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Help with IP ID

W

wyattearp

Member
Messages
73
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Location
McCall, Idaho
All,

Its been a while. I'm trying to determine when and what vehicle the DS2831-4911 injection pump was used. I could not find anything on the sticky or on a search thru the threads. Any help would be appreciated.
 
The labels are removed, and blank labels are bought by pump rebuilders who are responsible to stamp the correct numbers onto the new blank plate.
That pump was rebuilt (hopefully) and the guy messed up and did “DS” by mistake. That is a DB pump.

The DB2831-4911 is the most sought after pump because it was the one that can be a good daily driver or hopped up power one. (There are others that do the same thing- but that number got popular online for some reason.)
It is possible just the numbers are stamped and plate installed and it has nothing to do with what the pump really is. I have seen several ebay pumps this happened to. Basically bait and switch- Hopefully not yours.

What is the deal- was that on your truck and now you need a new pump? Thinking about buying it? Or what...

Try your search with “dB” instead of “dS”.
 
Will, your explanation sounds reasonableIt came off of a donor engine. This is a for a truck project I am working on. At the time I got the motor, I was still recovering from a pretty bad car accident (head-on with a semi) so I did not go over the engine with a fine toothed comb. I wanted it mostly for brackets, manifolds, etc and the IP
 
More detail, I'm doing a frame-off restoration of an 1985 Chevy K30 crew. The frame has been shortened for a short box. The motor going in is a military take-out motor. I have an A-Team turbo to go on it as well
 
DUDE! What ever happens, just say “yeah, but I survived a head on with a SEMI.” Puts other issues into scale.

The mistake of DS instead of DB is an easy one. These guys in the pump shops have to rebuild them both, and plenty of others. So a goof up isn’t unheard of. Coming off a runner, this is more likely.

Clean it up and try it is what I would do. You don’t know till ya know- ya know? Then if it has issues you can send it in to have checked out.

I REALLY suggest opening up the military take out. More and more folks getting messed up takeouts now days. Its worth the tube of permatex to pull valve covers and pan at least.
 
Everything looks ship shape on the motor. I pulled oil pan and valve covers to paint them. I’m still going to spend the $$$ to have the pump checked out. Don’t have time to redo after it’s in
 
When you send it to the pump builder, ask about him using a ford tail fitting on it, they are 3/8 inlet instead of 5/16, or drill/ tap while off yourself. even if you don't enlarge the filter outlet right now, the hard part is done and can be done later when you have time.

Also, using hard fittings, put a "T" right at the inlet for fuel pressure gauge. Again plug it for now if you cant do the gauge itself at the moment. I usually do a mechanical gauge, but this time I will do electric and put the sensor on the T, and a second sensor pre filter. then wire through a switch to read ip pressure normally then can flip switch momentarily to see when filter is due for swap. the filter due isn't really important, but knowing incoming pressure is.

Last is use a clear return line coming out of the ip with hose clamps. its 1/4" about 5" long from any hardware store. Have to replace that piece every 3-5 years, but it is a couple dollars and so easy/fast- well worth it for all future diagnostics.

Please let us know who you send it to and pricing/ results of work. knowing several pump builders is always a good thing.
 
Bigger question is a source for new injections lines and the hardware. One vendor sells a complete set for $400 and another for about half of that. Trying to find the rubber isolators used in the brackets is tough unless someone has a better idea ...other than Ford, lol.

I will reuse parts where needed, but a couple of the lines are bent and such. A shame to put effort into making an engine look nice and then reuse crappy looking parts.
 
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