to expand...
Time to replace them, then? The hoses look and feel new, not dry rotting or anything
 
if it's not leaving puddles or lots of drip spots on the ground everywhere you park, I wouldn't worry about other leaks like valve covers. with valve cover leaks, you main concern is oil getting into the starter and it going out. worst case is when the starter is hot from the engine running a while and you pull into the drive through, shut it off and it doesn't want to re-start due to oil soaked motor windings shorting out. replace the starter and keep going....

as for the oil cooler lines. just clean them off real good around the hoses, crimps, and metal lines. run it a while and keep checking for where they are leaking. you don't want those leaking, if in doubt, replace. if they blow it can take out our engine in seconds. leaking gaskets are not gonna ruin you engine so long as you keep the oil topped off. it's the cooler lines where when they blow, it's game over.
 
dbrannon79 said:
if it's not leaving puddles or lots of drip spots on the ground everywhere you park, I wouldn't worry about other leaks like valve covers. with valve cover leaks, you main concern is oil getting into the starter and it going out. worst case is when the starter is hot from the engine running a while and you pull into the drive through, shut it off and it doesn't want to re-start due to oil soaked motor windings shorting out. replace the starter and keep going....

as for the oil cooler lines. just clean them off real good around the hoses, crimps, and metal lines. run it a while and keep checking for where they are leaking. you don't want those leaking, if in doubt, replace. if they blow it can take out our engine in seconds. leaking gaskets are not gonna ruin you engine so long as you keep the oil topped off. it's the cooler lines where when they blow, it's game over.20250402_111848.jpg
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20250402_200332.jpg
This is typically how much oil it leaks

Will wash those clamps off and check to see if they are leaking or not though
 
doesn't look terrible. the oil sheen on the water makes it look worse that it is. I would just clean it up best you can. might even spray some brake cleaner to dry up around the injectors too while your at it and just drive it. keep tabs on where it starts to show fresh wet spots and oily areas. you'll know in a day or so exactly where the leaks are.

in the future once you find all the leaks, we can help you along the way when you want to attack them.

I did notice in one of your pics that a clamp on one of the oil cooler lines looked to be wet with oil. those areas are suspect. if you want to keep your existing lines and use the factory oil cooler that's in the radiator, you'd most likely need to remove the lines from the truck to cut the clamps off and replace the rubber hose. otherwise you can get the complete kit from Leroy that comes with steel braided hoses and a cooler that you can mount in front of the radiator. this would eliminate the factory cooler completely. just depends on what your prefer and what you want to spend.

cheap is to replace the rubber hose on the existing lines, higher cost but better for long term is the kit. labor is about the same imo.

just keep in mine that hoses might look good on the exterior, but if they are factory for your truck, they are at this point 45 years old.
 
Ill do what I can to find the leaks, or see if it is leaking, however, im not quite sold on the external oil cooler, as I already have a new aluminum radiator connected to it, and it keeps it fairly cool, at +80 MPH, even when it's 70°F here it doesn't go past 185

More photos of the oil cooler lines btw, clamps from both ends

also, someone recommended me this, looks like the one i have currently

20250428_183031.jpg20250428_183102.jpg20250428_183125.jpg20250420_125950.jpg20250420_125815.jpg
 
Slightly off topic, but given that we're on the topic of oil....

1. Best oil brand? (Valvoline, Rotella, etc) and if Rotella, T4 vs T5 vs T6 vs T7

2. What do you all think about Diesel Oil Treatments? HotShots, ArchOil, etc

(https://www.hotshotsecret.com/signature-series-oil-pack/

https://www.archoil.com/products/ar...fNcjUHmPqwe7XEVh9bRIQAOKU4z_qvXyBpwGbmnpRA-fT )

Changing my oil soon, so its been on ny head lately

Also, should I change the fuel filter along with every oil change aswell? Currently using the WiX spin on filter
 
What type of driving do you do and how fast do you put the miles down on it? it's hard to get into one brand vs another without being bias for or against one or the other. what are you running now?. main thing is listen to your engine, it will tell you what it likes!

my 2 cents is stay away from Penzoil for any vehicle gas or diesel! worst oil that was ever made, full of paraffin wax. I've seen too many gassers that were religiously changed at their 3k or 5k intervals and end up sludging up to the point of clogging up the oil pickup tubes and destroying engines.

I went though different brands of oil on my 95 and overall it seemed to like the Mobil 1 synthetics. I will run 15-40 in the summer and 5-40 in the winter. no oil additives unless your trying to bandaid a problem.

Valvoline is good, so it Rotella (I like the T5 or T6), also Amzoil, and Mobil are all good oils. if you have a local Napa and want to save a little bit, their house Napa branded oil is made by Valvoline.

And yes, always replace the filter with an oil change. Stay away from Fram filters and iirc WarWagon will tell you to steer clear of AC Delco filters too. I run Fleetguard or Donaldson filters mainly because I can get them cheap through my work. those two companies specialize in filters for industrial equipment so I assume they produce a better quality filter over what the auto parts stores carry.

send in oil samples and that will also tell you what your engine needs or wants and when to change the oil too.
 
There is a test you can do to see how much parifin wax is in the oil along with how much evaporates with high temps. get you a hot plate and a glass container like disposable coffee erns. heat the fresh oil up to what the temps would be in your engine, hold it there and watch... let it cool and reheat multiple times watching for it to get darker and start forming black specs in the oil. the black specs that form is the wax. the more it's heat cycled, the more form and the larger and harder the wax gets. when the oil is in the crankcase it's also getting carbon and soot introduced which is what turns the oil in diesels black in a hurry. in a gasser it's a little different but still gets carbon along with gas byproduct along with raw gas which turns the oil brown over time.

On youtube there is a channel called Project Farm. this guy did a good teat demo on heating oils along with how they work in the cold and when hot.
 
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